Fingers

Steel cover and roller rockers. No tappy tappy. Only .55 lift though.

I  have never heard of the 3.12.
 
I was replying regarding the 2.53.

I have an XE at the moment that I suspect has one too.
 
Slower than they usually are (though that could be due to the elderly previous owner) and a 4.1 auto sedan without A/C.
 
I will take a photo of the tag next time I'm under it.

According to the parts listing, it was only XE 4.1 auto sedan, without A/C.
That would make it relatively rare as A/C was a very popular option

Some also had 2.53

XH utes got given a domed roof, to increase vehicle head-room inside the cab.
I believe there is a difference.

Thanks
Got sent this from a mate I asked
This seller says roofs are different and won't fit

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Canopy-to-suit-Ford-XD-XE-XF-XG-Falcon-ute-/293869151574?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

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XD/XE/XF/XG have a very square trim around the rear window.

XH has a very rounded trim, I reckon that's the difference.

This is the XH trim
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233767221482

Thanks mate. I can’t wait to have it finished

Love this car
Keep up the good work

Well bit of an update. 
ive been busy, spending an hour or more every day working on the car, and have made good progress. 
 
the engine is finally in its final position, headers bolted up, and other little bits and pieces. 

I got another pair of CORRECT end brackets for the corner bumpers. Now fit and sit much better 

 
These are genuine Ford, original 1600 engine mounts and rubbers. 
 

 
the extractors are definitely close to battery tray
 

 
and a little close to the passenger footwell. Since i took this pic, ive torqued up the engine mounts and extractors, and ive gained a tad more room under the footwell. 
 

 
i fitted the bonnet cable, restored the ID plates and reinstalled them. Used my brother’s sonic cleaner, 4 cycles to get the worst of the crud off them, then a wire brush, and 2 coats of metal polish to get them to look brand new. 
 

 
its the little things that make the difference. I hand cleaned, sanded and polished the cable clips that hold the bonnet cable. 
 

 
and the spring and retaining plate 
 

 
I pulled the bonnet catch apart and cleaned and polished it up as well. 
 

 


Then tonight, I got really carried away and test fitted one of the NOS Hella H4 replacement headlights, and fitted the grill up properly. 
still has
no wiring or globes, and needs some adjustment, but christ im excited by this. 
 

Ok guys, going to do a breakdown of how to tear down an Instrument Cluster and replace the Gears if your Odometer and Trip meter stop working.
This is the base model GL cluster.
 
Most common cause is the gear in the Speedo assembly loses a tooth and gets stuck in one position.
 
Ok, first of all you need to take Surround off of the Instrument cluster/Dash.
 
2 screws on top of dash under small square plastic covers....

2 screws, one each side under the switches for dash light dimmer and under switch for headlights.....

Then there are 2 more, one each side of the steering column that go up into the bottom of the surround.....

Once these screws are out, you can pull the surround forward and disconnect the electrical connectors to the side switches and get it out of the way.
 
Then you will see 2 plastic tabs at the top with screws, remove them.
Then at the bottom there are 2 plastic tabs with screws, remove them.
 
Then carefully roll the Instrument panel forwards as you remove it, so you can disconnect the Smartlock wiring plug, lower left and the 2 black wiring plugs at back of cluster(centre).
After this you can pull the cluster out and set up on a table somewhere.
 
Disassembly.....

 
Ok, to disassemble you need to remove 4 screws on the top that screw the white back to the black front panel....

 
Then remove ALL silver screws from the back panel.....

There are 3 different sizes, so take note of where they are from.
 
Then on the bottom of the cluster, there are 4 black plastic tabs....

These must be pushed down to disengage.
Tip: Start at one side while slightly levering from the centre.
Once all tabs are unlocked very gently lever around the 2 parts and it should come apart....

Put the plastic clear cover to one side.
 
Now you are left with this....

 
Grab the centre section with speedo like so.....

And gently remove.....

 
Remove the two screws in the face plate and invert, being careful not to damage the speedo needle assembly, use the hole it came out to rest it on....

 
Rotate the internals so the circuit board faces towards you.....

 
On the silver round cover there are two screws, remove these and gently remove cover and circuit board and lay down....
 
Then lift gear assembly off....

Flip it over....

 
You will most probably find one broken tooth....

Now the reason this happens is resetting the trip meter while moving.
Reset the Trip meter ONLY when vehicle is stationary.
 
Replace gear, reassemble everything in reverse order of the above breakdown and your done.
 
Please note, this assembly is missing the reset pin that triggers the Trip meter which goes through this hole and attaches via clip to the silver bar....

 
Hope that helps some of you get your Odometer/Trip meters going again.
 
New gears can be sourced on EBay for around $25 a set which is small gear cog and larger black cog, replace both at once.
 
NOS Trip meter reset pins are harder to find and expensive. (Around $50-60).

If you can find an old dead dash with good reset pin, that may be the best option.
 
Cheers.
 
Jack.
 
 
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I also got the LH mirror on as well. 
 
So other than the chrome sill trim, the exterior on the passenger side of the car is finished. 
 

 
Im hoping to have my front seats (Recaros) back in the next couple of weeks, then I can start the interior work. 
 
The interior jobs are all the fiddly annoying stuff 
- stereo wiring
- heater box rebuild
- sound deadening 
- hand brake lever respray
- remove steering column for respray ( need to do before engine bay work) 
 
lots of little fiddly shit

My first thought was, he got another Escort?

Not a fan of the lower plate position for some reason.
 
Looking great

i dont think the xg dash loom would work ,my xf ute was built by a local automotive tafe ,so they used a complete ltd to use as a donor car for all its ltd only parts including complete wiring loom and dash ...so it has trip computer ,cruise control  ,star wars dash , also has complete ltd front ,it even had a brand new efi motor (not rebuilt ) donated by ford with no engine number ever stamped on it . it was a pain to get registered as I had to get a letter from the tafe

In the big scheme of things, pulling the dash to use the XG loom and cluster isn't that big a job

Well the car is back on its wheels and rolling again. 
Its nice to look under the car and everything is clean instead of being caked in over 40 years of dirt 🤢
 

 

 
 
I had a go at fitting the new front corner bumpers. they are brand new reproduction bumpers and brackets. 
 
The side brackets are a bit off, and as confirmed by Mark, they will need to be adjusted in a vice, test fitted, rinse and repeat until happy with the result 😕 
 

 

I pulled the rear suspension out of the car, to find some very very crispy crush tubes inside the rear spring eye bushes, so the point i had to belt them out with a hammer and punch. 
 

 

 
It turns out the front eye bushes and the shackle to chassis bushes are original Ford bushes still!  
 

 
I found part of the original part number on the leaf springs, and then after pressure washing them, i revealed the rest of the part number. 
Im considering stencilling it back on once ive finished doing them up, just to add to the "original" look of the car   
 

 
this is what happens to a free, unknown condition diff is used after being unused for many years 😬
 
LH axle seal has let go. In the future I will be fitting an "english" (mk2) axle, which look like a mini 9" diff. they are a lot stronger and have LSD centres available for them. I can't afford to budget for that conversion right now, so ill just keep an eye on this leak for now, or maybe repair this to keep me going. 
 

 
 

Sofa king good

Sofa king good

🤔
 
Hmmmm........... only an hour away, (checks bank balance)
 
 
 

Gerg is right, Vizard is a head working legend.
When you get right into his head work you realize HOW smart he is.
He was into 2L pinto motors in the 70's.

It's not all about just grinding stuff out, any dill with a die grinder can go that... And muff it up.

It's about the approach angle of air and velocity at the back of the valve.
Sometimes metal or resin is added to the port to change the approach angle of the air.
Then you want to go further its valve relocation. That's how it's done properly.

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David Vizard has been a prominent author of performance books since the 70s and is a successful race engine builder and performance guru. He's been around since before aftermarket parts were a thing so knows how to squeeze every last bit of performance out of factory parts while at minimal cost.

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