bear351c

Yep, what Rev said. Nolathene will last 4 times longer, but, with that strength you get harshness. Use Nolathene on the hardest wearing parts, like sway bar links.
As you've stated, your car is now firm and corners on rails, but, all the screws will fall out of your dash in 12 months. . . . .
 
(King springs are 15% firmer than standard springs, no matter what height)

Yep, what Rev said. Nolathene will last 4 times longer, but, with that strength you get harshness. Use Nolathene on the hardest wearing parts, like sway bar links.
As you've stated, your car is now firm and corners on rails, but, all the screws will fall out of your dash in 12 months. . . . .
 
(King springs are 15% firmer than standard springs, no matter what height)

Id get rid of half that nolathane to.
Replace it with the standard Kelpro gear.

Yeah, engine out. Mate did his clevo in an XC, Pain in the arse, to get the half moon rubbers to seal.
 
Farken hate oil drips on my driveway. ! ! ! !

I wish my shed was tall enough for a hoist<br />

,lol ,i spent many years groveling around on a floor under many an x series coupe ,etc ,pussy ,right in your eyes ,
things change hoists make life a lot easier ,im not 16 anymore ,closer to 50 ,and if anything ,learning from my past ,taught me brains over stupidity ,works everytime ,so you lay on your cold concrete or muddy driveway while i stand up straight and stay warm dry ,
enjoy ,life i do !

Change your oil.

LED's these days...man.  Fucking burn my eyes and illuminate the back of my skull that much I can feel it on the back of my neck.

Nolathene will last 3 times longer, but gives a harsher ride. Standard (neoprene) rubbers are a lot more compliant. For everyday use I'd say go standard, but, if you corner on rails............Nolathene. Unfortunately, the double wishbone suspension chews up rubbers, mainly due to the wonderful conditions of our roads.
 
Dont get me started.

dw i bend mine all the time, pull them out, put them in a vice and vwoalla, more 6500rpm abuse
nah seriously get hardened ones.

Xw/xy GA or xr/xt gt or mercury cyclone

im going to run straight lpg on my 351 xe just so over the bullshit price of petrol,

If the base of the lifter is cactus, so is the lobe on the cam........

I run twin gas research on my 351c with centrifugal blower. max boost 9 psi. single lockoff, single line to 't' piece spit to each side. I was worried it would run way too lean. took it to a gas tuner with experience performance gas tuning. they dyno tuned it, check the mixtures adjusted the timing abit and said it was fine. i said are you sure? they said i could boost it more and it was very confortable. made just over 300hp at the wheels.

put a dobb of grease on the bearings to hold them in place

It would work, it just wouldn't make the same amount of power

Purely suggested it to give a visual guide to work with, no mistake can be made if you can see the valve positions.

I guess it's a cost factor, but, going to Springworks or Pedders and get an extra leaf put in, and have them reset lower, is an option.

Shit,...I thought I was on a different website for a minute. 

Very good question...the shit does get everywhere...but I have given it some thought. You have to recycle...the blast media costs around $30 a bag. Two approaches : Firstly, for bits I can remove from the car (say about as big as a bonnet) I thought I might create a box-frame-thing that I can line with plastic and walk into. Theoretically you'd just sweep up the media as it would be contained within the plasticated frame. Ya just run it through a kitchen sieve into a bucket and that removes the chunks of crap from the media - ready for re-use. Secondly - for the chassis I'd simply drop sheet plastic around the car to prevent its escape - like a shower curtain but weighted at the bottom.  Start with a clean floor and then sweep the stuff up after blasting and filter with the sieve.
 
Funny story...I'm always finding innovative new functions for kitchen objects outside the kitchen...in my lab. The missus loves finding her stuff gooped up with some form of car muck. Why...just today she found a sieve of hers buried in a mix of garnet abrasive, dirt and crusted off body deadener. I knew it was wrong to use it...but I couldn't help myself

Hi Y'all
 
 
Firstly...don't you hate how one project leads to another? I'm about to start restoring my XA Falcon.Here she is:
 

 
One thing your seventies model Falcon are good at..apart from stunning good looks and the creation of vast clouds of greenhouse gas..is the creation of rust. How to remove it? Well obviously you can cut it out and weld in new bits. I anticipate a bit of that. Then there's surface corrosion or cleaning up the bits you wanna weld. There's a number of methods. I happen to like abrasive blasting. I used to work for a long departed airline and used to regularly avail myself of their abrasive blasting facilities. I liked how this method cleans up metal and keys the substrate nicely for whatever you want to do later. it's my method of choice for removing a lotta different things.
 
I coulda outsourced the work, but ain't DIY a bitch? I can't bring myself to pay a guy to do it. There's paying the guy...and then there's the quality control issues. Am I going to like the job he does? Often enough I'm happy with the stuff people do when I outsource (anything) but there's also the flipside...when you feel as though you've been screwed by the guy you've paid.
 
So in anticipation of my project I bought this :
 

 
170 odd bucks off Ebay...along with a bag of garnet to spray around with it.
 
I ran it off my 12 cfm McMillan compressor...which upon calculation was putting out about 8.2cfm of free air. Did a passable job, but I could see it being good for only small jobs. Abrasive blasting is an intensive consumer of air. I'd have a bit of a squirt and the blasting tank would be exhausted of air pressure...I'd wait a number of minutes for the tank to recharge and have another squirt. It'd take ages to to do a panel for example...let alone a floor pan which is my ultimate goal.
 
I thought I'd hitch a number of compressors to the blasting pot. You can get one big motherfucker Chinese compressor pumping (apparently) 30 cfm FAD for arounf $1400 on Ebay. But then, it's Chinese and while their stuff is usually passable...you really don't know what you're buying. Or...you can string a bunch of smaller compressors together to achieve a similar outcome.
 
This is what I'm doing.
 

 
I''ve got the 8.2 cfm FAD compressor running off the 10 amp household circuit....I bought a bigger 17cfm (calculated 11.2 cfm FAD) compressor for the 15amp circuit I have off Ebay...and the results are fucking great. I'll post a video if possible. Tonight, I'm picking up a petrol driven compressor (again, off Ebay) that pumps a claimed 10.2 cfm FAD. All bases covered..I'll have that bitch (XA) naked in no time!
 
The beauty of the set-up is I can off load compressors when they're no longer required. Quality Australian made ones..not Chinese-made landfill. I wont be stuck with a 42cfm beast with little guarantee of serviceability or reliability.
 
So...this has become a project within a project. And I will  probably spend more than what it costs for someone else to do it. At least I can do it when I want...at a quality level I'm happy with...I'll update on my findings as time goes on...
 
 
 
 
 

Shit,...I thought I was on a different website for a minute. 

Note : Dont use Silastic to fix the windscreen. It contains Acetic acid, which will cause "fog" on the glass. Use the corrct Black Mastic stuff, should stay tacky for about 125 years.........and cannot be removed from the skin.   :D  

Note : Dont use Silastic to fix the windscreen. It contains Acetic acid, which will cause "fog" on the glass. Use the corrct Black Mastic stuff, should stay tacky for about 125 years.........and cannot be removed from the skin.   :D  

Not an auto expert, but it sounds like a piston seal on the reverse servo is getting a bit leaky. When the fluid is cold and thick, the seal leaks less so you get more fluid actually pushing on the piston, thus quicker engagement. When it's hot, the fluid has thinned out so the piston leaks more and the piston stroke takes longer.
 
If you don't mind doing a full overhaul down the track, try some automatic transmission conditioner. It contains chemicals that cause your old and hard/shrunken seals to swell up and seal again, but doing this is a one-way trip. It's because the seals swell so much that you'll have to replace the whole lot of them if you pull the box down, as you'll never get them back into the piston/servo again. Sounds bad but let's face it, to pull a box down to do one seal and not completely overhaul it is just silly anyway.