Mr Polson

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.
 

It's a pretty universal thermostat to be honest (most are) but it includes the right seal for E series.
 
I'd have to double check the temp rating at work and see what it is, Dayco are shocking for recommending a temp range cooler than OEM, but it's easy enough to get the right one if you know what range you need.
 
 
https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/cooling/thermostats-housings/dayco-thermostat-includes-seal/p/A7634420
 
 
 
 

If we're talking xflow then you're spot on. My ute was about 2600 (maybe a little higher) when it was 3sp with the 3.23 diff.
Sits under 2000rpm now with the T5 (late model box so has a different 5th ratio to earlier T5s).
@Panko and I have done comparisons before, his old 2.77 diff with early T5 and my 3.23 diff with late T5 resulted in almost identical rpm at 100km/h.




3sp manual Falcons only had 3.23 or 3.5 diff ratios from factory.
I think all Ghias (sedan & wagons) got 2.77, at least in XF. Probably same for Fairlane/LTD.

Maybe you could choose the ratio of you ordered one new depending on your driving style/choice? Hence the lack of consistency.

If we're talking xflow then you're spot on. My ute was about 2600 (maybe a little higher) when it was 3sp with the 3.23 diff.
Sits under 2000rpm now with the T5 (late model box so has a different 5th ratio to earlier T5s).
@Panko and I have done comparisons before, his old 2.77 diff with early T5 and my 3.23 diff with late T5 resulted in almost identical rpm at 100km/h.




3sp manual Falcons only had 3.23 or 3.5 diff ratios from factory.
I think all Ghias (sedan & wagons) got 2.77, at least in XF. Probably same for Fairlane/LTD.

Maybe you could choose the ratio of you ordered one new depending on your driving style/choice? Hence the lack of consistency.

Yeah, like a manual.

FGs have a very different shifter setup to BA/BF, none of the shifter channel is exposed if that makes sense.

You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon.
Acts as a bit of a spacer too.

For reference, an easy way to tell the difference between the 3.3 5sp and the T5 is reverse location, T5 has reverse under 5th whereas the weak 5sp has it next to 1st.

Boxes also look quite different externally.

For reference, an easy way to tell the difference between the 3.3 5sp and the T5 is reverse location, T5 has reverse under 5th whereas the weak 5sp has it next to 1st.

Boxes also look quite different externally.

You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon.
Acts as a bit of a spacer too.

You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon.
Acts as a bit of a spacer too.

Get customers often doing this with the diesel oil, generally older folk that know about it. They much prefer it over engine flush.

Here's a chart that includes the zinc PPM of Penrite oils, few have more than 1400

Looking at just the video of the rockers I'm going to guess wiped cam lobe, if the pushrods are straight.

Don't know where the pictures are anymore but I had a crossflow wipe a cam lobe, was EFI so no carb issues but it was very tappy sounding and lost a fair amount of performance.

If the motor is nothing special probably be just as easy to replace it vs repair it - I repaired mine but it was only 10,000km old from a full rebuild at the time.

Looking at just the video of the rockers I'm going to guess wiped cam lobe, if the pushrods are straight.

Don't know where the pictures are anymore but I had a crossflow wipe a cam lobe, was EFI so no carb issues but it was very tappy sounding and lost a fair amount of performance.

If the motor is nothing special probably be just as easy to replace it vs repair it - I repaired mine but it was only 10,000km old from a full rebuild at the time.

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

Thanks very much, really helpful and much appreciated!

Updated the original post with clearer, new scans

Go to Tilford for the plugs, genuine plugs are about $10ea, NGK ones through me will be $20 a plug.

But everything else I can help with

I definitely agree with Panko about the whole 2.77 diff with early T5, or 3.23 kinda ratio for the later ones.
My XF ute has a late T5, with 3.23 diff. Panko and I done some comparisons once, when he still had the 2.77 diff, he'd do the same revs at 100km/h with the early T5 and 2.77 as my ute with the late T5 and 3.23.
 
Definitely also recommend the reinforcement of the firewall. If needed I can grab a pic of my ute which has the firewall reinforced. Clutch pedal has never been touched to my knowledge though.
 
And unless you're specifically wanting a manual, they're a really nice vehicle to drive when the auto is working well.
 
I not long ago completed a 4000km trip across Tas/Vic/NSW in my Ghia wagon, with the EFI 250, auto (and working AC). For the long distances, just putting it in D and setting the cruise control is great.
 
For reference, across that trip, with a fully loaded car, AC almost always on (and running R134 gas), and the wrong cam in the motor (carby cam which has different valve timing), I returned an average fuel economy of 13L/100.
 
 
 

I definitely agree with Panko about the whole 2.77 diff with early T5, or 3.23 kinda ratio for the later ones.
My XF ute has a late T5, with 3.23 diff. Panko and I done some comparisons once, when he still had the 2.77 diff, he'd do the same revs at 100km/h with the early T5 and 2.77 as my ute with the late T5 and 3.23.
 
Definitely also recommend the reinforcement of the firewall. If needed I can grab a pic of my ute which has the firewall reinforced. Clutch pedal has never been touched to my knowledge though.
 
And unless you're specifically wanting a manual, they're a really nice vehicle to drive when the auto is working well.
 
I not long ago completed a 4000km trip across Tas/Vic/NSW in my Ghia wagon, with the EFI 250, auto (and working AC). For the long distances, just putting it in D and setting the cruise control is great.
 
For reference, across that trip, with a fully loaded car, AC almost always on (and running R134 gas), and the wrong cam in the motor (carby cam which has different valve timing), I returned an average fuel economy of 13L/100.
 
 
 

Good news is they're cheap, because the Falcon 6 starter motor is the same from 1960-2006

BXS0102

https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/electrical-parts-vehicle-management/starter-motors-drives-and-solenoids/oex-starter-motor-12v-10th-cw-bosch-style-bxs0102/p/A9337980

Nothing wrong with a few scratches and swirls if it's original old paint if you ask me.

Next time you need to clay a car, you can make your life a billion times easier if you get a clay pad rather than the old bars.

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/claying-rubber

I have just spent about 2 days worth of work on the Escort, polishing it, after it got covered in what i can only think to be grinding spray.  
 
last week dad and i built his new workbench into the shed, which involved a lot of cutting and grinding of steel. The car was in the middle of the carport across the front of the shed, and we were working 4-6m away. 
at the time i felt sure it was fine and the majority of the work was away from the car, but obviously not good enough. 
 
the below pic of my clay bar after just ¼ of the boot lid. To give an idea how badly it got covered. 
 


the video below gives you a comparison of before and after clay bar
 
https://imgur.com/a/oN1CrXx
 
other than the fact it needed doing due to shit stuck all over it, it was well overdue for a proper polish. 
id forgotten how much the colour “pops” in the sun. 
 
this is just after clay bar. No polish, wax,  nothing. 
 


today i finished the polish job on it. 
All done by hand. 
1 - clay bar
2 - Bowden’s Own - Paint Cleanse and Restore
3 - Mother’s Carnauba Wax (what I had) 
4 - Bowden’s Own Fully Slick (sealer) 



 
I think the results speak for themselves. 
 
Still isnt a professional job by any means. And one day i think id like to get it done by a pro, to try get some of the scratches and swirls out of it that i cant. But for now, it looks a lot better than it did. 

 
*just dont look at it up close*