bear351c

Had a look at belts today, the alternator, waterpump and crank belt on the XG 4L is a Bosch 3PK895, so 895mm long.
I found that Bosch also make a 3PK865 (30mm shorter), so I'm going to grab one as soon as I can and give it a shot.
I'll post how it goes, as it might be a neater solution for others that wind up in the same position.
Thanks for the help with it fellas.

to save headaches swap everything bar the diff mechanically. wiring looms should be similar, but ive never done one on an FD. cluster will be different if it has a tacho.
 
swap the tanks fixes the pickup issue, you will need to swap out the hard fuel line as well (where it goes through to the engine bay) and re run the fuel line anyway, they are probably different sizes, plus changing fuel line that old is probably a good idea anyhow.
 
radiator etc is different so make sure you swap out all that. is the 351 car matching nos? if so maybe think twice before stripping it...

I agree with XCSEDAN. I looked at that this option and felt the cost out weighed the effort in victoria and thats if I ended up with a decent windsor to begin with.
 
The money  was better spent putting into an engine that orginally came out with that model and easily fill out an vicroads engine change form and off I go down the road. 
 
I could have put a windsor in, no worries as some mates suggested without bothering about engineers but the way insurance companies are any excuse not to honor the policy. That wasn't a chance I was willing to take.   

you forgot engineering.... realistically anything under 3K i cant see happening... thats even cutting it fine...

basically its as simple as this. in vic you will need
factory ECU, with factory tune
factory exhaust (namely cats)
no mods
the car will have to passed by an engineer to make sure it complies with emissions.
exhaust DB will be tested also
now, assuming you already have everything required to do the conversion, and can do EVERYTHING yourself. then you will only have to spend another $700 to get it signed off. i gaurentee you will spend more than that making everything work.
 
thus, your best bet, is to drop a cleveland in. 5.0 windsors complete in good nick are not cheap. if you look around you can find a recently rebuilt cleveland for 2-3K and you don't have to worry about any of the emissions gear if its from the same era.

option 1) buy complete 5.0 e/a series take what you need, once registered sell what you don't
 
option 2) drop a cleveland in, that will make more torque, be nicer to drive and have more hp and probably cost less

Yep, done as said by the above experts.
Standard pump is plenty given the Clevo's inherrent oiling issues. Has the sump been dented? Can cause restriction between the pan and pump pick up.

undo the engine bolts, lift the engine up about 25 - 30mm, put some good quality blocks of wood under the engine mounts, this will keep the engine up in the air, no need to disconnect anything to do with the engine, 25-30mm shouldn't hurt anything
 
Then take off the sway bar and the sump should be easy to get out

yep. easy as piss, just back off the engine mounts a bit so you can lift the motor a touch, i've done it without doing that, but its much harder.
 
oil pump just get a good brand standard volume, and you'll probably find your pickup is blocked a bit too.

Decided to strip the car for parts, I managed to score a 79 XD S pak with a worked 351 in it, will be a much better car to do up.

Yeah, they are pretty sweet.
But the prices I've been seeing them at is a little too rich for my liking, it's money I'd rather spend on the engine and driveline for now.
Maybe once it's all sorted though...

Yeah, BA XR seats are awesome. Best chairs FoMoCo have made in years.

Make sure there are plates/washers under the floor pan that the bolts go through, ( if you need to drill new holes.)
If not, during a collision, the seat will tear out of the floor. Just a thought.

I seriously doubt you will ever ever get pinged for fitting buckets where there was a bench if using factory parts.Mine was is a 88 model and I have fitted XF buckets and been pulled over HEAPS in it and never once questioned about them.That said mine has the multi pattern floor pan witch meant no holes needed to be drilled anywhere to fit the buckets.
 
Yes the XG style of seat (bucket or bench) is better then the XF and if going for a bucket I'd choose those over a XF bucket as the XF bucket is quite poo infact.With the AU seats out of my XLS about to go into my XF ute or better still If I find any I'll fit some BA-BF XR buckets mmmmmmmmmm
 
Just food for thought...    

Oh about 7 more times.

Thanks for the positive comments and information. I just wanted to explain that the XG was running out of rego very shortly and that I was gathering parts and workshop manuals to aid in replacing and tuning and a maybe do small rebuild to make it run good and safely. The XG is not in the best shape. The old owner bashed it down. The engine has a knock in it and I do plan to replace it. So I sometimes use the internet for help and direct answers instead of going through the workshop manual. 
The car isn't going onto the road for sometime. In the mean time I am checking over the car finding this wear everywhere. 

Sometimes it takes proof to show others what neglect and wear looks like in extreme cases. Come on guys i'm sure there is someone on this forum driving around with breaks that are worn so bad that screech. If not maybe this would prevent some drivers from getting to that stage, along with upper and lower ball joints.

Don't let the boys fire you up, mate. Buy the parts when you can afford them, ask for info and help if needed. Good luck.

My experience with those needle roller casings has shown them to be thin and fragile when trying to drive/press them out. They just end up smashing to bits. Welding them out might be a delicate but more successful means. Pressing the new one in might be interesting, may need some heat on the casing to slip it in easier.

You freeze the bearing, and warm the alloy casing to about 100 degrees.
Bearing should almost drop straight in then.

Bearing Services, or  (CBC) Consolidated Bearing Company? Take a bearing in, they can measure it, and supply, if you have no luck. 

No. In order to be a 'stroker' the crankshaft has to be 'stroked'.  The offset of the journals is increased or decreased, from the centre of the crank.

Mark D'allaqua.
 
Say no more.........

Mark D'allaqua.
 
Say no more.........

Not 100% sure, but seem to recall that the early 347 had a problem with the gudgeon pin bore, being too close to the oil ring groove. I believe it was fixed b y ACL or Federal Mogul or some such. (New design of piston.)

Going back 20 years or so........(I know, old fart) I fitted one on my Fairlane. 351 Clevo. Big coffee can actuator, and a stalk that mounted on the steering column.
Used ot for years and years, never broke, never failed. Can't remember who made it, China I guess. Ran a couple of wires, mounted 2 magnets on the tailshaft, and Robert's ya Farvers bruvver.  Went across the Nullabor, paid for itself immediately.

I'm still learning to walk and chew gum, at the same time.......