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motoSycho

New Motor for Rods Mad Maxy Ute

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Thought I would start a new thread for the motor and the million questions I imagine I will soon be asking. 👍

 

I'll be picking up the bottom end next Wednesday and then start putting the rest of it together. I swapped some bits off my spares ute for a motor that was being put together, and then sold on to my mate when the original builder got sick. So here is what I have as best we know, plus what I have purchased for it.

 

Block is 40thou over and o-ringed (no idea why).

Pistons are 8cc jobbies (we think).

Crank has been balanced.

Crow Cams cam 141550S https://www.crowcams.com.au/ShopbyProduct/tabid/92/ProdID/15317/CatID/317/141550S__FALCON_250_XD_CAM.aspx

Crow Cams double row timing gears/chain.

New lifters.

 

MSD StreetFire ignition.

New leads, spark plugs etc..

 

I just dropped off a D head to have a tidy up and get a valve job. Nothing fancy. No porting at this stage. I have Crower valve springs and Yella Terra Street Terra roller rockers to fit to it.

 

Extractors and the 2 1/4 exhaust into a sports muffler (no idea what it is) and no cat.

 

I have Redline Torker manifold sitting here as well, but no carby at the moment for it. I have, of course, the OEM manifold and Weber. I was thinking of running a 500 Holley.

 

New water pump and just picked up some EL thermofans.

 

All hooked up to a T5 with a new Exedy HD clutch and I also have a couple of disc brake diffs here I can use to replace my drum diff.

 

I was also going to use the EFI alloy rocker cover. Will this fit ok over the roller rockers?

 

I have two working carby distributors I can pick from, as well as an EFI one. I take it I just stick to the carby dizzy?

 

 

So that is where I am. I'm sure I have forgotten something, and I am sure I will have a heap of questions when I start putting it together.

 

Parts starting to arrive.

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That will be a nice grumpy cam, I think it's a speedway grind ("S" in the part number) and low-lift, narrow LSA. Pretty decent duration will give some sweet midrange punch.

The block might have been done for nitrous, turbo or meth with those o-rings. Not sure how well a standard gasket will seal or if the fire ring on it will either contact the grooved part or be clear of it.

All solid bits you have there, should be a sweet powerplant when done.

EFI rocker covers could have issues with bigger cams and roller rockers but this cam isn't that big, so you might clear it. It could be a case of using double gaskets. There are spacers that AussieSpeed make for this reason but be prepared to spend.

A 500 Holley is a much better choice over the usual 350, but even that might be a tad small for you at this performance level. 2-barrels are measured for flow at 3" Hg (pressure drop), 4-barrels at 1.5". So keep in mind that when a 500 is flowed at the same depression as a 4 barrel (1.5") it's more like 375cfm (ie half of a 750, which it basically is), and a 350 is more like 280cfm at 1.5".

I would seriously look at fitting a 4-barrel in the 470-570 range, as this would be more like what your engine wants. It would also have a more progressive throttle and probably be better on juice (2 smaller primaries to cruise on). Also 500s are very expensive for what they are (a truck carby, basically).

That's all I got for now

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

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i think if the EFi rocker cover doesn't clear, it may also only be on one rocker *(there's a step down in it to clear part of the efi throttle or plenm) people have had this low part cut out and welded in higher back in the day.

the bloke that did My head up on My gemini(still haven't got to it) said he'd weld My manifold cheap.. so that's some one you could ask to weld in a patch for it

 

 

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We will have to get the XFs together one day.

 

Yeah, I spent way too much time over engineering this engine stand today 😁

So the plan is that we can drop the new motor into the stand,and then lift it all into the back of the Dmax and ratchet strap it to the four corner tie down points in the back. Then I can put the tonneau cover over it.

 

The bloody thing is built from some heavy RHS I had laying about. I guess I could change it into an engine start stand later.

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Yep absolutely.. all these things need to fire are fuel and spark, so an engine run-in stand is a pretty good use for it when done transporting. Only issue is where to bolt the starter, but I have seen a dummy section of bellhousing face made out of flat bar so the starter has something to bolt to. That and the flywheel clearing the frame mounts on the lower part of the block are the only issues I can see.

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We will have to get the XFs together one day.


Sure thing mate, time is tight with my routine but if you're in town and the planets align, and social interaction is no longer verboten then sounds like a plan.

Sydney OzFalconers have been quiet for a while now, life gets in the way I guess. We had a few small meetups and runs and it was a lot of fun.

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3 minutes ago, gerg said:

Yep absolutely.. all these things need to fire are fuel and spark, so an engine run-in stand is a pretty good use for it when done transporting. Only issue is where to bolt the starter, but I have seen a dummy section of bellhousing face made out of flat bar so the starter has something to bolt to. That and the flywheel clearing the frame mounts on the lower part of the block are the only issues I can see.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
 

 I have an auto flywheel that came off the block on the photos, as well as the starter motor and auto bellhousing. I can cut those pieces off that are holding the rear up and extend the frame to bolt to the rear of the bell housing.

I reckon a starting stand would be a handy thing to have if I am going to be playing with these motors.

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2 hours ago, motoSycho said:

 

Bloody thing. I tipped it and the gearbox up accidentally and I had a wonderfully psychedelic pool of transmission fluid and coolant happening!

tip for new players..
get a spare tailshaft yoke to shove in the gearboxes(BW auto fits single rail and T5 manual also)

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Lol, I've got one. It's sitting on my bench with some other stuff ready to do the motor swap. I'll be pulling the T5 out as well to put the new clutch in.

 

I had a plastic bag taped on the arse of the original auto,,,,,,,, yeah, that didn't stay together 😁

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3 minutes ago, motoSycho said:

 

 

I had a plastic bag taped on the arse of the original auto,,,,,,,, yeah, that didn't stay together 😁

i learned in the early days(doing a mates car that we didn't have a spare yoke) 
get a plastic bag and tape it on, wrap a rag over the end and tape that on, plastic bag again and tape it up.. 

usually can bump the firewall without poking a hole in it.. if it does it may not piss out.

i have seen plastic cap things designed for it in Repco or somewhere.  

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Ouch! Those Aussiespeed rocker cover spacers are expensive!

 

Luckily we have a waterjet cutter at work that will do some jobs for me 😊 So I'll see if they can cut one for me. Would 8-10mm be thick enough to make sure I have plenty of clearance? Also getting some shock tower spacers cut 👍

 

Right! Off to Autobarn to pick up a heap of parts that have come in for me.

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8 minutes ago, motoSycho said:

Ouch! Those Aussiespeed rocker cover spacers are expensive!

 

Luckily we have a waterjet cutter at work that will do some jobs for me 😊 So I'll see if they can cut one for me. Would 8-10mm be thick enough to make sure I have plenty of clearance? Also getting some shock tower spacers cut 👍

 

Right! Off to Autobarn to pick up a heap of parts that have come in for me.

if you are getting one cut, and it's repeatable? you could get a "spare" one cut or a few perhaps.

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1 hour ago, gerg said:

I reckon 6mm would do it, as you're using 2 gaskets as well

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i thought you'd silastic one side to the rocker cover or head face, then use a gasket on the other face? 

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i thought you'd silastic one side to the rocker cover or head face, then use a gasket on the other face? 
Yeah that would work if you know everything's straight. I like Dirko or ThreeBond myself.

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