SLO247

if your carful peen the PV restrictions smaller with a nail punch and re drill them 25 thou
 
9x2 aircleaner will fit if its on a redline manifold
14x2 will fit if ya cut away some of the frame uner the bonnet

Nice to see you've joined the darkside.

I think, from memory, i have 60 jets (or there abouts), 8.5 power valve, and a 38 squirter. I think...
I remember when changing the power valve i also bent a thin guitar string into the powervalve holes in the metering block. Acts as a restrictor and i found my car definitely ran better with it in there. Stock apart from carby and exhaust.

It has been done before, my mate John (vannin) has an XF van with a 383 Cleveland with a C4 and its column auto. Deankdx had a Lexus powered XF ute that was column auto, somehow made it work with some mods.
 
What engine do you have? 6 cylinder of a V8? Column auto wont work with extractors with a V8
 
In your XF is fitted with a Cleveland you'll need the XA-XE V8 C4 linkage and bellcrank as the FMX ones are different.
 
If its a 6 cylinder you'll need the XA-XD 200 6 cylinder bellcrank (linkage that connects the column to the bellcrank might be the same, im not 100% sure) XD's that were a 200/3.3 xflow had the C4 while the 250/4.1 had the BW35 (Borgwarner 35)
 

 
This bracket is for BW35, works fine for me. This bracket the same to pre 86 XF's? You'll need the linkage to go from the column to the bellcrank.
 

 
Theres a bush that sits in the end of the column but i used a ribber gromet instead and it works, C4's and FMX have an elongated hole in the linkage for adjustment. You'll need the correct bolt too, 3 speed manual ones are the same as whats pictured.
 

 

 
Buy this bush kit off Ebay, its for the bellcrank as they age, crack, break apart and cause sloppy linkage issues.
Ebay link here -------> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-XR-XT-XW-XY-XA-XB-ZA-ZB-ZC-ZD-ZF-ZG-COLUMNSHIFT-AUTO-LINKAGE-BUSHES-/321464904540?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad8cd2b5c
 
 

 
They get sloppy here so i used a couple of washers to try and take some out, it worked ok but i need to drill the hole out and make a bush to suit.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Pictures were sauced from my XD V8 ute project thread ------> http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1926-marks-xd-v8-ute-project/

Ok, so people that know me also know that I excell at ghetto style, no-cost mods and seeing as exhaust shops want you to cough up pretty much the value of your car just to put a system on it, I have refused to pay anyone that kind of money, and instead have endeavoured to create my own using bits of crap I've accumulated over time.
 
This extends to even making my own mufflers.
 
I started with four BA Falcon cats that were saved from the scrap bin. I cut them at the start of the taper, 2 on the offset side and 2 on the straight side. More on why I did this later. I gutted the bricks out of them so they are hollow casings.
 
 
Here's one:

 
I cut up some 2.5mm gal sheet, bent them into chevron-shaped baffles big and small not unlike those inside a Flowmaster 44-series.
 
I welded them in so that there are 4 in each muffler, staggered so it goes big, small, big, small. Finally, I took one of the straight tapers (or nipples I guess) and welded it inside so it sits near the exit from the muffler so as to make an internal chamber after the baffles.
 
I'm basically making a copy (in principle) of a Flowmaster.
 
Here's a baffle:
 

 
Sitting in place:
 

 
I'll try and draw a diagram when I can get my hands on a PC.

Must be the shocks, and the bushes contributing.
 
In my ute I ran SL coils in the front with standard pedders comfort shocks. Rode really well and never bottomed out. I didn't trim the bump stops either.
 
Softer shocks should sort it but you may lose some handling? I haven't heard much good about Monroe shocks for years.

So, after doing lots of research and reading all the comments, (Cheers all), bought the kit from the 'States. Thanks Gerg.
 

 
Comes with 5 washers and a few instructions, a collar to hold the spool valve in the vice and a new O-ring.
 

 

 
Got a bloody "tennis elbow" from work last week, so wont be fitting it for a few weeks, but will upload pics and thoughts when done.  This a common mod in the 'States to put a Saginaw (usually GM) power steering rack in Mustangs. Will try 3 shims to start, drop the pressure to around 1000 psi. Later dudes......

Must be the shocks, and the bushes contributing.
 
In my ute I ran SL coils in the front with standard pedders comfort shocks. Rode really well and never bottomed out. I didn't trim the bump stops either.
 
Softer shocks should sort it but you may lose some handling? I haven't heard much good about Monroe shocks for years.

Slightly different tune and no speed limiter I reckon. Catch code will be different and part number will be a 94DT rather than 94DA to signify the Tickford shizzle.
 
Waste of money though honestly, you won't notice a difference. Done it all before.

Won't be too far off with a Camtech 270 degree solid.
 

Surely not 4.1 Xflow EFI.....Oh wait.... yeah your right

Was actually Matt that came up with that build... Wouldn't mind having a chat to Sean when he comes back about it though.
 
Been following that Mad Scientiest build pretty keenly. Ando that's actually a really good idea. Would you have a link for that?
 
Steve you're right, it would be more practical, but if I was worried about practical I'd just buy a BA XR6 and send the XD to the wreckers. No offense to you or the other guys who do it, those builds will haul arse, but I've always found old cars with modern engines to be a bit un-inspiring. Kind of like fake tits. Yeah they're big and heaps of fun but it's just not the same.
 
That, and EFI is the devil.

I like the wood wheels. Not sure why.

i've always swapped the est to the vac advance one when i had issues, often something was wrong with it.. just the 2 wires to the coil yes.
 
as for it working better.. not convinced, i've had good est things go well, put on the vac advance and noted no difference.
 
as for the webber.. pretty sure the idle shut off solenoid is the main thing, often 12v+ on ign, but some early ones were vacuum switched? wont idle without it.
choke usually gets 5V+? think its only 5, from the alternator. should run with out it if the manifold has water plumbed in and well.. it would be better as manual in that case.
unplug the EST computer.. or remove it entirely. i left mine in place plugged in often, but once had some wierd issue that was caused by a faulty est still connected.
 
 
if it works, dont touch it lol.. my new rule

All the rust in the inner panels has been repaired as well as the usual rust around the rear 1/4 windows.
 
Had to re-bush the driver door hinges and hang the door so that I could make sure that all the character lines met. They came up a treat. Had to deal with a bit of surface rust on the inner of the new panel as well. It has all been converted now and has a nice coat of industrial black. Should outlast me now.
 
Will finish welding the panel in tomorrow and then the Clevo heads are off to the flow bench. I think I need a break from rust work and with Easter coming up and a short week next week I reckon I might do some work on the engine. Since that is the purpose of this thread. Damn I wish I could stay on track.

Not so much engine work in the coming days. I started to repair what I thought was just a bit of rear 1/4 damage;
 

 
and ended up with this thanks to some freak thinking he needed to add 10mm of bog to the whole side and fuck up the whole shape of the ute.
 

 
Never mind I will use the whole side off the rusty XE ute I have. It's rusty in the usual spots but at least it is not full of bog. Seriously I have no clue why people do this. Never mind - onwards and upwards. If the ute was not so so good in the plenum and sills and I had not pumped so much time into getting the passenger side arrow straight and rust free I would have ditched the whole ute.
 
These things are set to test us. Hopefully Saturday will actually bring some further work on the actual engine.....

Just throw the 250 in and use your existing manifolds etc. You don't need to change anything else.
 
4L ruins the character of the XD IMO. Give me the 250 any day. A tough one would be even better!

The day I picked her up. Yes it's low at the front - no springs or shocks will do that - previous owner needed standard height springs to get his XG ute registered so he robbed the ones out of this ute.
 

 
Happy to see no rust at all in here or on the ends of the plenum - no leaks onto the floor at all - winning.
 

 
Had to repair the inner section of the scuttle panel so I put a couple of holes in the lowest section of the scuttle - front and rear - something Ford should have done.
 

 
All ready to be zipped up
 

 
 
Painting is the easy bit - getting all the rust out and then straightening the old girl out - well that just plain sucks but it has to be done.
 
The weather has turned to shit up here with Cyclone Nathan so no more panel work for awhile. Just means more time for the mechanicals.
 
I took the crank and camshaft to my mates lathe today and linished up all the bearing journals. Put some LOW springs into the front and ordered some degreaser and carby cleaner so that I can start cleaning everything tomorrow ready for assembly on Saturday. It is seriously raining and windy here at the moment so no better time to be in the shed and assembling this little throw together.

Slightly different tune and no speed limiter I reckon. Catch code will be different and part number will be a 94DT rather than 94DA to signify the Tickford shizzle.
 
Waste of money though honestly, you won't notice a difference. Done it all before.

As long as its an EF XR6 one and to suit your trans (auto/manual) then yes, straight in.
 
You won't notice a difference though.

Well the engine that came with my new shop ute has a munched cam bearing (number 2) so it is time to finally put together the 'Mad scientist' crossflow.  This engine will be pieced together from left over crossflow bits from my speedway career and general hunting and gathering.
 
Here is quick run down;
 
Yella Terra street terra bolt on adjustables on a D head with moderate porting and a multi angle seat cut.  Not really sure on the head flow figures but the engine it was on made 270rwhp on fuel so good enough.
 
Bottom end will be a 78DA block, .030 that I picked up locally for $20.  It is honed and fitted with new cam bearings and the crank is unbalanced.  Slugs will be ACL 8.5cc (now 10cc thanks to inlet reliefs) 200 rod pistons on balanced 200 rods with ARP rods bolts.
 
Camshaft is a very old CROW 619 Hydraulic.  Not ideal but it is what I have and I want to finally use it.  I have a new set of Clevite anti pump up lifters so they will go in with a one season old Rollmaster Double Row Timing chain.  Pushrods will be a set of tapered XC factory units (they are strong little buggers).
 
The Shop ute cam with off the shelf Lukey extractors and I have fitted a press bent 2.5" exhaust with a singe muffler (no resonator) that I had lying around. Compression should end up at 10.3:1 and I will be running an Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold with a Keith Dorton 350 Holley initially.
 
The plan is to build and run the engine like this and once it is 'run in', I will dyno it and see what we end up with.  Then I will change to a reco 500 Holley and see what happens on the dyno. 
 
I have a dirty old CAIN four barrel manifold here and a 600DP so that will also make it's way on in the future and if I can con a new Aussiespeed 4 barrel out of Mark I will test them back to back to show how superior the Aussiespeed unit is. 
 
Whole object of this engine is to show people what can be achieved with careful parts hunting and scavenging.  It wont be an all time horsepower king, but it will be fun.  I will update this thread with results so stay tuned.

I think that they will be fine - much better than a stock cast iron lump and better than some of the cheapies around.  I'm not a fan of the pipe into cone on the secondaries on all these headers.  Pacey's are pipe over cone and that is one of the reasons they work so well.
 
On a mild engine they will be fine. If you want a bit more torque and better performing extractors then lengthen the secondaries making them 2 1/4"  and pipe over cone and you will be on a winner. 

They look the same as the cheapie no names I have on my xe

Genies are too thin in the wall on my experience. Those ones you show there are 6-2-1s, and without seeing the Pacies I'll assume they're the same. Pacies can be had in 6-3-1s as well, which are better.
 
The ones in the pic seem to have decent radius bends (albeit press-bent) unlike others I've seen with really tight turns out of the end cylinders. Can't see the merge collectors very well but they they look like they're pipe-in-cone at the merge (good) but where the cone meets the secondary looks like a bit of a step. Could well be Hurricanes.

On a mild crossy, i reckon perfect. As long as they don't leak or aren't too rusty. Might want to think about swapping the starter for one with the solenoid 90 deg down and away from the pipes. The Bakelite cap on the solenoid cracks from the heat and then kaput. Later gear reduction ones are smaller too.