Mr Polson

Dual cams, variable intake runners and variable cam position it's pretty on song from about 3800rpm

Should've bought something Barra powered... Two bolts for me to change the thermostat on the FG

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Because if they did, when new pads are fitted the handbrake would barely have to be on to engage, but by the time the pads got to 50-75% wear you'd nearly have to get in the back seat to pull it far enough on.
At least I think that's how they work.

Ford "fixed" the handbrake issues by going to the Banksia style (drum shoes inside the disc rotor) in late Eseries, problem with those is they need adjusting pretty much every service.

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Thanks for the post mr polson. Pulled me out of trouble.


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The computers are the same between Auto/Manual but different between leaded/unleaded, are you 100% they've been the right computers?

It is normal for them to idle without the AFM connected - or least mine does, from memory. Not as smooth as with it plugged in.

I'd be checking earth's and wiring. Has the dash been out before? The ECU wiring runs behind the dash, maybe it's been damaged somewhere out of sight?

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The computers are the same between Auto/Manual but different between leaded/unleaded, are you 100% they've been the right computers?

It is normal for them to idle without the AFM connected - or least mine does, from memory. Not as smooth as with it plugged in.

I'd be checking earth's and wiring. Has the dash been out before? The ECU wiring runs behind the dash, maybe it's been damaged somewhere out of sight?

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Later model cars they are different as the autos became electronic, but in a XF they were still completely hydraulic operated. The gearbox knows how much throttle is open by the kickdown cable, and the engine doesn't care what gear the box is in.

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Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days.

I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper.

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Later model cars they are different as the autos became electronic, but in a XF they were still completely hydraulic operated. The gearbox knows how much throttle is open by the kickdown cable, and the engine doesn't care what gear the box is in.

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Later model cars they are different as the autos became electronic, but in a XF they were still completely hydraulic operated. The gearbox knows how much throttle is open by the kickdown cable, and the engine doesn't care what gear the box is in.

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Doesn't matter what gearbox for the computer.
@Panko swapped his XF Ghia from auto to manual years ago and still has the original auto computer. I'm not even sure there was a different computer for gearbox for EFI. There is for EST but that's completely different


But, there ARE different computers for leaded fuel (pre 86, black lid airbox), and unleaded (post 86, blue lid airbox)

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Yep, they're shits of things..........  long nose pliers, or huge flat blade screwdriver and a shifter.  Otherwise, you'll have to pull them apart.
If you're buying new/reco ones, you better have a fat wallet. 

i was always toying with the idea of putting a v8 in one of those tiny honda vans like have the motor bolted midships and no tailshaft bolted stright to the diff

I have a work van, I can't decide if I like it or dislike it

Mechanically it's reliable, 210xxxkms of delivery driving and it's never had a mechanical failure.
Electrics play up occasionally, and parts can be tricky to come by - even for Repco.

It's an oddly comfortable vehicle too, although you sit on the seat in the car instead of in the seat in the car - if that makes sense. It's probably a common van seating position.

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They are a ginormous hunk of shit. You are better off blowing your money on drugs and alcohol. At least you won’t suffer while wasting your money.

If your not using the trans again just put a nail or pin punch through the back corner of the pan. Tech term is a 'controlled leak'.

Scored this off my old man from his Ford days. Some good info in here. Related to the EEC IV (Electronic Engine Control 4) used in XF Falcon/Fairmont/ZL Fairlane/FE LTD. Its focused on the first (leaded) version but generally applies to the unleaded version too.
 
 
Pages 9 & 10 refer to a manual gear switch - I believe this refers only to the four speeds as the T5 wasn't introduced until unleaded models, and the 4.1 never received the "single rail" 5 speed.
 
 
 
 

Maybe have a read of this?


http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7027-Ford-Registered-Technician-Bulletin---EEC-IV-(XF)

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I'd be thinking it has to be related to the ECU or the AFM.

The XF EFI system needs info from the AFM to run properly, and definitely to drive.
From memory they will idle with AFM unplugged but not drive with load.

Could be a wiring issue between the AFM and ECU?

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Disconnect the fuel pump relay, and give the key quick flicks to wind the motor over via the starter.

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Shouldn't be too hard to bolt the coil to the shock tower area on the passenger side.

I think Ford's logic of having it on the motor was to eliminate vibration from the road.

Have you checked the timing? And when setting it there is a plug that needs two pins shorted out to tell the EST computer not to adjust the timing.

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Ford ditched the drain plug on the 3spd autos in the 70's, my old man remembers the service bulletin - it saved them 8c per transmission pan to build them with no drain plug.

So yeah, undo the bolts and make a nice mess.

I keep meaning to add a drain plug into a spare pan for my auto in the wagon.

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Handy hints, Penrite Wheel Bearing Grease is just as water safe as their Marine Grease, whereas Castrol and Valvoline Wheel Bearing Grease is NOT marine rated at all.

I've and to convince a few customers to use Penrite WBG or another form of marine safe grease for their boat trailers, after seeing them buy marine wheel bearing kits but getting a tube/tub of Castrol HTB.

So even if your wheel bearings (particularly on a boat trailer) may have been done recently, there's no guarantee it was a marine rated grease.

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Handy hints, Penrite Wheel Bearing Grease is just as water safe as their Marine Grease, whereas Castrol and Valvoline Wheel Bearing Grease is NOT marine rated at all.

I've and to convince a few customers to use Penrite WBG or another form of marine safe grease for their boat trailers, after seeing them buy marine wheel bearing kits but getting a tube/tub of Castrol HTB.

So even if your wheel bearings (particularly on a boat trailer) may have been done recently, there's no guarantee it was a marine rated grease.

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Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
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