judgetread

So, finally got around to making a case for it all, and a few pictures.
 
Adding some standoffs for the pcb to sit on

 
pcb clipped in, I also made another board this time soldering the wires directly to the board. Easier, cheaper and less stuff to go wrong.

 
A hole on the bottom of the case, where you can adjust the trimpot. Remebering its a 90ohms difference you can set the range with it so like 0-90 or 7-97 or 8-98 etc.

 
Finished box

 
Just as a size comparison to a standard 9volt battery.

 
Overall, everything worked out pretty well, except I doubt id do a SMD component project again. Well maybe for the resistors and caps, but not the IC, they are just way to small and a pain to do.
 
I have everything to set it up done now, I just need to install the fuel cell and hook it up but that may be awhile or may not
 
 
Edit: I just did a quick sticker to wrap around it. well cause I was bored

similar setup to what im running, i used global west lower and upper, viking coil overs, rrs castor arms handles like a dream 

Much better than R(ip-off)RS... Man they know how to charge. Notice how their shit is hard to get a price on (ie: "call us"). One reason for that. They actually charge the yanks less than what we pay. Glad CRS is doing this really.

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Considering there are double adjustable as well I think I read..

This was posted on my stalker book feed the other day, wonder if there is any weight savings?
 
https://www.rodshop.com.au/ford/xr-xt-xw-xy/xr-xf-falcon-coil-over-conversion-kit.html
 
 

It's iron, so go slow with no lube (that's what she said)

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Steam hole is a misleading name tbh, its more like a vent hole to let trapped air out. You can do it yourself, just gotta be careful its 1/2inch thick there and can snap a drill quite easily...

Steam hole is a misleading name tbh, its more like a vent hole to let trapped air out. You can do it yourself, just gotta be careful its 1/2inch thick there and can snap a drill quite easily...

You mean to get the center of the steering column shaft down from a p/s to non-p/s one?
I did it, removed the box, put a slide hammer on the end of it and gave it a few good pulls came out pretty easy. No need to unbolt anything if I recall.

Engine uses oil and smokes too much, especially for 70,00 km.
 
So... heads are off, have been stripped and inspected.
 
1) Engine is pretty clean inside, probably because it's always getting fresh oil from needing to top it up
 
2) Oil deposits in exhaust port
 
3) Chambers were all like this. Plugs fouled but somehow ran fine (the MSD probably helped)
 
4) Weird scoring on one seat, either from new or from the valve face
 
5) Seriously crap daggy bits inside the ports
 
6) Anyone who likes umbrella seals, take a geez at this. Every one was at least split in 3 places, some smashed or missing the tops. I reckon they'd be softer if made from bakelite. At 70,000 km, that is rubbish
 
7) My head jig, for both disassembly and porting. The idea is that I can have both heads and all the ports lined up so I can be consistent with each shaping operation.

Been a while since I posted so I thought an update was in order. Had a guy who builds turbo motors come and have a look at the bitch and he was straight up with me about what was required.
He estimate of what it would cost to rebuild the motor, set up a decent engine management system and all the other crap necessary to make a reliable street car has forced me to look at other options.

My thoughts now are leaning towards a turbo barra transplant, most likely from an fg falcon.

The search has now begun for an fg turbo motor with all the bolt ons, computer and loom.

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Hi,
new here guys but this would be verry handy for my project. I have an xd falcon utility and have instaled a 5l v8 out of a eb falcon including the 4 speed btr automatic. To save clutter, mucking around and complication I have installed a fuel tank with built in pump out of a 98 xh falcon utility and of course I have the same probem as everybody else with converting the system to accept a resistance type sender unit. My sender unit measures outside the range specified in the above schematic being 2.2 ohms empty to 180 ohms full. I guess I could change the trim pot value to increase the operating range. How does the 7805 regulator go dropping the 12 - 14v down the 5v heat wize, its a fairly big drop. I had a thought to build a simple voltage divider using a 5v reg and the sender unit personally. Interesting use of the ic in the circuit. Have enjoyed electronics as a hobby for a long time but did not delve into the ic side of things that much. Not trying to steal the thunder from the previous bloes design cause it seems verry plausible solution, I have come up with my own design.  

So firstly I'm no electrical engineer or whatever, so if anyone see's any obvious issues, problem or possible explosive results please let me know
 
OK, so I didn't really look around so I have no idea if there is ant commercial  product out there that would suit this project already, but hey electronics had been a hobby for a fair while when I was young so I thought I have a crack at this myself, keep myself active and out of trouble. So yes it could be a waste of time if something already exists but I find it interesting to play and learn (and fail often)
 
I'm planning on adding a fuel cell to my xf ghia, getting rid of the standard tank and replacing it with a 60 or so litre fuel cell so it will suit my future plans.
 
Problem is, most aftermarket fuel cells come with either a 0-90ohm or 7-97ohm resistance fuel sender. The problem is this will not work for the xf fuel gauge as it uses a volt system 0.2 to 4.2 volts to display the fuel level. So the project begins, make a conversion from the resistance type fuel senders for a voltage based display gauge
 
 
The goals are:
* Gauge requires input of Volts: [ empty = 0.2 volts, full = 4.2 volts ]
* The sender, sends in ohms. [ empty = 0 ohms, full = 90 ohms ]
* Any power must be from the 12 volt DC system the car current uses, no external power or crap.
 
I drew up a schematic using a op-amp/comparator setup and a voltage divider. Added in a 5 volt regulator to the schematic from 12 volt to supply the currect volt and current needed for op-amp and resistor ratings.
I also adding in a variable trim pot, so within the same ratio other senders should work as well, such as 7-97ohm sender.

 
Using altium designer, converted the schematic to a pcb layout, adding in silk screens, overlays etc. Taking into account I didnt have any stuff available to make my own pcbs, the costs to buy all the stuff was not viable and I was planning on using SMD's, I designed to have them made.
 

So, finally got around to making a case for it all, and a few pictures.
 
Adding some standoffs for the pcb to sit on

 
pcb clipped in, I also made another board this time soldering the wires directly to the board. Easier, cheaper and less stuff to go wrong.

 
A hole on the bottom of the case, where you can adjust the trimpot. Remebering its a 90ohms difference you can set the range with it so like 0-90 or 7-97 or 8-98 etc.

 
Finished box

 
Just as a size comparison to a standard 9volt battery.

 
Overall, everything worked out pretty well, except I doubt id do a SMD component project again. Well maybe for the resistors and caps, but not the IC, they are just way to small and a pain to do.
 
I have everything to set it up done now, I just need to install the fuel cell and hook it up but that may be awhile or may not
 
 
Edit: I just did a quick sticker to wrap around it. well cause I was bored

So when it's all said and done this is how it looks.
 

 

 
Still a bit more to go, but it looks and functions way better now. I actually was focusing on the last couple of things I needed to do to complete the engine, like sump, alternator and vac pumps mounts etc etc. as usual I got distracted, but not really. It was all work that needed to be done at some time.
 
I'm going to make the mounts for the ecu and cdi and weld them to the replacement firewall panel before I weld the panel in. Much easier to weld them on the bench than inside the car.
 
"Why is it taking you so long to get this car going?"
 
"Cause I'm old, slow and fussy and I only like doing things once!"

As in a hooker after a feed of baked beans?

My 351 c
 

But always it's the little details are the ones that cause you drama. When Pat from Competition Systems supplied the ITB's 2 were identical and the other one was similar. The odd one out was the old version, but they were all supposed to be the same in regards to injector position etc etc. I did contact Pat when they arrived and he said it wouldn't be a problem.
 
Well maybe if you used the Jenvey rail as it has a flexible coupling. Because as it turns out the injector position is slightly (3-4mm) different. You can sort of see it in these photos.
 

 

 
You can see the extra thickness of the older version at the mounting flange and just see that the first 2 injectors are slightly out of alignment. I took the rail to the TIG fella anyway just to see what would happen once the injector bosses were all welded in, but it's a no go. He got the bosses welded in with zero warping and the bosses just don't go on enough to be 100% seated.
 
I rang Competition Systems and Pat was excellent. Acknowledge the problem and sent a replacement ITB the same day. That's customer service. It should get here next week, but I'm off to the States for a holiday so I'm going to have to wait till I return. Oh well.

That's a very good friend of mine's car. Jason Earl. Yes they have been stress tested. Jason ran a pretty respectable time in old 383AXE before he went skidding in it. Tuff that car.

They they clear the spring perch fine.
The top shocker towers have had a 6 mm plate welded across the top to stiffen it up.
 
These came off a burnout car (coilovers and towers) so they've had a hard life

Also got a delivery from the other end of the country. Phillip Island area to Cairns. Thanks goes to EnvyXf for making the bumpers and the Michelle for making the guards. She isn't just the co-owner and book keeper and receptionist. She gets out into the shed and makes the stuff. Lovely to talk to as well and a superbly finished product. Very happy.
 

 
The car didn't come with a rear bumper so the fibreglass rear bumper was a no brainer. While I was getting it I thought may as well get a glass front bumper. Then it flowed onto the fibreglass front guards as well. The corty came with a fibreglass bonnet so it sorta makes sense to make the whole front end glass.
 
Like is said way back, I'll be making this a very light, stripped out race car and I make no apologies for that.

check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed

 
The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em.
The top have a bracket  around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed

 
The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em.
The top have a bracket  around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

they are just QA1's. They have the eyelets on each end.