Gaz

Got a pic of the back of the converter?

yep spot on gaz she is just a 6cyl box with just under 3 1/2 turns in first gear so its a 3.47 or 3.50

Ill do you a reco 20:1 manual box for a straight swap of your 16P box.

What's the difference between the boxes? Is one better for manual then power?
 
 
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Yes because Xf comes after Xe...early 3 bolt late 4 bolt as Winton has stated.

XT GT. You will sell them easy.

Always start at the bottom, The small top and obtuse angle is easier to get in last

Rear pushes out without cutting the seal.

XT still had the remote booster. XW was the first model with the Master/booster combo.

Eseries diff will fit straight in.
He can use xa onwards stuff to get front discs.
Best to adapt an xy booster and master cylinder,the remote xr ones are hard to find and rubbish.

Don't ever rely on the "spins same way/spins opposite way" theory. Some LSD's only work under the right circumstances i.e. traction/power.

Not that I give a fuck and most people wouldn't either, but the current position of that converter  would never pass either a roadworthy or a gas compliance test. Just sayin'.

Not that I give a fuck and most people wouldn't either, but the current position of that converter  would never pass either a roadworthy or a gas compliance test. Just sayin'.

Xe has greyouts.

Mark's right. XD has a smaller hole and vinyl boot. XE has the massive hole and big ugly rubber boot.

Mark's right. XD has a smaller hole and vinyl boot. XE has the massive hole and big ugly rubber boot.

They just ran dual brake light switches. Wired parallel. 

They just ran dual brake light switches. Wired parallel. 

Rally Pack all black from door handles up. Chrome below.
 
GXL series 1 all chrome.
GXL update black from door handles up. Chrome below including bonnet .
 
Std. Fairmont never had black.
 
Yours should be black door handles, window frames and fuel cap only. The rest should be chrome.

Rally Pack all black from door handles up. Chrome below.
 
GXL series 1 all chrome.
GXL update black from door handles up. Chrome below including bonnet .
 
Std. Fairmont never had black.
 
Yours should be black door handles, window frames and fuel cap only. The rest should be chrome.

How many Irishmen does it take to change a light bulb?

I just smash 'em out with a copper mallet. Hold the rod in left hand, belt the fucker with my right. 

I just smash 'em out with a copper mallet. Hold the rod in left hand, belt the fucker with my right. 

I just smash 'em out with a copper mallet. Hold the rod in left hand, belt the fucker with my right. 

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.