judgetread

Id always go roller, too many benefits not to do it.
 
less hp to turn, roller cam dont wear out as quick. Use same lifters on multiple cams. and many many more

This is wrong. You tune to what the engine tells you it wants based on use not targeted figures. Doesn't matter what the figure is and TBH most innovate units will shit them selves pretty quick where as the AEM and such last forever.Better off actually getting it tuned on a dyno. 

yep wringle finish type reaction is a whats happens mate. Its always best to keep tosame types of paint if you can, but ive done  the 2k over acrylic many many times as well, if you let it dry it usually works ok

its should all be compatible. Only advice I can say is if its 2k clear over acrylic you have too "MUST" let the acrylic
 dry out completely before clearing over it.
 
Remember its 2 completely different systems, acrylic basically evaporates the thinners in the drying process whilst the 2k is a chemical drying reaction. If there is any trace of solvents still in the acrylic
 it will try to come through  the 2k and react. Been there way way way... way too many times ....
 
Any pics of the reaction?

I made up my own brew when I was younger and less inhibited by common sense. If it's a work hack it's just fine. I used some grey primer mixed with body deadener as a base, and to that added some water-based acrylic house paint. The idea is that the two dissimilar paint bases won't mix, so they go on with a splatter effect. It worked quite well actually but won't be anywhere as durable as the legit stuff.
 
Just don't use a nice spray gun, in fact the cheapest, roughest gun out there will give the best results. Ozito makes a domestic one for 39 bucks and it's awesome (painted a ceiling in a Cafe recently with one).
 
When spraying, you have to keep shaking the pot regularly to keep the two paints from separating.

These coil overs look like a nice mod, great for improving handling and adjustable ride height. RRS may seem expensive however the money you spend to setup stock modified suspension properly is not actually cheap either. I have done both, and you will always suffer from shithouse ball joint angles trying to run any decent camber. If you want serious handling you need to cough it up. Just the RRS struts were 3.8 seconds a lap quicker than the stock modified setup, and it handles and rides like my FG. The best thing for me was engineers will sign off on any RRS product with no testing. Plenty of aftermarket options these days out there, which is great for the box models.

So your wanting to drag race this thing then? Just ditch say 2-3 springs,sort your pinion angle by chocks and fit some Calvert traction bars and shocks.Then go stand it up...

Thread tape is only for use on your home plumbing . It has no place on a carburetor     If you have a leak at a flare fitting it is dodgy. Assuming it is a chrome fuel rail?? Some don't seal  

I have read much on these suckers,weiand say 8.5.1 is the good ratio for a street app with 9.1 being about the most and 7.5 the least,the kit comes with the largest snout pulley which will give you not much boost but smart buyers get a few smaller ones while ordering their kit,a nice street combo will work ok with just the std pulley,weiand say will give 40% more power and its probly spot on,our dollar is starting to climb and im also waiting for it to go up to import one from the usa,price motorsports do a kit to suit a cleveland,but after spending $5000 on it,you wonder why you didnt just put a set of the latest alloy heads and roller cam and roller rockers and your probly gunna get the same result,

I'll just leave these here,
 

 

 
Got some more stuff coming later this week. Getting a little bit pumped.

well no news yet except piston and handbrake move freely. May have been the rubber around the piston was stick behind the inside pad and pushing everything out of wack, so will be getting a rebuild done this week to be sure as the rubbers rooted anyways. Also have replacement plate the caliper bolts to just in case its bent.
 
So while nothing was found to be the exact problem, just going to try throw new everything at it I can.
 
Also  while I was there pulled the axle for a spline and bearing check and all's good there.

Calipers been overhauled.??  Could be piston seizing in bore.? All the self centre-ing pins free? Is there markings on both sides of the rotor? 

I had to overhaul the callipers too. Common as. I could hear mine scraping when I walked next to the car with the misses driving
 
 
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XF? The handbrakes always seize, shit calipers. Half the ones I buy for parts I have to knock the levers on the caliper back around before they move. The pistons seize in the bores too. Just like EA-ED. I still have a box of spares after having to buy one from a wrecker on a public holiday for stupid money.
 
Anyway I'd rebuild the calipers.

ok the crossie is out !

What what what ? A Prius.
 
Dude that can not happen again...ever...ever...ever.

i got the car back from the diff shop and it is so quiet,i was shittin hard that the bill was gunna be $700 or $900 and the bloke only charged me $220 i was stoked,he said the gear meshing was out and the pinion cup wasnt sitting flush because of me whacking out the old ones and damaging the diff housing,but they said it was a good effort to get it as good as i did under the car 3 times,so all up $220 and $230 for bearings i allready paid for,good lesson learnt just give it to the experts !

Pump cam only really takes care of the shooters when you mash the pedal, Id look else where first as other factors have a bigger influence of it then the pump cams.
 
Firstly, does it bog or hesitate? too different things, could be not enough fuel or to much fuel. Does it do it when you mash the pedal only or when a steady increase is applied? Does it surge at light pedal? or when it stumbles  does lifting you foot off a little clear it up? Does it blow black smoke at any point driving it?
 
Figure out what it doing, raise or lower the float firstly and see it helps or worse. Floats can have a big influence on the way it drives and behaves. Then look at the powervalve, you may need to bring it on sooner or later, again depends on what its doing now.

Been a while since i have put an update up here, I finished off the last season well then sort of missed the mark in the finial shootout, still learning the car.
 
I have now just been fine tuning the little things and trying different things as well. We did a couple of test n tunes in dec & jan trying a new gearbox pickup setup and changed the cam sensors from magnetic pickup to hall effect of coarse i had to make some mounts for them and they are different intake to exhaust side. I also deiced to get rid of the original door trims and make up some alloy sheet versions to replace them because race car and all. That was all done before the start of the new season.
 
I ran a 1/8th mile radial race recently and had wanted to try E85 again in this engine. So to do that I changed out the injectors then its all in the keyboard tell the ecu what injectors you have, what the molar mass of the fuel is and a couple of other fuel settings and the ecu will re-tune the petrol map to suit E85. The car performed about the same which was expected but man E85 burns nice, all the tops of the pistons were cleaned and all the plugs were nice and clean. I deiced to leave it for now though and head back to 98 and run my regular season on it though.
 
We have been fine tuning the cam timing particularly the exhaust cam. When changing the sensors to hall we now have a better signal and have found some gains there. I can't wait for some cooler weather as so far it's about a 10th of a second faster then this time last year!! Also willowbank have changed the et cutoff for the series I run from 11.50 to 10.50 so no dramas trying to slow the car down in winter.
 
check out the facebook page as well
https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Stoodley-Racing-1558367151083789/?notif_t=page_user_activity

 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks for all the input guys I ended up going with a Holley Electric Gerotor 125 GPH  , I have a mate who has an XY and he fitted one to it and says it works a treat , some mods are needed to fit the existing tank but went with 1/2" aluminum pipe gonna P clamp it to the chazzie rail and 1/2" braided lines .

A mechanical pump on a performance engine should have a reg too.How ever in most case alot of guys get away with it. Prime example Tony Spazenoski who won this year NAT ASP 6cyl dyno comp ran a mechanical pump on his 265 to supply his webbers. No biggey issue was that @ idle the carbs were copping 5 plus PSI of fuel pressure where as webbers want under 3PSI at most.
 
You could find a HV mechanical pump to push 7-8 PSI which is too much.So back to original question I base the answer on use v's HP.If a daily mechanical with dead head reg if a more performance weekend warrior Id use a electric and return reg set up.
 
P.S Dig the little Windsor and thread moved to Windsor section Interested to see how it goe's on the the dyno.

For your viewing plesure here's a pic of my baby[attachment=1160:347

Alrightttt, today has been a long day, went to get a wheel alignment on the car, and turns out one of my sleeves has busted itself and won't tighten no matter what, so I am sourcing one of those.
 
In regards to whats happened with the timing, I have followed almighty and wise gerg's words, and cranked the advance all the way to 30 degress, at idle it wasn't too happy. But then I made a small curve on the MSD, got the idle at 15degrees and then basically moved it up from there.
 
OMG WHAT A DIFFERENCE, so basically alll the issues I said about the carb are gone, I have acceleration and power and just everything. I am so happy with it, and I thankyou so much to all you guys, especially Gerg for this awesome help.
 
So here is where I stand, smashing the motor around, I have slowly started cleaning the MASSIVE carbon composite on the spark plugs. Now there is still a little there, anyone can give me a reason to massive carbon build up on the plugs?? Like I know running rich can be a cause, but the motor seems to be liking high jets, and use to have massive fuel delivery issue, so it was running lean for a while.
 
During the day I moved the jet sizes up to 36, it made a much better difference, I can't get idle to 650rpm however, lowest I can get is 750 running smooth, and 700rpm with a bit of stumble, if I go to 650rpm idle it has massive stumble and sounds unhealthy.
 
Now I made my curve more elaborate, and made it pretty agreeisve, I have put the car on the dyno, so I know the where the cam kicks in and all, there is ever so slight a flat spot at low rpm and tad throttle, but it really fucking pulls. However, I have a feeling it could still be running lean, like to lean. I may be wrong, but I too it for a drive with the 36 jets, and bit of tuning on the float level, and it guns it really well, but it feels like the engine wants something.
 
Now I have taken into consideration my airfilter may be way to restricing on the motor, I will upload a pic of it. But i checked the spark plugs after driving it with 36 jets, there, and there was no real smell of any fuel on the plugs. this is my reasoning to running a little to lean for the motor.
 
My thinking is, up the jets and mofidy the curve until I can smell a little fuel on the plugs, and then back one or two jets down from there.
 
Keep in mind I have not changed power valve, so that may make a difference.
 
thank you all again for the help, the car is becoming more and more amazing.

Pump cam only really takes care of the shooters when you mash the pedal, Id look else where first as other factors have a bigger influence of it then the pump cams.
 
Firstly, does it bog or hesitate? too different things, could be not enough fuel or to much fuel. Does it do it when you mash the pedal only or when a steady increase is applied? Does it surge at light pedal? or when it stumbles  does lifting you foot off a little clear it up? Does it blow black smoke at any point driving it?
 
Figure out what it doing, raise or lower the float firstly and see it helps or worse. Floats can have a big influence on the way it drives and behaves. Then look at the powervalve, you may need to bring it on sooner or later, again depends on what its doing now.

Pump cam only really takes care of the shooters when you mash the pedal, Id look else where first as other factors have a bigger influence of it then the pump cams.
 
Firstly, does it bog or hesitate? too different things, could be not enough fuel or to much fuel. Does it do it when you mash the pedal only or when a steady increase is applied? Does it surge at light pedal? or when it stumbles  does lifting you foot off a little clear it up? Does it blow black smoke at any point driving it?
 
Figure out what it doing, raise or lower the float firstly and see it helps or worse. Floats can have a big influence on the way it drives and behaves. Then look at the powervalve, you may need to bring it on sooner or later, again depends on what its doing now.