bear351c

Mate, if you buy bolts, they will spin in the seat rails, because they're hex head. The originals are square head, so they jam tight in the rails, and you can get under the car and tighten them. Otherwise it's a 2 man job.
.....or tack weld them into the rails. Sorry, can't help with the sizes. Make sure the nuts are pressing against a 'plate or washer' on the underside of the car. Not sure if ALL floor pans had them, if you are going from a bench to buckets. Definite canary if cops have a look, and they may tear out of the floor in a prang.

GET a set of brake line pliers ,squeeze off said brake line ,take off caliper,walk over to bin remove lid and deposit caliper into this receptical 

True, and good research.
 
I love my FMX. Neck snapping, tyre squealin' gear changes, that break seat mounts.....but, that's just me.
 
(Just don't EVER want to change another, in my entire life !)  Cast Iron is FOOKIN' HEAVY

Yep, what he said ^ ^ ^
 
Why the change, you looking for less weight ?

yokes are different, FMX is 31 spline and the C4 is 28 spline

Tyres and wheels, yep its not really covered!  We'll most likely get this up, I'll report back soon.
 
Thanks for the tip/idea.

I'm with you, nOObus, looks scary. BUt, if dudes have used them, (like you blackxt) with no issues, then I guess they work.
 
I use a couple of old seat belts tied with a double granny knot.......
 
Seriously, chains on the heads, or fabric slings around the sump, and a chain block/engine crane. Much better with a mate helping. Jack up engine then slowly push car out the way.
 
Dont forget plastic bag tied on trans housing, cos gearbox oil smells like ass.

hey, what's wrong with that? that's point of DIY isn't it? save money!

That'll be $100, thanks........

Close your eyes...........and run your hand along the panel.
 
Paint with a flat/matte colour, easier to see dents without shine.
 
Smear the whole car in a thin layer of bondo, Boyd Coddington style, and file flat with a half metre long sanding plane.

That'll be $100, thanks........

Ring your local rego branch and ask if they can do a search for the last registered owner of the engine and contact them on your behalf (they won't give out contact details due to privacy laws). Vicroads in the past have done this and they contact the current owner with a request to sell the engine if it is currently not in a vehicle. A mate had this done and the guy who owned the engine agreed to sell it back on the proviso he was given another standard block to build up. This was a fair few years ago now so I don't know if they do it anymore.

I rang the guy from Knox yesterday and he said he is all good and i can pick some up tomorrow. Recon thats the way ill go at this stage cause its seems easy to get there from our lodgings!
 
Thanks everyone for your input! Ill let you know how they go when i fit them up!

I've had both and same, neither was a great fit, however the fit can be improved with that stick on sound matting and then use some contact adhesive to stick the carpet down.  Don't use a drill to do the holes, use a test light to find the holes and slice them carefully with a blade, heaps easier.  Oh and start from the tunnel and move outwards.

Just shit stirring.......I know what I meant.    

Had both, neither is perfect, IMHO. Never fit around the tunnel. Bought  Grey,Plush pile for the FC LTD, but the fluff kept coming off for years. Carpet was very nice, though. Got Black, loop pile for the XB Ute, seems much more hard wearing, but, harder to get the dirt out, as the little grass seeds get caught under the loops.
 
I know that doesn't help............

Yeah, agree. The pic that Defective put up, looks way better, 'cos the owner deleted the E series bonnet swage lines.

Kinda looks OK, but should've painted the blackouts along the bonnet swage lines.
 

 

That xh could be using one of those fibreglass copies? They're cut to the shape of the black outs. Which would make it hard to delete the original lines.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb160/H2Micr0/BenJs%20EB%20Ghia%20Wagon/AJR%20Wheels/WagSpeedyCheetahs12_zpsdb52a70c.jpg"
 

the short z9 is the z89a, yes there is a ford equivilant but cant remember the number, ask for an au ts50 oil filter, basically any au v8 with an oil cooler but the ts50 is the sure fire hit

Personally, I run Z9's, but as long as they have pressure bypass, they should do the same job. It's like 25 brands of toothbrush that all do the same thing. 
The best thing is to inspect your oil filter by cutting it open after draining it. It should be dirt and metal particle free. Regular oil changes, more often, if you
give your engine heaps of right boot.!, are just as important.
 
Thanks for all the links, been interesting reading.

Thanks all for advice, some good stuff in there.
I've been around Engineering all my life, and a Fitter for 20 years, so I wasn't going to be Guido with a Makita in the back yard..........
It would be an engineering company, multi spindle drill and steel inserts. Hadn't thought of the blank rotors idea, sometimes you just can't find old wheels or mags, and when ya do, they fit something else, like a Prius.
 
Occasionally you will find old school rims like Hurricanes, Rebels or Hotwires for other cars, but not for the old FalCoon.
I've seen new sets are available on eBay, but I'm not paying over $3,000 for them.

I cannot say if they are the best, but, as i said the oil nerds love using motorcraft on their fords. most of the data is in america. What i did find is that the Australian motorcraft is different to the american one, being manufactured by Ryco apparently. I have always used ryco because it was on the shelf. As long as you are obeying good oil change intervals(OCIs), you keep the dirt out of the engine and are using a good and serviceable air filter you shouldn't have problems with the local ones. But there are "Better" filters out there in the same price range. If you can get the american FL-1A motorcraft filter through ford for under $10 then use those as they are apparently a higher quality filter. To my knowledge these all filter to 40um at >97% efficiency. I have not checkd this with Ryco, Ford or motorcraft. These filters will last the 10,000km OCI as intended by the OEM.
 
I personally am most likely going to change to the Donaldson filter with a 22um @ 99% efficiency. They will trap and filter much smaller particles. But at the same time i am also going to be reducing my OCI's to probably about 5,000km. As it make sense if they trap more particles they will of course clog up faster. There is this SYNTEQ Media they talk about in this particular filter That is mean to be able to hold more particles and offer lower micron filtration while maintaining OEM standards for OCI's but i dunno...
 
Slo, If you line the AFL1 up against a Zyco Z9, apparently aside from the color and text on the can they will appear identical. The american ones use a silicone (red) seal that you can see though larger holes in the base. The auzzie ones have a black seal made out of some other material, i forget what it was now, that apparently can become brittle after a few years in service. Not going to be a problem if you have good OCI discipline. There is also the rumor that this was all old stock and now the aussie ones will be coming with the red silicone seal now.
 
Slo, im pretty sure i have a Ryco spare. If you wanna take a pic of the bottom of one of your motorcraft filters with a ruler near the holes in the base, I'll do the same and see if what i hear on the internet is correct.
 
From what i understand the high efficiency (HE) filters behave as i spoke above. Lower micron count so can clog up faster. On this page i just Googled it even recommends lowering your OCI to 5k. It must have a lower flow rating hence the "not recommended for race applications" And, looks like red silicone gasket material.
http://www.rycofilters.com.au/products/platinum-high-efficiency
As i said, have only been looking into this for just over a week now so a lot of what im yammering on about is yet to be confirmed and is all information i have digested from searching, forums can calling manufacturers.
 
Don't take what im saying as gospel, If you have a question or a doubt, Raise it.

Thanks all for advice, some good stuff in there.
I've been around Engineering all my life, and a Fitter for 20 years, so I wasn't going to be Guido with a Makita in the back yard..........
It would be an engineering company, multi spindle drill and steel inserts. Hadn't thought of the blank rotors idea, sometimes you just can't find old wheels or mags, and when ya do, they fit something else, like a Prius.
 
Occasionally you will find old school rims like Hurricanes, Rebels or Hotwires for other cars, but not for the old FalCoon.
I've seen new sets are available on eBay, but I'm not paying over $3,000 for them.