Free.51

it should be like new but good question

when you shut the door without the striker, how do the body lines line up? if they are inline front to back door and the gaps are ok then it should be pretty close. the striker is adjustable in and out, also the 4 hinge bolts in wards and out.and up and down. (plus up and down on any angle on the 3 bolt part of the hinge
 

Here's a couple of my xh and my old xe and my mates xe

Ok thanks mate thats how im gonna do it, ill get my bro to hold the door cos i cant completely take the door away cos of the elctrics loom

yup you unbolt da fooka and pop the door off then bash the old pin out because you now have room,all up 10 mins work

The top pin is gonna be tricky theres not really any room to line the punch up with the pin, but ill figure something out, cheers for the reply👍👍

thats how you do it exactly

You don't really have to know what you're doing to sell shit on fleaBay. Windsor is Windsor and Clevo is Clevo, no two ways about it. The closest you'll get to a Windsor being a clevo is if you build your own Boss or "Clevor".

Beer o'clock☺

^^^yes thats the size, just checked em

205/65/15

Yep me too , mine are 15×6.5

Oi stop giving away trade secrets haha

Find a nice open car park or super quiet street and select reverse.  While reversing, apply moderate brake pressure using your left foot (not enough to stop the car).
 
Sometimes 3 or 4 passes of about 50 - 100m in reverse with some brake applied can loosen the material that's squeaking.
 
Often though, if the reverse method stops the squeak, it can return and then you end up having to slip the pads out and rough them up and chamfer anyway.
 
Any persistent squealing after that and you either rough up or lightly machine the rotors.
 
This is all assuming your pad fitment is correct and none of the slides / slide pins are stuck or binding.

From what I've read the local cranks are equivalent to a 4ma but not quite as good as a 4mab but you are correct gerg it is a locally cast crank only the Australian cranks had their size cast into them the US version were either 4m, 4ma or 4mab

You are young though gerg, well younger than me speaking of which its my bday today.

This motor is gunna be gangsta from what it was,i will be selling it when its finished in a few weeks,it wont be expensive if you need a nice engine to replace your old 302.

Gerg what is a blue block & black block motor does it have to do with emissions or block thicknessl?

First job for the new xg ute was picking up this cleveland i bought very cheap complete with flywheel /clutch and 2 barrel holley,it was a runner but needs an overhaul,i imagine its a 302 cleveland ,probly out of a f truck,mid 70's it also has some weird things done to it like check the vaccum valve in the rocker cover LOL and also a stamp of some sort probly from the joint that re coed it b4,so lets pull this motor down and rebuild it .

That looks nice now mate

The tool arrived today, now i can finish the rear brakes
 
Sent from my LG-H340 using Tapatalk

Got the extractors fitted up to the 4.1 and a  new 2 1/2 system plumbed in ,sounds sweet .
 
Pulled  my 18 yr old son out from behind the fucking computer and he spent Saturday giving the XE some love.
Also fitted new plugs and changed the O.E.M orange Motorcraft leads for the first time since 1983, still the original leads on it .
The car only has 110 kms on the clock also put a Weber Ram flo air filter on .
 
Well what a difference now, the  car has always  struggled to get to 130 kmh. I didn't mind it being a slug cause he is only on L Plates, now it pulls to
150 kmh and I think it was just about done at 170kmh.
 
So Sunday we took it for a cruise down to Rare Spares in Roxburgh Park about 1/2 hour drive.
On the way back we had trouble getting gears in the 4 spd manual.
 
Popped the bonnet and sure enough the heat from the extractors made the old clutch cable stretch.
I  reckon the cable is the original one as well like the leads.It was at maximum adjustment anyway.
 
I see on the net it is not an uncommon  problem .
So  has anyone else wrapped the extractor's and possibly put a strip of heat sleeve insulation over the cable?
Or is the only way to fix it properly to change it to a hydraulic set-up?

I like the way this bloke has done the taillights & garnish on his ed xr6 looks similar to fc fd ltd tail lights, the rest of the car looks awesome too
 
Sent from my LG-H340 using Tapatalk

I like the way this bloke has done the taillights & garnish on his ed xr6 looks similar to fc fd ltd tail lights, the rest of the car looks awesome too
 
Sent from my LG-H340 using Tapatalk