binary-fuel

I have owned a ford xg ute for sometime now. I got it as a second hand ute which was owned by an ex trade fellow. The ute has had some of the body cut by wood and metal rubbing against it and causing deep cuts which has rain has touched. For anyone who has more know how then me, What is the best method to remove rust in hard to reach places?, best rust converters? method or removal in attempts to remove the deep rust cut to prep for new paint or strengthening using some steel, or just to prevent rust for eating away more while i gain funds to do a grind back. Any tips or tricks would be greatly helpful. Thank you in advance Binary-fuel

I did some researched when I wanted to upgrade my xg brakes so far there is the only standard piston that I could find, as for the other x models I haven't found one with twin piston that would fit in. By the sound of what your brake are doing I do think that the piston rubber ring that works the piston inside has ether worn out or the piston has wear on it and rubbing against this ring. Just a guess, because mine had this issue. For some reason the wheel wouldn't spin but once I adjusted it, it then worked but then had a a lot of friction to where it took a lot of force to move. For me tho it was the rubber that is inside around the piston it was split which cause the piston to have issues retreating back and kept the pads pressed. As for your lack of funds issue, sometimes buying recon breaks are a cheap way to get new breaks. They replace the dust cap, the ring and recon the piston or in some cases replace it with a new one. If your like me new is always better but if it works like new smells like new and is clean as new, then it should be the same if they did a good job.

Yer I found some challenges that others have had but they have managed to bypass most of them. I am converting the column xg to a t5 manual. which as you know does not contain the manual inner fittings, so the hump, etc. At this time it will be cheaper to do that option rather then getting a manual xg and gambling on the clutch not being stuffed or anything else my xg is experiencing from age that other XG utes may experience. I would love to go outback but I don't require 2 tanks or super heavy duty shocks and other parts the outback has over the standard xg. Thanks for having a look in the manual, it seems with the XG unless you can afford it, the manuals for it are gold

I guess the point is, would you leave these looking the way they are... Nope. There is no exact checking method. Some use the turning of one wheel and inspect with eyes while then turn it checking for noise. There has been some to say to jump/push down on a side of the car over the wheel you want to test, ether have a mate hear and or feel for movement or rubbing then aim to apart which could be the issue and then inspect, then others do the jack the car of the car and hold onto the wheel and turn it and pull it towards you and see if there is movement or sound, there may be more methods but all test almost of the hole infrastructure of the wheel mechanics. Depending on what you aim, bearing or ball joint there is not one test to test them all sometimes you need the car on the ground to test parts or change.

that's anyway jack, Sorry to hear the cast part, hope it heals well. Well if you do have the supplement book, you don't have to, but if you have some free time would you scan a couple of pages showing the hump, the workings and down to the gear box link, should be 3 pages depending of the book and how they have work. Google is no help only got pedals and gear job location but not alot of detail by the view.I have moved to victoria and know no one here. Plus I don't live near ute xg or ford owners in that matter. But I will keep trying. thanks

Yeah that's what I thought until i looked into the tray and found a support post that connects into the front bar mounts. He had mentioned that he carried heavy posts over the bonnet on the passenger side using this post. I just don't see sufficient damage in the back to suggest that the tray had alot of weight in it from when I got it. I have loaded the tray up and thus noticed the ball joint is noisy then inspected to find it had been crushed due to the weight and speed bumps. Regardless of the existing hard life shes had, I am replacing much needed parts then considering a xr6 or v8 engine swap and supporting mods to go with it, big breaks, heavy duty supps.

http://ericthecarguy.com/ http://ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems

I am requesting someone with 5 minutes free time to take photos of the there manual XG 94-96 run down. The picture are for the manual gear stick fittings, taking apart showing harness or connectors/cables anything in the hump area. The link in the engine. Everything that goes to the gear box from the interior I am converter mine to manual and just need the expected result of the technical features, including gear height from cd/stack deck audio so i get height expectations and anything that might help in manual conversion via pictures. I know its an odd request but I just need an insight. thanks in advance

Yeah alright, I think it depends on the brand and car because my stock joints has done 500k without replacing but the others show near no signs of needing replacement but one where most consistent weight is placed is the one needing replacement (front passenger side from wood and other objects placed on metal braces). As for ebay I have seen the kits for the tie rods/ball joints, but due to ford making 3 different configurations for tie rods I won't do online just in case they mess me around with returns or claim I should have known the version configuration I had, I also only buy little stuff for the XG on ebay, PVC valve from trusted sources. I will buy the rods from the shops maybe even ford as the ford ones on it (not sure model or make) have yet to fail and is stock with 500k on them they have proved tough even the ball joints that have followed the adventure have yet to fail except the abused one. I will try the TRW as a lot of users on this site haven't reported issues with them. I do have to look for better deals but the sounds on what your paying.

I was told that you may request greaseable ones and that you should aim for greased ones because they out last sealed due to when the sealed ones stops being greased it squeaks which then indicates wearing on the joint (this is what mine has done) But thanks I was thinking $50 was cheap but yeah I will try a proper place for the parts. Any brand recommended? For what you have paid that is cheap. My honda civic tie rods cost near $250 and to get the ball joints and tie rods in the kits that's cheap.

lucky because when I inspected the upper joint it is the worse thing I have ever seen of a car of this age. The weight this car must have had on it (ex tradesmen car) was extreme. When I checked them the first time there was signs of wear but I just wanted it due to the price and infact the engine is perfect and it has served me well. Its in my shed having the engine teared out and a xr6 or 8 cyl being placed in with many upgrades. Big plans, but so little money to do it so may take ages, I am doing the joints myself but with a mechanic looking over me

500,000ks yeap engine and all is still beating

I went into Repco today and got quoted $50 per ball joint upper and lower both sides = $200. He gave me a part number 7510 upper and 7512 lower jbj brand but I haven't been able to find this part online to see if it is good with wear or any information on this ball joint. Has anyone found cheaper ball joints that are not sealed. Sealed is ok if it is cheaper. I want to replace both sides in one hit but just for now I want to replace the screwed ball point to run it to repair places. I do however wish to do the full repair in one hit to avoid having to jack the car up and do another hour of so of work completing the others. So has anyone found any cheaper ones for the XG or is this a good prices. What is the price different with sealed or greasable, if any.

Its alright. I quit smoking today and I think something just ticked me and the last comment showed it. Sorry. Yeah I know what the picture means. Stress and wear and non regular checks. The car did travel 1300ks with a hole house on it. It also was not in a perfect shape, but it did it. The car has had a lot of stress placed on those parts. When I say I wish to replace the parts myself I am not thinking it's easy. I'm thinking 5 to 9 hours work with a couple of petrol heads and some beer, of course that is expecting to find more issue.