mcfly94

sometimes I wish I went the 6530 over just the street fire cdi
 
However I went CDI Street Fire CDI, MSD Blaster 3 and TFI running module (new rotor, new cap, and real good clean), the spark increase was insane!, car idles so much smoother, better fuel burn, and im actually getting an extra 100kms to a tank, on a rough tune.
 
Only issue is sometimes its hard to start, but I think that's down to my piss ant power cables, will soon be sorted by some 50mm2 cable! (0awg for those don't know)

only fit series 1 

sometimes I wish I went the 6530 over just the street fire cdi
 
However I went CDI Street Fire CDI, MSD Blaster 3 and TFI running module (new rotor, new cap, and real good clean), the spark increase was insane!, car idles so much smoother, better fuel burn, and im actually getting an extra 100kms to a tank, on a rough tune.
 
Only issue is sometimes its hard to start, but I think that's down to my piss ant power cables, will soon be sorted by some 50mm2 cable! (0awg for those don't know)

Measured is proof and TBH a 12 sec EFI NAT ASP stock cubed Weezor would be doing very well in a car thats around 1550kg @ lightest. E303 is not enough cam shaft for that engine IMO to run 12's in a Falcon unless it has been on a diet and alloy heads and trick EFI or Airgap and carb with very suitable auto and gearing.
 
But very happy to be wrong.

Annnnnnnnnd they still get smoked by a stock NAT ASP FG XR6. My 2003 5.0L ute has zorst filter tune (if you would belive the sticker in the bay...LOL) and my FG rapes it.
 
The little Windsor may sounds the goods but she don't deliver without some REAL work.
 
If I was to do 1 I would not waste a single cent on GT40 heads...even if free I wouldn't use em.Straight for ally Edelbrock heads cos there cheap and work well.The higher rockers show they want some more lift = bigger lift cam with suitable duration.Can't go to big as they have P/V issues. I'd modify the extractors for longer secondary's and a x pipe with a twin 2.5" or 3" and single muffler with twin in twin out @ the rear. Correct stall and shorter gears to suit combo and get it tuned.
 
That was without touching the bottom end.If I did it properly I'd use a Scat stroker bottom end,proper balancer and some CHI heads...Just saying

a tune fixes all that... they go pretty well after that, most see around the 200rwkw mark.

Au3 got 70mm throttle body, minor flow work on gt40p heads, yella terra 1.7 ratio rockers.
The 220kw is the equivalant of the Crow 621339
Valve Timing
IN.16/72
EX.75/20
DUR in.268 ex.275
.050"  in.203 ex.209
List - .455" .455"
Range - 1500 5000 
 
the 200kw got a bigger cam with a lower 1.6 ratio rocker by crane cams, on the 220 the 1.7 brought the 450 up to 470ish
this is all the info ive found from the net.
and dont forget the comp ratio was upped from the 185kw motor from 9.1 to 9.4 in the 200 and 220.

Excellent, I'm very confident that the re-learn procedure (step-by-step above) will fix your issue.
 
Let us know!

I just did a full exhaust on mine, reset on the battery.
2min in neutral no air con
2min in neutral air con
2min drive no air con
2min drive air con
took it for a blast
but idling just under 600rpm in drive, its dropped about 25rpm.
I think I may need my idle bumping up slightly due to the ph4480 and 2.5 exhaust, don't know yet as it could also be my fuel pump.
 
Clean your throttle body and iac, and reset the kams and see how you go.

Yeah I'd definitely go the xr's

If you've got an ef diff youll have to do some modifying to accompany the ef/el handbrake to suit the x-series, ea-ed handbrake style. Cant remember, but I think its like adding brackets or something on the diff or car.
Easier if you have an eb-ed diff as you just use the rear section of the handbrake from an eb/ed.
Tailshaft goes straight in.

awesome, thats pretty bloody good fuel economy for a xflow
 
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk

For a stock 250 (larger valves, extractors, 2.5" straight through) I ran 28* locked timing through street fire cdi, superconductor msd leads, msd blaster 3 coil and TFI dizzy with module.
Ran AFR about 14.3:1 through the standard webber.
Ran very well started as soon as I turned the key (AU Starter, 0GA Earth for Engine and Battery, 575cca Battery) and felt more responsive and felt it had more torque through the rev range, also returned 500km to 57 litre tank for town driving with 3.27 rear gears and c4.

For a stock 250 (larger valves, extractors, 2.5" straight through) I ran 28* locked timing through street fire cdi, superconductor msd leads, msd blaster 3 coil and TFI dizzy with module.
Ran AFR about 14.3:1 through the standard webber.
Ran very well started as soon as I turned the key (AU Starter, 0GA Earth for Engine and Battery, 575cca Battery) and felt more responsive and felt it had more torque through the rev range, also returned 500km to 57 litre tank for town driving with 3.27 rear gears and c4.

trw is probably the best on the market.
hence there a bit dearer

if your in Adelaide I can sell you a full 2.5 system ready to bolt on for $200, includes tri-y extractors with wb02 bung and 2.5 collector then a full press bent 2.5 system with a single reverse flow muffler, suit xe/xf coil sedan, real good condition and save you some $$$$$

I'd prob just put a series 1 back in it, save all the trouble. i would say it would end up not working like the ef's have the different colour boxes, i would think au would be the same

When a member of wes caliber is banned I understand it will leave shockwaves for a while,it's been long enough.
 
He's started a fight in a turbo thread and he isn't even here lol.
 
Enough though,only gay dudes fight over hair driers.

Whats the budget. Go a clevo and box.

"Aluminium Hi Sparkle" is the brightest ive seen so far

Hey guys. I've got a set of bf xr6 rims that I've fixed a heap of gutter rash and scuff marks on. Just wondering what silver/alloy color paint people use when they're respraying or touching them up. I've got them all prepped and ready to paint but the silvers I have are just too silver or bright to match the original paint. Cheers.

Megasquirt for the win mate, you can get a MS1 kit ready to wire in for around $400 and then the tuning is limitless as you control everything. Im upgrading to a MS3X when i get my new ute up and running and they can be had for under a grand ready to wire up.

I'd be adding a heap of internal bracing to that box it's very thin walled and will flex like crazy, also being MDF you'll need to completely seal it inside, MDF is about as air tight as a fly screen door.
Good work though it will look good once carpeted.

My understanding is cracks and pops under deceleration is caused by a lean condition?

bud your sub box is supposed to be matched with your sub, not the box matched with the car.
Figure out the required volume for your sub and work out your dimensions given that your going to have a max height on the sub box due to the shallow x-series boot!