Demmo

Gee is there still single cylinder listers engines about?     Just been thinking about the above comments about a single battery.  As all the jump starters seem to have alligator clamps I am wondering if you could change them over to 50amp Anderson plug so you could have a permanent connection hard wired to battery an plug jumper into it when needed  even if I use the newer lithium type over agm    ???? Thanks 

Gee is there still single cylinder listers engines about?     Just been thinking about the above comments about a single battery.  As all the jump starters seem to have alligator clamps I am wondering if you could change them over to 50amp Anderson plug so you could have a permanent connection hard wired to battery an plug jumper into it when needed  even if I use the newer lithium type over agm    ???? Thanks 

Cheers sparky  that info about the jumper being all small batteries was an eye opener think I will be staying away from them then.  I think I better do some more researching    Thanks again guys
demmo 

Thanks for that mr Dean    should be professor Dean of the XG. .  Now you have pointed me in right direction I can feel the heads of the screws   I was looking closer to either edge lol   All i gotta do now is limber up to try an remove the f…kers the fun may be putting them back    grr
thanks Demmo 

mate i did buy the glue   but the catch was you need the gun to go with it which was dearer   so that got put on shelf  lol   i ended up borrowing a hot plastic  staple gun  then bogged over it an painted it turned out better than i expected  there is some good videos of bumper repairs on youtube .
can't take a pic as the ute is gone.   now tinkering with another one but its a very  s l o w  job lol  
 

thanks for that have just ordered it from fleabay    hope postal services have pulled there finger out now vic boarder is open lol
cheers Demmo

good to see you guys learnt enough at school to understand  all that to get the air con working   way over my head and last time i had the au regassed costa lot   worked for a month took it back to my friend who is another like  "jacks mate"  so your not alone outback  lol   think the c.....t  left town years ago  but my cheap solution was engel 40  an windows down for cool down on long drives works a treat still works today but have to admit the h2o liquid is a lot clearer now lol   hope it all goes well for ya Grimmy
cheers demmo

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 🤔

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 🤔

thankyou to all who responded and thanks Mr Polson for your input   this input is what makes this site great      now as both batteries are starting to get a bit old  bit like me lol  I will replace both before I start to wander off. still have to do some mods to the old jap to improve my comfort an self containment  yet
cheers Demmo🍻 

thankyou to all who responded and thanks Mr Polson for your input   this input is what makes this site great      now as both batteries are starting to get a bit old  bit like me lol  I will replace both before I start to wander off. still have to do some mods to the old jap to improve my comfort an self containment  yet
cheers Demmo🍻 

what after building it  driving it  almost flying  in it   now you want to stop   🙄    just use a  ⚓ she'll be rite  mate haha
ps  some pics would help too

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 🤔

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 🤔

A busy Easter fixing the roof of the Millennium Falcon Longreach. Mounted the Kylo Ren lightsaber, (Red) the Luke Skywalker lightsaber (Green) and Obiwan Kenobe lightsaber (Blue)
Used the same hard foam board as a backing but painted black.
 

cheers for the info 👍

Picked up a couple of US army radio boxes from from 1967 to fit in the back of the side boxes.

 

 
 

 

 

that's great mate so when do you want to do mine ???  haha  glad to see another au done up 

just a thought  maybe you could get the bolts from Mandurah bolt supplies as you know what size ect  

M10x1.25

Ok so a few people have been chasing info on 4.0ls lately, so over some period of Time I will start posting what I know about 4.0ls as I have played with them for years , this first post is taken directly from a post i made in ph351's thread earlier today,<br /> Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />

I'm not sure if you're serious but anyway. You could most likely fit the biggest fuel guzzling lump of cast iron you can find under the bonnet considering they had the physically massive 5.4 dohc from factory. The real question is why would you? Can you afford to do it? If you can then why would you start with a BA and not an earlier model which can legally run an old school V8 and be way cooler? Is it worth the fine if you get caught? Your car would also be uninsurable. You could just buy a BA XR8 or 5.4 3V, put on an exhaust and CAI, have it flash tuned and probably make more power than the tired boat anchor you put in there. It would go ok, sound good and would be legal.

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my au did something similar the other week  and then stopped an refused to start. lovely 200+ks from home. local rac attended and after all usual checks decided to change the crank angle sensor and it run. so 5 days on it is still going. maybe same problem, not sure how you check it but I am sure someone hear will enlighten us.  cheers demmo

so my claim to fame is I shouldn't play with cars   period.   I undone the clips that held the wire harness and the two missing screws (not mine the cars)were there behind the wiring harness for the electric trailer brakes.  so know I have replaced the dash panel which works  and removed the wire and hardware for trailer brakes and some switch gear. now i can get my fat hand up under the dash ya!.  thanks 4 your help dean 
cheers demmo

OK some dissection of your plan:

"port & polish" - just port, not polish. Polishing is a waste of time and has a negative effect on fuel atomisation and air velocity.

"zero deck block" - good move

"40 thou piston" - only if it needs it. Boring gives a negligible increase in displacement and power, so just go the absolute minimum to clean up the wear.

"crow 14892" - might be a tad small for what you want. I would go a size or two up.

14770 - 214/224 510"/514", 111LSA
14550S - 219/223 510"/510" 106LSA (speedway cam, a bit cranky)
14686 - 224/224 507"/507" 108LSA (also cranky)

But the one you quoted might feel a bit wheezy on the track.

"stronger valve springs" yep good move. Go at least 115lb on the seat, high 200s on the nose. I got Crane Blue Racers pretty cheap. If you want the motor to live a long, happy life, invest in some good roller rockers. The stock rockers (with stiffer springs) will burn through your oil, wear out quicker and put stress on your valve stems.

"Megasquirt ECU" - can't comment on that one but they must be OK if they're still in business.

Now some more to add:

Get it balanced (pistons, rods). Invest in a good harmonic balancer. These engines don't like RPM with an untouched bottom end.

When determining how much comp you need, focus on dynamic compression ratio, not static. This means that you select your compression ratio based on how the cam works in relation to the piston position. There are online calculators that help you with this. On an alloy head, aim for about 8.5:1 dynamic. You need to know the engine parameters to input though, which will require other calculators to find.

This is a good site:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Be careful when shaving the head/block to zero deck the pistons. Your pushrod length will be affected.

A lighter flywheel does wonders for engine response and fast gearchanges. An 8kg zero balance 157 tooth Windsor one will bolt on.

The stock EFI bananas can start to get restrictive with only small increases in power. EA-ED logs are a good conversion, this also swaps intake piping to the cold side of the engine. If done right, the setup can look like it was made to be there.

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