LJDB

Someone may have changed them, in later 4.0 xr6 have a red/orange stripe one them. 94/95 dt's have a smaller combustion chamber, larger exhaust valves revised intake ports and a higher duration but similar lift cam

I'm going to check the cams with a dial indicator but checking with a cheap vernier they are very close lift wise. After a clean the 92dt head has a smaller chamber, il cc them at some stage to confirm. Port wise they look very different. I suspect the larger port would suit boost better. Valve springs on tickford head are not painted and visually look the same.

92dt is about the only head I haven't seen in person, I can say the 94da is the pick of the non tickford e series heads

Crossys are imperial, E-series are metric , so no go sorry mate

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No it isn't. Its a general gauge of 6 pipes together. Each cyl can run 4points difference. Think about that.
 
Heat signature on the earth strap,colour and condition on top of the body before the threads.Colouring on the porcelin. But reading em has to be done with new plugs and directly after a WOT pull with no idle time.

Hi mate, the seals float with the valve stems. These ones will look like little rubber collars with metal band keeping them on the stem, yeah?
 
If they're still present and not cracked then they should be fine.
 
You can also use standard umbrella type seals, they come in a topend gasket kit for about 60 bucks total.

Turbos are odd things and Im not on board my self but Dans LS Centura with Chinee turbo but sized right has ZERO lag. Like powerskids from idle to max rpm in top long as you can from a standing start like your doing a brake skid.
 
Get the exhuast on the smaller side and it will still make the hp and make it such a better deal...IMO based on stuff that actually works on real cars not internet talk. 

Compression won't kill a engine,tune will. Barras and 2js run over 10 comp. Need to talk to people who build other engines not just xflows to go forward. Or be stuck with a VHS player if you get my drift.
 
Aus fastest RBs run more comp than you think too. My xflow runs 11.2 comp and has seen 10psi @ 7500rpm with a big cam and big cyl head. On a small or stock headed combo with a small cam it would show ALOT more boost but wouldn't make the same hp.Boost is only a measurement of inlet restriction after all. So a bigger head with less restriction means it shows less boost but makes more hp and you use more comp which means little to no lag time if turbo is sized right. 

It's really down to the individual builder.  As with most things in engine building everyone has there own theories of what works and what doesn't. 
The biggest deck height I'd ever have on an engine would be .010 with zero being the norm. I prefer a slight dished piston over a flat top, but sometimes you need a flat top. Chamber shape can be modified to assist in relieving comp. 
 
i guess it just comes down to the builders own theories and experience. 

sounds good, i've bought a few clutches from Mike there. 
mike also burned BGDAV though with a master cyl, told Dave it's the same one he has on his XE(was an XF one he sent) would not refund or swap it.. was a proper cunt.. 
so mixed feelings about dealing with him after that. 

Hi guys, does anyone know if there is a difference a single rail throw out bearing and a t5. Early single rail clutch kits come with a seperate bearing and the t5 style has a bearing and retainer clip all in one.
Problem im having is minimal freeplay at the fork. I have backed the cable right off but if i push on the fork away from the clutch is hardly moves as if the throw out bearing is to wide. Google hasnt come up with much. The car drives fine but im getting slip if i give it a hard time. Its an extreme cusion button clutch and should be capable.

As for fuel system, something like a fitech fuel commander would be easy. Easy to rig something up with the same principles. Although a small surge tank is fairly simple to set up. Better to do it correct from the start

Wouldnt the sniper kit allow the tuner to select a targeted a/f ratio. This will make the tune safe but not ideal for all out power. Set the a/f so the leanest cylinders are safe going off plug readings? Covers the uneven cylinder flow. Iv done something similar on my efi set up with xf banana manifold but mines turbo so rich is good for me.

With my o2 sensor in closed loop my cruise driveabilty is poor. The ecu is constantly altering the a/f and varies quite abit depending on temps. I also have low comp and mildish na camshaft which doesnt help. 
Before my current setup i changed from a redline 4bbl manifold to aussiespeed and they are definitely a better manifold. I agree that its the way to go but it can be made to work for now.

My exact point. If you follow the guidelines and target 12.8 you could burn a cylinder with the Redline. Modify it to 12.0 and watch 1&6 in particular and you would be on a winner. But if your spending the coin to have a nice cruiser, why not spend the coin on a manifold with even flow-balance. It's not all about making hp&torque although that is good. It's about making a happy engine. Happy engines make more power and torque and use less fuel to do it. That makes for a good cruiser in my opinion. 
The gain most experience when going to triples is largely due to even cylinder fill.  

Wouldnt the sniper kit allow the tuner to select a targeted a/f ratio. This will make the tune safe but not ideal for all out power. Set the a/f so the leanest cylinders are safe going off plug readings? Covers the uneven cylinder flow. Iv done something similar on my efi set up with xf banana manifold but mines turbo so rich is good for me.

Afm has like a trap door inside that can jam shut. Have alook at that.
Have u checked spark. Have they actually confirmed it getting to much fuel? (Wet plugs). People love to jump to conclusions and miss the basics. 

Afm has like a trap door inside that can jam shut. Have alook at that.
Have u checked spark. Have they actually confirmed it getting to much fuel? (Wet plugs). People love to jump to conclusions and miss the basics. 

Back when mine was still M90 I blew a couple of pistons similar to what another guy did on here recently with his turbo xflow.
The motor that blew had 28cc Precision Hyperectic pistons, crow cam, roller rockers, main and head studs, hardened push rods, ported E1 head, decked block, shot peened rods and whatever else I have forgotten about, it now sits in the corner of my shed waiting for me to do something with it.
It blew just before Powercruise 2012, so I put a 100% stock low Km EFI E2 head motor in and bolted the M90 supercharger and bits to it, and bugger me it went better than the one that blew, that is why the stuffed one is still sitting in the corner.
I have since changed to the M112 and the stock motor is still going fine, it had me worried on New Years Day when it did not want to run, it turns out 2 MSD leads were stuffed, it was fine the day before.
A few years back I contacted Camtech about a custom cam for when I rebuild the stuffed motor, and I seem to recall the cam had a 114 lobe centre.

Rnd 2 starting shorty. Just finished putting in a used 86da, .030 22cc ACL duralite pistons, backyard ported open Chamber xe efi head. Comp is around 9.1-9.2 with a different NA cam with more overlap. Hooked up the knock sensor into the front head bolt the same a late efi Xf. Il take it easy with this one till the tune is fat as I want it to last the summer.

Rnd 2 starting shorty. Just finished putting in a used 86da, .030 22cc ACL duralite pistons, backyard ported open Chamber xe efi head. Comp is around 9.1-9.2 with a different NA cam with more overlap. Hooked up the knock sensor into the front head bolt the same a late efi Xf. Il take it easy with this one till the tune is fat as I want it to last the summer.

Rnd 2 starting shorty. Just finished putting in a used 86da, .030 22cc ACL duralite pistons, backyard ported open Chamber xe efi head. Comp is around 9.1-9.2 with a different NA cam with more overlap. Hooked up the knock sensor into the front head bolt the same a late efi Xf. Il take it easy with this one till the tune is fat as I want it to last the summer.

Up for sale?

Learn from it and build it up again.
 
love the honesty mate too can be hard to admit a times

This log is from early on when i first got the data logger working. As i said i was in the process of fattening it up when coming on boost. Id say the damage was already done. The base tune was already in the chip and apart from maybe twice there was no audible pinging. I suppose me being impatient and not waiting till i could log a/f to give it a thrashing wouldnt have helped the process.