Free.51

Rear rotors

59 posts in this topic

Hey guys gotta do new pads on the rear & definately need to machine the right hand rear rotor as the pad was wearing unevenly and the inside of the rotor has grooves in it, my question here is should try to save $25 & not get the left rear rotor machined? Is the lh rotor still useable as is? Heres is a pic ve9d4bd1834f1f1354efd0cf7faef1fc9.jpg

 

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Good / Best practice to do them in pairs ;) 

 

If not you risk uneven braking or pulling. Yes even rears can cause a car to pull undr braking.

You will need to measure the thickness , minimum from memory is 22.2mm or thereabouts 

Free.51 and bear351c like this

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Yep, definitely do both........ As Gerg said, it'll pull, or lock up one wheel under heavy braking. 
 
Lol the other gerg

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gregaust likes this

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As always nothing is ever easy & now i cant get the pistons back far enough anymore so now i think i might just buy new rear calipers, the left rear is turning but not actually going in any further & the rubber boot is torn & stuffed & the drivers side wont turn at all any more its hard as fuck & the stupid tool keeps slipping off the face of the piston:(

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one of those pistons screws in anticlockwise from memory

i've nearly always wound those pistons back with multigrips.. because the tool sucks the wang

i am fairly sure i've ignored a torn boot on one or two in the past also.. shit things, really need a kit to be put through them all

 

e1e77f88-fafc-49d7-9251-e00212c46cc9.jpg

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Yep, they're shits of things..........  long nose pliers, or huge flat blade screwdriver and a shifter.  Otherwise, you'll have to pull them apart.

If you're buying new/reco ones, you better have a fat wallet. 

Mr Polson likes this

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Yep, they're shits of things..........  long nose pliers, or huge flat blade screwdriver and a shifter.  Otherwise, you'll have to pull them apart.
If you're buying new/reco ones, you better have a fat wallet. 
Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days.

I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper.

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Free.51 likes this

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need to get the slides SLIDABLE... i've had them stuck in needing a sledge hammer to remove(even with the stupid spring clip holders removed)


7zkrL04.jpg

Free.51 likes this

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Easy way of pushing them pistons back is take the handbrake lever off and whined the screw in then push the piston in at the same then u don't need to try turn the piston which is a shit of a idea

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13 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days.

I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Yeah Mark (xtreme karts) mentioned that

jca4 likes this

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Tried turning the pistons in with the multi grips but my multi grips (trojan one) are stuffed & slipping so thats that & the slides seem to move back & forth real easy with just the slightest tap of a hammer so i guess thats good so decided to clean the backing plates & brake assemblies & slide pins for shits & giggles

 

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Ok after a couple days mucking around & having to swap calipers for a second time the brakes are back on but when my bro & i went to bleed the lhr no fluid was coming out we tried a good 20 + pumps of the pedal but nothing the rhr bled straight away so took the car for a spin & the brakes seem good just like b4 so was wanting to know if driving it around for awhile will the fluid build up in the left caliper & should i try bleeding it again sooner rather than later? Or just leave it as is? Also had a cunt of a time getting the left caliper over the inner pad cos for some unknown reason it has a triangle protrusion so had to grind that down flush with the rest of the pad

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Your flex hose is ok????? I have had them close up with age. Being the LHR rotor was sus previous i'd be checking.

Could been some air trapped ? But if the hose was blocked would still give an ok pedal 

 

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Check the bleed nipple is not blocked, pull it all the way out, and try pushing the peddle slowly, and see if any fluid comes out.

ive even had the Caliper blocked with crud.

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that "protrusion" on the inner pad is there to locate the piston for the handbrake not to twist the piston with it when it rotates.. you may find that causes an issue?

i'd also pull the bleed nipple out, i usually run a bit of wire or drill bit through and blow through them.. or swap with a known unblocked one.

with the bleed screw removed it MUST flow fluid,if not it has to be a stuffed or kinked pipe or hose.

Free.51 and Outback Jack like this

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