user272

Haven't heard about fg's but it's cheap pice of mind.
 
And it's polished so is sexy.

yeah warmer weather has testing opportunities.
hopefully you get is sorted soon. good to see the old cars out and about now the weather is better

Oi stop giving away trade secrets haha

I have an old EL falcoon  with a dead fuel pump so every time i want to move it (just so i can mow the grass around it) i spray that cheap as 
export degreaser  straight down the throttle body whilst i sit in the engine bay and my wife drives it. 
Whilst doing this the engine revs up like it would normally so am able to select gear and move it.
 
Anyway....
 
I was thinking,,,, if you did this to and found you could rev the car up that would almost determin that the fuel pressure reg
is not working???
Im sure there is a simpler method of testing the fuel pressure reg but im just thinking out loud here. 

Yeah mate, the car wont even know anything has changed
 

 
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/prd126.htm

kinda had to do the drive by seat of your pants kinda thing - i made it be about 20-30k out was the closet i could get it to read then manually adjusted it with the buttons now its dead on - great bit of kit 

Yeah mate, the car wont even know anything has changed
 

 
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/prd126.htm

I thought I'd put up a post about this in case anyone else has done similar dash/trans conversions and is looking to get their speedo working again.
 
After 2 years of driving the XF with no speedometer after the TH400 gear box installation I decided it was probably a good idea to get it sorted out.
I spoke to a company in Heidelberg who were very unwilling to give any information and told me that I was going to have to leave the car with them for at least 2 days with no specified cost so I basically thought these guys can get fucked and then left (Last time i left the car with someone to get the diff worked on I got it back as a two speed, hence the TH400 change over leaving me without a speedometer).
 
I did some research and ended up buying a Dakota Digital SGI5 -E to change the sine wave from the gear box's VR type sensor to match the square wave of the XF dash, once set up the calibration was very easy just using my GPS and adjusting the units PPM to suit. The unit was small enough to tuck in underneath the XF's cassette holder compartment out of site, The dash now operates like nothing was ever changed and I no longer have to carry a GPS at all times.
 
The unit cost $200 from Hotrod Hardware but is well worth it in my opinion as it both modifies and re calibrates the signal to suit your application.
 
 
A big thanks to Antonio and Michael at Autobarn Epping for helping me out with the technical bits.

I thought I'd put up a post about this in case anyone else has done similar dash/trans conversions and is looking to get their speedo working again.
 
After 2 years of driving the XF with no speedometer after the TH400 gear box installation I decided it was probably a good idea to get it sorted out.
I spoke to a company in Heidelberg who were very unwilling to give any information and told me that I was going to have to leave the car with them for at least 2 days with no specified cost so I basically thought these guys can get fucked and then left (Last time i left the car with someone to get the diff worked on I got it back as a two speed, hence the TH400 change over leaving me without a speedometer).
 
I did some research and ended up buying a Dakota Digital SGI5 -E to change the sine wave from the gear box's VR type sensor to match the square wave of the XF dash, once set up the calibration was very easy just using my GPS and adjusting the units PPM to suit. The unit was small enough to tuck in underneath the XF's cassette holder compartment out of site, The dash now operates like nothing was ever changed and I no longer have to carry a GPS at all times.
 
The unit cost $200 from Hotrod Hardware but is well worth it in my opinion as it both modifies and re calibrates the signal to suit your application.
 
 
A big thanks to Antonio and Michael at Autobarn Epping for helping me out with the technical bits.

Can you show us a couple of pics of the sill damage? I might be able to help.
 
Ticks me off with rwc that mechanics are asked to make judgements on things outside their qualifications. Its like asking me to tell if your big end bearings are shot by listening to the rattle in the aerial. Most don't have a clue what the regs actually are let alone what's a safety issue.

Nothing worse than doing a job twice (sway bar ref).
Still looking forward to seeing this car mate, impressed with the progress.

yeah i should've known about the sway bar. just wasnt thinking when i fitted it. its a pain to get in, you have to use a ratchet strap to pull it together to go into the control arms. its like a giant spring. 
 
when i bought this, i originally said id sit on it, because the XF was priority. but the problem is, I can't permanently keep it at home, like the XF, due to space. so theres a good chance this will end up at a mate's house, so its not fair on him having it there, unable to be driven. once i got started on it, it just snowballed. so yeah it happened pretty quickly. 
 
so the hard work is done (providing it passes its inspection on thursday) its just a matter of doing all the small stuff i want to add. extractors, twin barrel carb and manifold, corner bumpers. but all in good time

Ive made good progress this week. Not much more to do now. 
 
sway bar with fresh subframe black paint. 


 
sway bar, new control arms and tie rods fitted. 
 

 
steering column dropped to repair the steering coupling 
 

 
steering coupling repaired, cleaned. looks nearly new  
 

 
interior all back together 
 

 
discs freshly machined up 
 

 
new springs  
 

 
bit of height difference. apparently only 1" lower when in the car...we'll see lol 
 

 
old vs new. just goes to show what some cleaning can do. all I've replaced on the "new" strut is the springs. the shock inserts are the same, all the rubbers (shock sleeves and bumpstops) tops and all are the same ones, just been thoroughly cleaned. 
 

 
passenger side back together, and thats where i had to leave it for today, as i have to go to work shortly. Turns out you can't put the struts back in with the sway bar installed, so i had to remove it from the car entirely again  
 

 
more to come tomorrow if all goes well, it will be on its wheels by tomorrow night. 

Must have really liked it.... 7 threads lol

I like the way this bloke has done the taillights & garnish on his ed xr6 looks similar to fc fd ltd tail lights, the rest of the car looks awesome too
 
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Quick shift of the auto with no clutch + changes gears exactly when you want it to where as if your driving an old school auto without tiptronic you don't get full control of the gear changes.
Necessity of the conversion depends on the use of the car, apparently auto's also tend to be a stronger box, I know of a kingswood that blew a few manuals before going auto.

I'll try and explain the best as i can here:
 
Transmission kickdown happens when trans is "forced" to drop back a gear. Say your going up a hill and you want to pass someone, it drops down a gear when you floor it or when its under a heavy load etc. I use the kickdown rod on my XD. You can run it without i heard that they work ok without them. The kickdown rod is not needed when the auto is fully manualised. If you cant sauce a kickdown rod Lokar make a kickdown cable which will also work fine.
 
If your running a holley carburettor that has the Ford trans kickdown arm fitted, you'll need to fit the spring perch kit. Holley part no. 20-91. If your going from 2 barrel to 4 barrel you will need to extend the kickdown rod. Holley part no 20-41. Or alternatively you can fit a kickdown cable or fit the longer kickdown rod.

Heres a post i put on Facebook last night.
 
 
Today marks the end of an era, an Australian motoring icon has left its mark and has turned off the great Australian motoring highway and into the history books.
 
Many thanks to the team of men and women at Ford Australia for bringing us a car that was designed, developed and built in our own backyard. Through the years, the ups and downs it has been a great car and one hell of a roller-coaster ride.
 
Thank you Ford Australia, its been Falcon great.
 
#ford #fordfalcon #fordaustralia #itsbeenfalcongreat
 

 

 

 
 

We'll have to update thename of the forum to Ozfalcon and Ozhaval.
 
We'll need something to carry on about.

Looking forward to seeing this car on the next meet, big pig little pig?

Oh yeah its angry, like it will destroy your XF man hahahahaha
 
No really the hand brake isnt great lol.

I love the brick sitting in front of the back wheel to hold back the power while your'e not looking...
The whole car looks unreal, great score

Well, here we go again. 
 
A week ago, i had no intention of buying another Mk1 Escort any time soon. However, a mate of mine from when I had my last escort couldn't resist contacting me, and putting me onto this beautiful little 4 door Mk1 for sale way up in Kerang, about 3 hours north of Melbourne. 

I took a look at the photos, and promptly called the owner. I was pretty much sold there and then. 
 
So yesterday, Michael (my Escort informant), my good mate Callin and I set off from Sunbury at around 9am in Michael's VW Amarok (I'm glad we did...ill explain soon) to go look at this car, with cash in hand ready to drive this beauty home to Melbourne. 
 
The owner was a retired old guy, who collects some interesting and beautiful cars. He was very honest with his asking price, and very genuine. I somewhat feel like i might have ripped him off a little with the price, but it was well within his price range, and he was happy to accept. Even left his club plates for me to drive it home. 
 
now for the good (and bad) photos of our adventure. 
 
These next few pics are the photos the owner sent me. the car is totally original. 1975 (october) factory 4 speed 1300XL. Has 139,000km on the odometer, but the engine in it apparently has about half that. The original engine came with the car, which has been rebuilt as some stage, with non standard pistons...so some investigation needs to go into that, as it may end up being a stronger engine than the one thats in it...very weird. 
 

 
interior is MINT.
 

 

 
the previous owner had it for about 3.5 years, and only drove it a handful of times. 
 

 
 
 
SO i bought the car, and set off on the long journey home. during the test drove she drove like a dream. smooth, plenty of power and comfy...
 

 
we got 30 minutes from Kerang then this happened....
 
obviously the guy i bought it from never had a problem with the car because it only ever got driven around town, never on the HWY. so me attempting to drive it home, sitting on 90km/h was enough to sort out the bugs...like the distributor which was inevitably going to die..and leave me standard  

 
SO, we flat towed the car as far has Harcourt, where Michael's dad was nice enough to borrow a friends trailer, and meet us. we trailered it back to Michael's house, arriving back to Sunbury about 8pm last night. and thats where i left the car, on the trailer in Michael's driveway, along with 1 of his Mk1 4 door Escorts. 
 

 
A big thanks to Michael and Callin for the support and help yesterday, i would've been fucked if i had taken the xf or my daily to go collect it. thank fuck for Michael and his Rok. 
 
anyway, Michael is a legend, he is going to get it going for me (just needs a dizzy) at his house. 
 
Can not wait to start enjoying this beast  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You can start with just getting a little bit of a corner off and the rest should follow quite easy,or use a wide scraper and be careful not to damage the bodywork,use petrol or kero and a rag to get old tape or glue off,same with the moulds make sure they are super clean before putting back on with 3m tape ,3 x small lengths should be enough all the way down .

I had this problem with a Vectra once, in my case the mechanism between the gear stick and the transmission became disconnected. Do you feel anything when park engages or does the gear stick move freely like as if there is nothing attached?