'Nova

I sell them for $60 a set normally, some wankers want heaps more obviously.
 
If I had a pair they would be yours for postage but I don't unfortunately.
 
Check out ebay.
 
You should be able to unplug them for now and just open it manually.

Hey nova.
Dads EF does this aswell. He had it checked out and the sparky told him "it was the drivers door actuator that was ka-put"
He never got it fixed and now they don't work at all.
I believe it to be common with E series cars.

SLO is on the money ,it will be a locking solenoid 

yeah it is $90 a week gets me to work and back so thats all i put in it
 
 
yeah it likes 98 i dont mind goes sweet as is so no point changing it.

Thanks for the replies fellas. My coolant is good flushed it and filled it last week(after this problem started) i am unsure what the system is il go have a look. I had it tuned properly recently and for a month it was fine.
 
I think it might be wax build up.
 
Nova i didnt realise (or forgot) your panno was on Gas. Imagine how good it would be at Vic prices. Or at the price Australia sells it to china at!!!

(From my thread on xfalcon)...
So - the Process.

1.   Get Diagnostic Panel out.   No pictures of this part, but to summarise :
    a.   put downward pressure on the panel cover, and pull out at the bottom.   Then unclip the cover from the top.
    b.   Undo the 3 screws holding the panel in.    The Manual says these are torx, however mine were phillips.
    c.   Remove the unit, and unplug the connector.
1a.  if your going for a quick fix, simply bridge the two Green/Red stripe wires here with a quickcrimp.   The brake light warning will come on when the brakes are on, however the brakes will work.

1b.   Lets do the fix in the unit.


2.   Undo the 5 screws holding the cover panel on and remove the cover panel


3.   Undo the 2 screws holding the Switch frame on and remove the frame


4.   Undo the two screws at the back where the connector is (no pic sorry)

5.   Gently pull the assembly out.  It may be quite tight.  I used a screwdriver to gently lever the PCB stands (black plastic things) at each end.   I also pushed gently at the connector.


6.   The issue is this resistor load pack just above the connector.  mine has a brown mark on it where it has failed.


7.   There are two Large pads there that can be used to bridge the circuit.    

Clean the coating off the pad - I used a knife


8.   Join the Pads.   Ive used some solid 240v power cable here....


9.   Finished product.


9a.   I didnt think to do this, however you should probably remove the brake Fail lamp.
In this picture, its the top left lamp in the cluster of 5.   Just remove the holder


10.   Reassemble the unit.
11.   Reinstall.
12.   Enjoy working brake lights.   Remember to rewire the trailer connector if you have one.

Got anything positive to say about other people's opinions and ideas?

That's a tight fit!
 
Fucking hot though!

So I've read this before and thought I'd already commented, obviously I hadn't!
 
My dad had one, we sold it last year to a young girl for her first car!
 
His was the reverse colour of yours!
 

 
Will always have a soft spot for this! One of my good mates ZGMitch302 still has his first one! Bright orange 250, 4 speed wagon!
 
Anyways, just thought I'd show some affection!

I'll kick off first post in this new section.
 
Recently this fella dropped a FG donk into his TD Corty.
 
 
 
 

 

Got anything positive to say about other people's opinions and ideas?

Pretty sure Tyler06's last engine was somewhere around 270rwhp.

Got anything positive to say about other people's opinions and ideas?

Got anything positive to say about other people's opinions and ideas?

I brought my stuff from Charles in act . It was simple but had massive travel up and down . Air rides not worth it IMO and at the end of the day you can't drive bags low. And who wants to drive around high . I removed the bags went back to springs went lower than I did with bags in the back . But all the time. I could make another kit like mine was if I had interest.

when i worked at a ford dealer up here we left them connected,never seemed to bother the coils  
 
also the time it takes to relearn is 45 mins ,nice mod by the way!

Hey Aussie, tell us more about the Anglia, got a link to a build thread?
I checked your website but couldn't find anything.

carb there is already efi stuff on the market

Nothing wrong with a ea t5,mate has one behind his worked 351 clevo.Also got another mate with a turboed EB 4L makes around 400hp at the wheels and still on the same old EA t5 box when he did his manual conversion.The T5's are rated at 300hp and also depends how you drive it.

I'll check those solenoids then, maybe that'll fix it properly.

Like I thought...

Sure was!
 
Just advised him it wouldn't hurt to have another one

Sure was!
 
Just advised him it wouldn't hurt to have another one

Ah ok Alec would have done it for sure.

pretty sure the xf and ea box are the same, eb2 onwards are the same but I could be wrong been a while since I read up on it.
 
why not go a lower diff ratio if you don't like manual? get a 3.08 from a eseries?