Fitting extractors/headers

[XTREME KARTS XF 1,212]

Hey fella's

 

I just bought a set of headers for my XD and was woundering how hard are they to fit.

 

Does the engine needed to lifted up to fit them or can it be done without using an engine crane?

 

Mine are just the off the shelf Tri Y's, not 4 into 1's.

 

 

 

Any help and ideas/advice will be greatly appreciated

[Valvebouncer 2,389]

No need to pull the engine.

Feed them up from the bottom.

Good luck with the bottom back 2 bolts on the drivers side

[slydog 7,873]

What sort are they? My paceys dead set took like 2 mins to get in and out. Obviously I run studs to make the job a seventy faster but a easy enough job anyone can do really. Just be open minded and confident of learning a new skill and you will carve it up bro.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,299]

Yes those back 2 bolts on drivers side can be a pain,i cut a spanner in half to get it in better,top one is not to hard but that under one is testing.

[XTREME KARTS XF 1,212]

Easier than i thought it was haha. The guy the i bought the headers off told me that i'll have to lift the engine up....... yeah so much so LOL.

 

Thanks for the advice fella's

 

 

Free beers for all (or for those who dont drink beer, rum, jim beam, jack daniels etc)

[Free.51 2,717]

Did you fit them up already mark?, gotta do a vid with the extractors & exhaust on now

[CHESTNUTXE 7,299]

what is easy is fitting them when the engine is on the crane in the engine bay a few inches above where it bolts in,the passenger side is no real problem,but the drivers side comes close to the steering box and starter motor.

[XTREME KARTS XF 1,212]

Did you fit them up already mark?, gotta do a vid with the extractors & exhaust on now

 

Later on i will

 

what is easy is fitting them when the engine is on the crane in the engine bay a few inches above where it bolts in,the passenger side is no real problem,but the drivers side comes close to the steering box and starter motor.

 

 

Manual steering here so no issue with box clearance, starter will be heat wrapped to help prevent heat soaking and the headers have to be modified to make way for the bell crank (column auto) and the trans dip stick (pan fill C4)

[scottly 475]

Passenger side is very easy as there is a heap more room. if you struggle with the drivers side as said above feed the headers from the bottom up if it's Easyer, you can also take out the drivers side engine mount through bolt and carefully jack or crane the drivers side of engine up to lean the Motor over touch which will give you more access. +1 for studs

[xhadyboy 491]

We are fitting some extractors to a 4.1 at the moment.

 

There is the pipe the runs form the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the inlet manifold.

We are not refitting the tube and want to blank off the inlet side ,its a weird size/ thread.

 

Does anyone know if there is a bolt or plug off the shelf?

Or just cut the tube down and fold it over ?

[deankxf 20,263]

We are fitting some extractors to a 4.1 at the moment.

 

There is the pipe the runs form the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the inlet manifold.

We are not refitting the tube and want to blank off the inlet side ,its a weird size/ thread.

 

Does anyone know if there is a bolt or plug off the shelf?

Or just cut the tube down and fold it over ?

last time i unbolted the EGR (the thing the pipe goes into) and made a solid gasket with no hole to go between it and the inlet  and bolted it back on.. its probably blocked with carbon anyway, but you'd be better off blocking it off properly.

i also found 5 or 10c coin in one behind the pipe once too.. blocking it offf

[xhadyboy 491]

I  read over on the other site this E.G.R does very little and as you said Dean its probably blocked with carbon.

We are trying to clean up the engine bay ,can I just take the E.G.R valve off completely and put a blank plate on the inlet manifold

[SLO247 1,713]

Sure can.

[Thom 6,650]

I  read over on the other site this E.G.R does very little and as you said Dean its probably blocked with carbon.

We are trying to clean up the engine bay ,can I just take the E.G.R valve off completely and put a blank plate on the inlet manifold

 

Don't pull the egr off if you have to get a Roady for it still, instant fail

[xhadyboy 491]

Good advice Thom.

Its going to be my young blokes(18 yrs old ) red P plater, weekend ride .

 

Then in 3 - 4 years  when he is off  P plates ,351 clevo or turbo 6

So no real plans to sell it..

 

Still kicking myself from selling my one owner , XC G.S 5.8 in 1987  for $4500.

So trying to keep this one

 

We have lots of room to store the O.E.M gear if retro fit is needed.

[gerg 10,871]

I know most will look at me funny when I say this, but if the EGR is still working and not seized, and the manifold can be drilled out/cleaned of carbon, etc, try and get it working again. EGR does nothing to performance (as it closes under load), but it does lots for economy and emissions. Economy yes because at cruise, when EGR works, the engine (ie timing, jetting, etc.) is tuned for a certain percentage of EGR. If you take that away, it needs to be replaced with air and fuel - by opening the throttle more.

[xhadyboy 491]

That's interesting Gerg

 

I thought the  E.G.R  valve was more of a warm up thing, for emissions, open when cold,shut when hot.

Didn't realize it was a dynamic action.

 

Shows why I am on here listening to blokes much smarter than me.

I will stick to Landscaping and Irrigation.

 

So if it was chockers with carbon it probably isn't doing its thing at the moment?

I suppose we can pull it off and see ?

[gerg 10,871]

I thought the  E.G.R  valve was more of a warm up thing, for emissions, open when cold,shut when hot.

Didn't realize it was a dynamic action.

I think you're getting it mixed up with either the stove pipe that runs to the snorkel on your air cleaner or the choke thermostat pipes on some earlier models before electric chokes. The EGR, if hooked up correctly, gets its supply from a vacuum switch on the engine somewhere to prevent opening before the engine is warm enough. It does exactly the opposite to what you said.

 

[

So if it was chockers with carbon it probably isn't doing its thing at the moment?

I suppose we can pull it off and see ?

Sure 2 bolts and it should come off. You can test the actual valve by hooking it up to direct vacuum with the engine running. If it's only minor carbon in there, some lemon juice will dissolve it overnight.

[xhadyboy 491]

Got the extractors fitted up to the 4.1 and a  new 2 1/2 system plumbed in ,sounds sweet .

 

Pulled  my 18 yr old son out from behind the fucking computer and he spent Saturday giving the XE some love.

Also fitted new plugs and changed the O.E.M orange Motorcraft leads for the first time since 1983, still the original leads on it .

The car only has 110 kms on the clock also put a Weber Ram flo air filter on .

 

Well what a difference now, the  car has always  struggled to get to 130 kmh. I didn't mind it being a slug cause he is only on L Plates, now it pulls to

150 kmh and I think it was just about done at 170kmh.

 

So Sunday we took it for a cruise down to Rare Spares in Roxburgh Park about 1/2 hour drive.

On the way back we had trouble getting gears in the 4 spd manual.

 

Popped the bonnet and sure enough the heat from the extractors made the old clutch cable stretch.

I  reckon the cable is the original one as well like the leads.It was at maximum adjustment anyway.

 

I see on the net it is not an uncommon  problem .

So  has anyone else wrapped the extractor's and possibly put a strip of heat sleeve insulation over the cable?

Or is the only way to fix it properly to change it to a hydraulic set-up?

[gerg 10,871]

In my experience, every time I've seen a set of extractors wrapped, including my own corty, my mate's xf, and my dad's xf, they've failed in less than 2 years. The wrap locks too much heat in and causes the metal to fatigue and either fail at the welds, or along the tube seams where the tube is made at the factory. My advice is to insulate everything else and if you must wrap the headers, do it from the last joint onwards. In saying that, my dad's xf used to eat a clutch cable once a year, even after wrapping it. Seems that the wrap caused the heat to be trapped inside the cable and cook everything in it. I reckon the slip-on foil type sock is better than the ceramic wrap, as there is some air gap between the insulation and the cable.

[xhadyboy 491]

Yeah the wrap hasn't got a great wrap Gerg.

I  think the Ceramic Coating will last a bit longer and not rob the carbon out of the extractors as the heat soak under the wrap will.

I don't reckon C.C will solve the issue completely and we will still have  to insulate /wrap the clutch cable.

 

The team at High performance coatings in Leongatha get a good review. $360.00 plus fright down there and back.

Also on net is Competitive Coatings in NtH Coburg $280.00 which is around the corner from work.

The only thing is H.P.C really only recommend a black coating were as Comp Coating reckon an aluminium coating is superior.

So still a bit confused which way to jump ?

I am going to call Jet Hot coating's in Castlemaine to get their version.

I wonder if Ants has had any dealings with them ?

[Thom 6,650]

The whole exhuast on my old man's a model is jet hot coated in black it dropped the in car Temps significantly

[xhadyboy 491]

Does the A model run extractors Thom?

[Thom 6,650]

It certainly does and it makes 550 hp at the tires

[ESPSIX 143]

I've delt with competition coatings in nth coburg a couple of times, and they are great to deal with.

The black is for higher temps, and is what was recommended for my dump pipe, but the alloy/silver coating has dropped under bonnet temps on the misses' 351 a heap and look great.

 

The heat wrap will kill the pipes, as already mentioned.

 

I wouldn't imagine you'd need the black on a 4.1.

 

I'd be inclined to make up a heat shield where the cable passes the pipe, more than wrapping the cable.

 

I also had one of these made, because the nut would melt its way into the original plastic one.