Mr Polson

Can't fit power steer to a three speed manual unfortunately. The shift linkages will foul on the bigger power steering box. You'll have to stay manual steer or convert to a 4 or 5 speed on the floor.
Ute didn't (and still doesn't) have power steer, but I did fit a ZL column to it, had to extend the length to suit the manual steer box.

Pretty sure it's on the shelf at all Repcos. If not all, definitely the vast majority.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-heavy-film-soft-seal-300g/p/A7681836

Pretty sure it's on the shelf at all Repcos. If not all, definitely the vast majority.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-heavy-film-soft-seal-300g/p/A7681836

Early fg motors have the b series dipstick blank, later ones don’t.

Simply should bolt on but your dipstick will be in the wrong spot and FG motors don't have a spot to have BA dipstick drilled.
Oil pickup will also be different.

Wiring and PCM will be different, there's quite a few differences between BA and FG, such as locked dual variable cam vs independent variable cam. FG PCM will be designed to run a 5 or 6 speed auto not 4 speed. Not sure how you'll get around that.

Have fun with trying to flatten out the gasket in the Ryco kit. For some stupid reason they roll them up and put them in a box.

What gearbox?

Oh yeah, I'd stay electronic if you can get decent branded stuff.
If I was keeping the Cruiser motor I'd have gotten a Pertronix electronic ignition, but once it's Barra'd it'll obviously be distributor-less so I could make do with points for a few months.

Based on my experience with cheap electronic dizzy conversions, either ditch it and go back to points, or get something decent.

I had quite a few issues with my Cruiser when I got it, running rough, missing, hesitation under load, backfiring, stalling, all disappeared once I went back to an original points distributor.

Completely forgot to get a photo the other day.
 
My ute doesn't have, and has never had AC so can't help with that much. It is a 89 model so has EST, and did have plenty of emmisons rubbish that I've removed
 
Overview
 
These are either for AC (never fitted) or a PTC heater that was definitely on early 3.3L and I've heard some late model 4.1 had them as emmision control? It was basically a heated element for while the car was cold. Either way mine doesn't have it there.
 
 
 

 
Fuel cut off solenoid. Closes off the fuel circuit when car is off to prevent anti-run on. Will run with it disconnected, won't idle, and runs poorly.
 
Red wire from carb is the throttle position sensor/switch. Pretty sure it only knows if throttle is on or off.
 
Yellow wire is 7V supply to auto choke from carb. Only hooked up for this photo I have the choke wound way way way off and the yellow wire off normally.
 
This shows dizzy plug, on the dizzy itself, temp sensor wire (red one going to front of motor) and another emmisions connector, something to do with charcoal cannister I think.
 
Another connector here for something. No idea what.

Does this help? Straight out of the Ford workshop manual.

Does this help? Straight out of the Ford workshop manual.

You'll have to block one of the hose outlets from the head, and run the other one to the heater core, and then one from the water pump to heater.
Heater tap should be in hose from head, and that should go to the centre most heater pipe according to the workshop manual.
 
These are the diagrams from the Ford workshop manual, I've included both carby and EFI because really you're running the EFI style heater hose now

You'll have to block one of the hose outlets from the head, and run the other one to the heater core, and then one from the water pump to heater.
Heater tap should be in hose from head, and that should go to the centre most heater pipe according to the workshop manual.
 
These are the diagrams from the Ford workshop manual, I've included both carby and EFI because really you're running the EFI style heater hose now

It's in!!!!!
 
Now to hook everything up.
 

We have one on the shelf, but the Repco ones use M8x1.25 bolts so no idea on what yours will be.

Thanks man, I ran an M8x1.25 tap through it and all good now 👍
 
Today's job is to get it off the engine stand and get the flywheel, clutch and gearbox onto it!!!!

We have one on the shelf, but the Repco ones use M8x1.25 bolts so no idea on what yours will be.

I don't think we keep xflow water pumps on the shelf anymore, but if we do and I remember at work tomorrow, I'll check what size the replacement pulley bolts are.




Replacement pump would have metric thread machined into the hub.

DB1075GCT for fronts (if Girlock caliper), in standard Bendix. Swap GCT for HD for heavy duty.

DB1045GCT if it's got the PBR calipers.

DB1078GCT for the rears. Bendix only do the rears in GCT option.

I ran HD Bendix pads on the front of my FG when I got it, and found them to be rather dusty. Both my XFs have GCTs and pull up pretty comparably (minus the 30 years difference). GCTs are definitely less dusty than the HDs, and are also cheaper.

Mr Polson is on it.
Exactly what he said. I've raced tarmac a few times on DBA T2's Slotted only, with bendex ult pads. The pads ended up getting cooked but rotors survived, so they well over 550deg C. and i've swapped to a higher temp compound pad for now.
For street use. Standard bendex are easily available, and good reliable quality. You dont need ultimates or special compounds unless your racing.

Do not get crossed drilled rotors. They are for looks only.  Cross drilling atcually reduces the effectivness of the rotor as it lowers thermal mass. It also create failure points making the rotor more prone to flying to bits on the track. 

 

DBA slotted T2s are probably the best rotor for the street.

I wouldn't recommend Bendix ultimate for the street, they need to be warm and used hard to be effective.
Normal Bendix pads should be fine, of Heavy Duty if you don't mind some dust.

DBA slotted T2s are probably the best rotor for the street.

I wouldn't recommend Bendix ultimate for the street, they need to be warm and used hard to be effective.
Normal Bendix pads should be fine, of Heavy Duty if you don't mind some dust.

Thats either expensive or mine were cheap, at $250/wheel.

Circuit breaker is definitely the issue.
They look slightly different these days but should be on the shelf at most auto stores (or at least most Repcos).

Link is for a 25A one which doesn't seem very common as it's warehouse stock only, but 20A and 30A are readily available.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/fuses-circuit-breakers/narva-circuit-breaker-auto-reset-25a-1-pce/p/A9263889

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.