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i am doing the sohc into xf conversion , i know its been done heaps of times .  but there's so much conflicting info on it .  i want to still run the  efi with the least amount of wiring... my car is efi already ,  is the ea2 passenger side wiring loom the easiest with btr loom,  or use el passenger side loom , or modify the xg loom, for engine and btr functions only as the xg loom circles the engine bay. i have an xg witch i thought would have been perfect until i had a good look at the computer loom and realised that it circles the engine bay and dash. all i want to do is run the el computer with btr and then join the engine loom to the 8 pin plug under the brake booster ....i don't want to have to pull the whole dash out to fit the xg wiring . just need to know if I am on the right track  or am i over thinking it ...hope this makes sense 

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3 hours ago, damo9999 said:

i am doing the sohc into xf conversion , i know its been done heaps of times .  but there's so much conflicting info on it .  i want to still run the  efi with the least amount of wiring... my car is efi already ,  is the ea2 passenger side wiring loom the easiest with btr loom,  or use el passenger side loom , or modify the xg loom, for engine and btr functions only as the xg loom circles the engine bay. i have an xg witch i thought would have been perfect until i had a good look at the computer loom and realised that it circles the engine bay and dash. all i want to do is run the el computer with btr and then join the engine loom to the 8 pin plug under the brake booster ....i don't want to have to pull the whole dash out to fit the xg wiring . just need to know if I am on the right track  or am i over thinking it ...hope this makes sense 

 

@Panko re pinned the factory plug on his ghia wagon to accept the EL ecu to run on his crossflow, so that may be another option if you are up for a different kind of challenge. 
(link to approximately where it was running off it on the crossflow with issues)

 

there is smart lock on the EL computer to deal with, and has the XG got smart lock?  

smart lock would be an issue stopping you from just a simple plug in unless looking into running a J3 chip. 

 

i don't have any more than that, hopefully a few more members chip in with more. 

 

 

 

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Maybe go a carb mate. You can run a carb in an xf as they came out with them.

Then theres no wiring probs.

Good manifold (Aussiespeed) and a nice carb around 450cfm, 600 holley is a lil large.

ECUs, wiring, sensors suck, can chase your tail.

Good carby set up on a 4L....sound tits and you can go larger cams and only change is springs, retainers etc.....no chips, no retuning the motor for changes. Just need a carby fuel pump and reg.

Use a Carter Gold series pump and Malpassi fuel reg set up.

 

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i would never go carby and by the time you buy maifold /carby you can buy 3 microsquirts,,, and i am running a btr .. wiring isnt a problem ,i have wired my 2 other cars with megasquirt and microsquirt computers...just trying to find out the best way of going about the standard ford el computer 

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Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller

Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu

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i have read somewhere that the ea2 engine / gearbox loom (and only ea2 as its the first of the 4 speeds and non smart lock) is a stand alone loom and then all you connect is the white 8 pin plug under the brake booster ....  but i cant find any wiring diagrams or any other info on this method ,all wiring diagrams i have found start at eb2 on , nothing earlier,           i have read panko;s thread ,and do like the way he has done the el computer to crossflow , but the same wiring will work with a 4litre ,then its the extra wires for the btr..............i have spoken to bill hooton about the barra computor and loom but he doesnt really like doing them and he is pretty much booked out for the next 6 months

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i have read somewhere that the ea2 engine / gearbox loom (and only ea2 as its the first of the 4 speeds and non smart lock) is a stand alone loom and then all you connect is the white 8 pin plug under the brake booster ....  but i cant find any wiring diagrams or any other info on this method ,all wiring diagrams i have found start at eb2 on , nothing earlier,           i have read panko;s thread ,and do like the way he has done the el computer to crossflow , but the same wiring will work with a 4litre ,then its the extra wires for the btr..............i have spoken to bill hooton about the barra computor and loom but he doesnt really like doing them and he is pretty much booked out for the next 6 months


I'm sure your correct on ea 2 being a stand alone loom, it would make sense as during ea/eb they made some pretty big changes so having the loom being separated makes sense, one thing with ea-eb looms is they had a separate trans controller and trans loom like the 5.0l did up until au, and while my memory is a bit foggy on some of this stuff (its probably been 15 years since i played around with any ea/eb's) I'm pretty sure that when smartlock was introduced the tcu was integrated into the ecu, if you use an ecu that is smartlock equipped it doesn't matter if you've used a smartlock loom or not the ecu has to have smartlock turned off for it to work

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Has anyone tried just using the pinouts on the ecu and running the ecu as a stand alone unit?
Pre smartlock ecu are cheap and everybody is after EL ecus for chipping.


The EL ecu I have played with as well, bit faster processing, can plug a j3 in (which tuners HATE because to affect changes to the j3 chip for tuning, it has to be unplugged, programmed and replaced, tuners do stuff on the dyno in REAL time.)
To tell you the truth runs better with less probs on a standard XH ecu, which is EL without all the fruit, but still has Fartlock.


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i am looking at just using my existing efi wiring and adding the extra wires in. i will be using the el computer ,as i want to run the bbm manifold .i won't be using a j3 chip ,i will use one of the smart lock boxes from ebay, as the motor is a stock el xr6 motor .then all i have to do is wire up the btr witch is 9 or 10 extra wires

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You got an EL XR6 ecu? If so your lucky.
Rare as rocking horse shite. I got one in my box here. 6TAC.
You might need-, MAP sensor, usually on body behind coolant tank on XG or similiar spot on E series,, just because xf run a MAF set up.
Pin outs are on ECU , so easy peasy.




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23 minutes ago, Fingers said:

In the big scheme of things, pulling the dash to use the XG loom and cluster isn't that big a job

also a good opportunity to check/replace the 30yr old heater core also and the sealing foam where the heater box meets the dash etc

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15 hours ago, deankdx said:

also a good opportunity to check/replace the 30yr old heater core also and the sealing foam where the heater box meets the dash etc

i dont think the xg dash loom would work ,my xf ute was built by a local automotive tafe ,so they used a complete ltd to use as a donor car for all its ltd only parts including complete wiring loom and dash ...so it has trip computer ,cruise control  ,star wars dash , also has complete ltd front ,it even had a brand new efi motor (not rebuilt ) donated by ford with no engine number ever stamped on it . it was a pain to get registered as I had to get a letter from the tafe

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2 hours ago, damo9999 said:

so they used a complete ltd to use as a donor car for all its ltd only parts including complete wiring loom and dash

 

Cool but annoying. 

Yeah there's a lot more wires going on in those dashes with cruise control and climate control etc.

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, damo9999 said:

i dont think the xg dash loom would work ,my xf ute was built by a local automotive tafe ,so they used a complete ltd to use as a donor car for all its ltd only parts including complete wiring loom and dash ...so it has trip computer ,cruise control  ,star wars dash , also has complete ltd front ,it even had a brand new efi motor (not rebuilt ) donated by ford with no engine number ever stamped on it . it was a pain to get registered as I had to get a letter from the tafe

Yeah, that changes things

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does anyone know the wiring of the o2 sensor in an el falcon .              1 wire goes to pin 29 on the computer ..wiring colours are  2 x white wire  1 x  black wire ,,,, then on the el wiring side (on the other side of the plug ) its  black /yellow stripe  , green / black stripe , straight  green  wire ......    witch one goes to pin 29 ,  then does earth go to sensor ground or battery ground , and third wire must be posative................   thanks ................... i can't find any wiring diagrams anywhere 

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i made a mistake on the wiring colours for the o2 sensor..    i found this 

Heater positive - Grey/Yellow stripe

Heater negative - Black/Dark Green stripe

Sensor signal - Dark Green/Dark Blue stripe........      on pankos thread  ,and its the colours i have as well ......   i am still not sure if ground goes to battery ground , or sensor ground .

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i have started to go through the wiring loom and taken out anything i didn't need ..i have also labelled every wire on my pinout chart .. i am going to replace the engine loom only ,, so hopefully I don't have to pull out the whole dash ,and can get away with only pulling out the glovebox , but I don't like my chances............ the engine is a el xr6 , with extractors , i am thinking about going to a log manifold ...as there is no room under a bbm manifold for a dissy (or only just ) ..the log has a bit more room under it 

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8 minutes ago, damo9999 said:

i am thinking about going to a log manifold ...as there is no room under a bbm manifold for a dissy (or only just )

the EL falcon had the BBM and a dissy. 

 

if you need to remove the dash, it can be removed 90% complete, it was under heater core replacement in the Gregory's manual.

there's a write up on here but i can't find it right now. 

 

basically what you need to remove is the radio (due to the antenna lead plugging into the back) and any aftermarket wiring that's been connected (alarm, speaker wires etc) 

and before doing much else unscrewing the cable off the heater box behind the glovebox for the blend door(screen/feet etc lever) and unplug the fan wires from dash to heater box soon as you can access them. 

 

I've seen Dash's pulled down to near nothing while still in the car and it's not necessary 

 

you may be able to just swing it out a little, by undoing the 2 bolts behind the front of the console, and the 2 bolts that go into the A pillars roughly near the door light switches but there's 5 screws under the winsdcreen vents so you can't go too far out due to it being curved or it will break the mounts(perhaps removing the 3 screws on the left side of the screen area would be enough

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, deankdx said:

the EL falcon had the BBM and a dissy. 

 

if you need to remove the dash, it can be removed 90% complete, it was under heater core replacement in the Gregory's manual.

there's a write up on here but i can't find it right now. 

 

basically what you need to remove is the radio (due to the antenna lead plugging into the back) and any aftermarket wiring that's been connected (alarm, speaker wires etc) 

and before doing much else unscrewing the cable off the heater box behind the glovebox for the blend door(screen/feet etc lever) and unplug the fan wires from dash to heater box soon as you can access them. 

 

I've seen Dash's pulled down to near nothing while still in the car and it's not necessary 

 

you may be able to just swing it out a little, by undoing the 2 bolts behind the front of the console, and the 2 bolts that go into the A pillars roughly near the door light switches but there's 5 screws under the winsdcreen vents so you can't go too far out due to it being curved or it will break the mounts(perhaps removing the 3 screws on the left side of the screen area would be enough

 

 

 

i know that the el had the bbm and dissy , did they use a different dissy cap than the ed ,because if you have to change leads with the bbm, you will have to take the manifold completely off....   with the dash if it has to come out , i was going to try and just try and just move the passenger side out just a bit ,enough to get the wires behind it 

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2 minutes ago, damo9999 said:

i know that the el had the bbm and dissy , did they use a different dissy cap than the ed ,because if you have to change leads with the bbm, you will have to take the manifold completely off.

i couldn't tell you if it's different to ED,  but i'd be surprised if it was. 

 

@Thom could probably confirm it easily, he's our 4.0 expert I believe

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On 7/20/2022 at 11:04 AM, damo9999 said:

i made a mistake on the wiring colours for the o2 sensor..    i found this 

Heater positive - Grey/Yellow stripe

Heater negative - Black/Dark Green stripe

Sensor signal - Dark Green/Dark Blue stripe........      on pankos thread  ,and its the colours i have as well ......   i am still not sure if ground goes to battery ground , or sensor ground .

i just found the answer to my o2 ground question .  pin 49 on the computer is a dedicated 02 ground 

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9 minutes ago, deankdx said:

i couldn't tell you if it's different to ED,  but i'd be surprised if it was. 

 

@Thom could probably confirm it easily, he's our 4.0 expert I believe

i wouldn't have thought  they would be different as well , but after looking at how the leads are hard up against the bottom of the manifold ,there just might be 2 different heights in dissy caps.     i might go to repco tomorrow and ask 

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