Ando81

We all earn the same amount, not enough!!

Or even attempting to get the security bolts undo to remove the ecu.
I have done it on a ute that was miss firing and as I poured the water it stopped the miss. I did another 20,000km in that ute with no further problems

Sorry, only just saw this post. BAs were reknowned for dry solder joints in the ecu which causes random misses. Boil the kettle and pour it over the ecu, it will soften the solder inside and fix the joints. Be wary changing spark plugs in these as they snap in the head. The first of them had problems with the timing chain tensioners, you hear it clattering on a cold start up and if it is really bad the noise will always be there.

Thanks fellas, a bloke also suggested that it could be a worn timing chain too and the cam sensor may not agree with the crank angle sensor which sounded reasonable too.

My wagon has what is essentially an au 220kw Windsor in it (It's not actually one I built it using an el block and au parts) when I bought the car it has a single 2.5 exhaust on it, it now has a twin 2.25 with an x pipe and straight through mufflers, the twin exhaust sounds better, goes better and is better on fuel than the single 2.5 was
 
 
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Lol at least he didnt stack it like half the commo driving dickheads do out this way.
Always fun to see a fresh set of skidmarks that end with chunks of bumper and glass....fuckin spastics

Good advice here!
Once again Penrite shines through, a great Australian company!

Hi all, I thought I should start a trailer bearing thread here as we all probably have a trailer or two. Yesterday I was getting my fishing boat ready to take away for the long weekend and thought I’d better jack up the wheels and check bearings for noise and free play. Well there wasn’t much free play but boy was there some noise. It’s a single axle and both sides were rumbling. I’ve only had the boat for 2 years but the week prior to my buying the boat the previous owner had new bearings and seals done throughout. He had a receipt for work done so I know it was definitely done. Even with proper marine seals fitted I noticed some water had gotten into the inner bearing and turned the grease into black gunk. I bought 2 new bearing kits and new marine seals and packed them with Penrite marine grease. I’m hoping to get a bit more life out of these new bearings as the other ones would have been luck if they did 1500 kms. Do me a favour and check your wheel bearings on your trailers next time you’re in the shed please legends, it may save you a lot of heartache being stuck on the side of the road. Does anyone on here use Dura-Hub bearing caps? I’m thinking of changing my trailers over to their system running bearings in oil instead of grease as they have a clear plastic window on the outside so that you can monitor oil level and see if it changes colour from contamination.

The Dura-hub is basically just a cap that replaces a standard bearing cap but has a clear plastic front and a plug that is removable for topping up the oil level. Most common bearing buddies are a spring loaded system where you grease a grease nipple and a spring pushes approximately 3psi of pressure onto the outside of the hub to help hold the grease pressurised in there so contaminants cannot enter the hub.

Carefully grab them with one hand - throw them in the nearest bin. Get Felpro 302W Neo seal.  Knock out rope seal retaining spike from cap, install Neo seal as per instructions inside Felpro packet - live happily ever after with an engine that doesn't leak and doesn't have parasitic drag loss from a crap rope seal. 
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The bloke who bought the motor got it fired up 1st go he texd me thismorn,going in a xe ute.

Glad you got her running good mate. As for rust repair, check out the repairs Rod “2redrovers” has been doing on this forum. Thread title is “my cars and whatever’s in the shop” or something like that. Outstanding quality of work, not just a cheap patch up job that’s for sure

It depends what type of diff it is mate but when I had limited knowledge and tools I just bought a complete second hand diff and swapped it out. Pretty simple job but removing a centre can be a bit more laborious.

Mine was an original ford gasket and well stuck, finally got it all nice and clean then someone suggested a good coat of hylomar. Brilliant I thought, till the bloody head bolt broke on final torque down so I had the pleasure of repeating the process all over again 🤬

Mine was an original ford gasket and well stuck, finally got it all nice and clean then someone suggested a good coat of hylomar. Brilliant I thought, till the bloody head bolt broke on final torque down so I had the pleasure of repeating the process all over again 🤬

Yes All in order mate,going tomorrow to get some assembly lube, the new lifters are in a bucket right now pruning up hopefully tomorrow I can go putting all together! Will keep you guys posted if you like, new to this forum but loving the experienced help. 

Thats exactly the direction i was going with the question , 
have heard of pushrods being bent trying to fight against valve spring tension . 
Ive always done rockers up by winding over to get the cam lobe away from the lifter on each available cylinder 

I don’t want to sound like a smart arse but I think dex might have been suggesting that the motor should be turned over so that when pulling the rockers down that it’s not fighting valve spring tension. That’s just the way I understood what he was saying as previous conversation was that the motor shouldn’t be turned over too much without oil being properly primed up

I don’t want to sound like a smart arse but I think dex might have been suggesting that the motor should be turned over so that when pulling the rockers down that it’s not fighting valve spring tension. That’s just the way I understood what he was saying as previous conversation was that the motor shouldn’t be turned over too much without oil being properly primed up

I was thinking the cam could be badly worn and giving slack in between the moving parts from lifters to rockers and on top of the valves. Also, if the car has been parked up for a long time without being started then the lifters can drain out their oil and not fully pressurise and take up slack between pushrod and valves.

That sucks mate but yeah props for admitting your error and not blaming everyone else possible. I can understand you being keen to give it a thrashing, I’d be exactly the same. I hope you have a positive outcome

That sucks mate but yeah props for admitting your error and not blaming everyone else possible. I can understand you being keen to give it a thrashing, I’d be exactly the same. I hope you have a positive outcome

Triple weber Crossflow FTW!
 

I got an aerosol can mate and it was awesome on the alloy head on my crossy

Yeah I've cleaned it multiple times to make certain every last particle has been washed out of it just wasn't sure on the mating surfaces but if its all good then I'll leave them like they are. I'll probably chuck it in mums dishwasher when she's not looking just to make sure everythings completely clean