blu xe

50mm bricky chisel along the edge where it chips over the gutter. Sit edge of the chisel along the trim piece you want off then carefully tap away with a hammer  till it releases. Keep working your way along resisting the temptation to just twist it off once you've got a run going. Take your time and be gentle cause once they are farked theres no bringing them back.

50mm bricky chisel along the edge where it chips over the gutter. Sit edge of the chisel along the trim piece you want off then carefully tap away with a hammer  till it releases. Keep working your way along resisting the temptation to just twist it off once you've got a run going. Take your time and be gentle cause once they are farked theres no bringing them back.

Not sure if its strictly house hold but its in my house hold . LOL.  Easy gleam mag wheel cleaner is awesome to get rid of water stains/ calcium build up on glass. Use it in a spray bottle spray it on and let it sit for 15 or so seconds then hose it off. Stains be gone. If they're really bad you might have to hit em a few times. Won't hurt two pack paint if rinsed quickly but not good on acrylic or enamel. Also need to be careful on anodised finishes cause it can mark them.

IMO if your going to be welding it your going to burn the paint on the quarter. Its a shit of a spot and your going to find as soon as you start welding your going to be chasing the rust over a bigger area as the metals going to be thin all around there. The result will be a heap of chook shit looking welds made worse by the body deadener melting between the inner and outer quarter with the heat from the welds. Soooooo in saying all that if the quarter paint is going to get damaged and need painting I'd be drilling out the welds along the wheel lip and cutting a section on the outer to give you much better access to the inner. I'd almost bet my balls that if the inner looks like that the outer is going to be not far behind it. If your not prepared to paint the outer wire wheel the shit out of the effected area so its as clean as you can get it and seal that up and body deaden it.

Glenn Seatons ford credit el has always been one of my favourite race cars. Loved that car.

Never make any friends in the dirt when you start going fast...neighbour told me that one years ago and it seems to ring true in any sport really.Competition brings out the best and worst in people.

Not easy but doable with an rrs kit and notched towers.
There is a nice late model v8 that as good as fits straight in, cheap to buy too.

No you are wrong, I invented it all. You're extremely lucky that I am generous enough to share it all with you... Such is my vast, immeasurable talent that I am sometimes, wait... always in awe of myself for coming up with such mind-blowing, god-like, pure and original ideas. I also have a gargantuan, tree trunk-like penis.

Lol no I'm just a diesel mechanic. Besides I'd get the shits with first year apprentices carrying on like, well... 17 year olds.

Like Dave said, pressure wash the shit out of it. I use degreser though.

Dumped pipes are cool for the first drive after that they will annoy the shit out of you. They resonate through the car blow dust and shit out from underneath as soon as you steer off the black stuff and imo have a ordinary note compared to a nicely done full system.

Yep tend to agree with you. Definately Polynesian green.

Would be interesting to see how it stacks up. They are a pretty rare bit of gear these days aren't they?

If your going to the extent of chopping it where you've marked it you may as well just cut the whole bottom of the outer off. This will give you access to the inner also. Looking at what you've shown there I would almost bet my balls that there will be more to be found where the wheel arch comes round. It won't take all that much more effort. Cut it maybe 10 or 15 mm down from the swage line then drill all the spot welds out around the edges. By cutting it near that line it will help minimise distortion when you weld it all back together.

Now Stu and Smithy at Vintage racing prefer tri y's and concentrate on the collectors and sizing more.I did ask if either was keen to do so and they both said they could and would If I really wanted but they have had better results with the tri y's.Go figure...
 
So I have a ex port size of 1.29
 
extractor port of 1.45 
 
valve of 1.56
 
duration @ 50th of 275
 
lift of 709 (684 minus rocker clearance,see it's not that big)
 
12.4 comp
 
6.25 rod
 
3x50mm webers
 
250 shot of fogger...
 
Knock your selves out...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
OK maybe no gas but the rest is true...and I'm going to have a shower to get all this bog dust off me and clean up to see if I can pull a root later.

They were the shit before the high rise single planes came along.

Hahaha I only assumed painter since your reply was so intelligent and informative, very much the way a painter would prep a car. all the beaters I've worked with would be all like, "80 grit that shit in all damaged areas and bog the hell out of dents and end up with terrible edges etc"

This coming from the man who still says 'free' for the number 3 lol

Clean up back to bare metal then epoxy straight over the metal. This seals off the metal from the elements. Then guide coat and start blocking with 120 on a board file. Mark any lows that show up key up the areas and apply your bog . Then high fill as per usual. Block with 180 dry and reprime. 180 then 240 dry block and if it's a clear over base black 400 wet then 800 wet.

Lol , I'm not a painter I'm a beater. Slightly higher intelligence level than you painter blokes. That's why I know stuff !! Lol

Lol , I'm not a painter I'm a beater. Slightly higher intelligence level than you painter blokes. That's why I know stuff !! Lol

Lol , I'm not a painter I'm a beater. Slightly higher intelligence level than you painter blokes. That's why I know stuff !! Lol

Clean up back to bare metal then epoxy straight over the metal. This seals off the metal from the elements. Then guide coat and start blocking with 120 on a board file. Mark any lows that show up key up the areas and apply your bog . Then high fill as per usual. Block with 180 dry and reprime. 180 then 240 dry block and if it's a clear over base black 400 wet then 800 wet.

Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar.
While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself  from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first.  the sill should go close to being right from there.
To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.