OLM8

I get a kick out of this thing only costing me “beer money” It’s not pretty up close, unrestored , original, 50 year old crazed thin and shitty paint etc It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, and I get that. Out and about driving in traffic most fancy XY GT guys don’t even wave back. The old Holden blokes do haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! geez I’m learning everyday. My car still has the steelies that we’re on it when it was dragged off the farm. Still has the same spark plugs in it to. Haha gave it all “a tidy” and put some rego on it It’s a budget car. It’s cost me peanut money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have larger centre 12 slot rims 70mm dia I think they are Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for that info It’s definitely XY width. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the 2.77 highway diff like to drive ?? Rpm at 100km? with a 250 6cyl and SR 4 speed Is it way to “over geared” for that engine ? I did some asking around in the last few days and sure enough.. Got myself a 2.77 XY Diff fully complete , for the cost of a couple of boxes of beer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quote post="248440" timestamp="1590810950" the overdrive on a T5 with the 3.23 would be around 2000rpm. i've had the 2.92 and 2.77 with T5 and it's closer to What model Falcon had the 2.77 Diff ratio ? Was it available in the XY? I’ve never seen that ratio for sale Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for that will do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all Recently the carby housing on my stock 250log started to weep fuel while its being driven. I’ve checked the flange nuts and the 2 large screws that hold the carb to the throat housing, all tight. I’m suspecting it’s worn in the throttle butterfly shaft and actually weeping from there or possibly the mixture screw area. The still runs ok, however the idle speed can sometimes be erratic. I do believe the needle valve is not worn and the float level is ok as I have checked it. Have you guy’s seen this before? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was meaning not the whole input shaft but the small nose housing that the clutch throw out runs on. If that can be bolted / transferred straight from the 3 speed to the 4 speed box. There would be no need to either enlarge the Center hole of the bell or turn down the nose housing on the 4 speed. Due to it already being a match from the 3 speed bell. that’s how I understood it could be wrong Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the idea of possibly swapping the input snout from the 3 to the 4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The adaption of the single rail to 3 speed bell seems fairly straight forward. Centre hole enlargement and drill tap rh top bolt. I already have a complete Cortina SR gearbox so I was thinking the one I got today would be great as spare box or parts. I figured I would need a falcon or cortina clutch plate to suit the input splines of the SR4. My existing pressure plate probably can stay. The tailshaft I got today fits on the SR 4 speed so I figured I can put that yoke on my xy tailshaft and adjust its length as needed. Diff I could re ratio my housing with the crown wheel and pinion from the 2.92 diff I picked up today. Yes it would appear it’s about 50mm wider. Total cost not sure Unlikely to be even close to the cost of the T5 conversion? Today’s parts cost me $200 Plus a box of beer. Probably outsource the tailshaft and diff re ratio and gear box freshen up with bearings & gaskets seals. End result Hopefully a better driving car for modern traffic and highways. Here’s a pic from today’s parts haul Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for all that ! My current box - 3 speed borg column it is hydraulic on the passenger side. So I could easily adapt a SR to that housing.and keep the current clutch set up. I’m picking up all the bits late this afternoon so I can’t confirm the diff width at this stage. The seller “thinks” it’s XA or Xb but him or I don’t know for sure I will measure it up tonight. FYI with the T5 , I would also need the S10 style centre shift rear housing to move the stick forward as I don’t want to cut the bench seat. Hard to find one of those housings and the one made by that guy in Warwick QLD , he wants about $1580 wtf So the T5 cost is going through the roof. Getting quotes for the adapter bell and the centre shift rear housing plus the cost of the gear box , not to mention the cost of cut and shut the tail shaft , dead set would almost add up to what I paid for the whole friggin car. So anyway even if I re ratio my existing diff with the 2.92 crown wheel and pinion might be a option. So I guess in your experience you’re saying the 4speed SR with a 2.92 rear end is a really good combo ? All I’m looking for is better for driving in modern traffic and hwy. PS my engine is stock 250 log The one that you can Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PS my wagon currently has a 3.23 rear end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What a difference a day makes... I’ve just this morning scored a XA or XB , 2.92 borg high way ratio diff & another SR 4 speed box, both items complete with tailshaft etc and outwardly at least all in very good condition. It sure has me wondering if fitting the SR with my cortina rear housing and then the 2.92 diff is almost the same? or better?outcome as the T5. Only difference being it’s saving me a whole lot of money! For example I got quoted $650 plus freight, just for the CRS T5 bell housing. Your thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will use a CRS bell housing for this box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk