Hofiveo

Yeah I will only pick up about 30mm, if I had to pay someone to do it I wouldn't bother. Not going to cost me anything but time and I'd hate to want the extra room after it's been painted and put back together.

You can get a single pak spot primer in a spay bomb for rub throughs and fry ups. Says it's suitable under two pack systems as well. Ive used it under two pac and no problems so far. 2 pack primer would be better and seems to work fine on small areas of bare steel.

Gt Ford performance shop. 750 bucks. Suppose to be an exact replica.

That's the one. Xf control valve has two vac lines and xe has one. The box and flap are the same. The little black lever that the control arm connects to snaps.

If you can move the recirculation flap by hand with no resistance then that will be the problem.

That's the one. The flap has a foam seal normally but it will be crumbly and long gone by now. Could be a vac leak somewhere. Some Xf's had an xtra vac canister in the front plenum and some don't. Check the rubber boot that connects the hard nylon vac line to the motor because they split and leak.

Cold air in the passanger side foot well will be a broken fresh air recirculate arm on the vac controller. Bastard things are a broken more often than not from my experience with xd xe xf's. Dash out job to fix it to.

Got mine done a few years back in grey velour. Gave them my old one as a pattern and picked up the new one. Fitted it myself. Cost 200 bucks from memory.

My first xe had a 2.53:1
Great for highway bad for getup and go.

My first xe had a 2.53:1
Great for highway bad for getup and go.

That looks awesome. A real credit to you mate.

All finished (for Now)
 

 
 

 
 

Found out today that the little 302 pulled 750NM or 555 ft/lbs of torque at the rears, that's fair grunt.

Not really an upgrade but check the carby is opening fully. Was tinkering with my xf today and the cable is that stretched it was barely opening the secondries. Adjusted it as much as I could and still won't give full throttel. Time for a new one.

Now for some bigger gains, webber carby mods. Without changing the venturi size or throttle blades you can make a webber flow just as much as a stock 350 holley. just by cleaning up the imperfections in the venturi casting and gasket matching the whole thing you can gain just over 10cfm of flow through the carb,
 


 
Here is the big gain that I will share, I got the throttle shafts machined down a bit, I got it machined only as wide as the throttle blades and down level with the flat parts that the screws fix to, then the same amount off the other side, I did this to both shafts.
 
Original shaft
 

 
Machined shafts
 



 
On the flow bench this gave a 34cfm gain so with the other cleanup this carb now flows 308cfm, once I get my carb top back I will test it again and I'm confident it will go over the 350 holley flow rate of 320cfm.
This is the prototype of my webber carb top.
 

Some quick and easy things to do is modify the aircleaner housing to let more air in as the stock snorkel and cold air piping is very restrictive, a stock webber flows 260cfm and the aircleaner housing reduces that down to 235cfm, use a holesaw and make some breather holes on the other side of the housing.
 

 
If you don't want to put holes in it or your not allowed to put holes in it then remove the rubber seal that is in the lid, this creates a small gap around the whole assembly and allows more air in.
 

 
If you want to make it even better and have no restriction at all put a rubber spacer on top of the aircleaner element, I have flow tested and you only need to raise the lid 6mm to have no restriction, I used some mdf rings to get the total height needed to register minimum restriction.
 

Be very interested to see how they turn out with clean up. Looking forward to seeing the numbers on the stock heads aswell.
Be great to see some pics of how you go about cleaning up the 2vs when you get around to them.

with the price of fuel id never have close chamber heads funny my ute has them and monsta comp and its not a happy camper at all on any form of pump gas
 
open chambers are the go on any basic street engine
 
open chamber heded clevo in action bout time i thru this up on this forum stock 351 bottom end unported cast heads, i dont think this engine was even ballanced LOL and it cracked on the road it would burn the tyres doing 100kmg and all you had to do was push the go pedal
 
ran 12.0 on the day well a few times and with no sorting and about 6km on the clock
 
 

Gday all. When I started this th read it was to get an idea of what peoples thoughts on this were. I've always been curious about doing it but was never sold on the idea. XPTcrossy link to the megajolt would probally be the best option for spark control. At the end of the day it was just an idea. I could see the cost of a conversion like this getting up pretty quickly and if I was going to play with a six again id throw the money into one of my trusty tractor motors. Until l then i will stick to my clevos and weezors. Cheers for every ones input

I just wanted a little touch

I found this while trolling YouTube. Its not a barra, but a coyote fitted with a carb, cams locked, and some fancy ignition system.
 
Plus it sounds mean and pulls some good numbers for a NA 302.
 

http://www.autosportlabs.net/Megajolt_Lite_Jr.
 
Any reason why this wouldn't work? I agree it's a step backwards and the cost of doing either wouldn't be that far different in the end, but the guy wasn't asking what's better he was asking if a carby could work.

I'm stupid but don't give a f