steve mcqueen

You could have eared 2 insider doll ,?

I'm gonna be sick

I have an old EL falcoon  with a dead fuel pump so every time i want to move it (just so i can mow the grass around it) i spray that cheap as 
export degreaser  straight down the throttle body whilst i sit in the engine bay and my wife drives it. 
Whilst doing this the engine revs up like it would normally so am able to select gear and move it.
 
Anyway....
 
I was thinking,,,, if you did this to and found you could rev the car up that would almost determin that the fuel pressure reg
is not working???
Im sure there is a simpler method of testing the fuel pressure reg but im just thinking out loud here. 

Looks a bit short.....

If anyones interested i found a product that should do the job perfect at clarke rubber. They call it "Sponge extrusion self adhesive blister 16x12mm" part no. 31633, was $11.95/m. I bought 1.8m, but 1.6 will do the job easy.
 
Here's the stuff
 

 
Trial fitted this piece this arvo and it fits perfect, the rib at the top seals on the underside of the bonnet like it was meant for it.
 
I'll put up a pic when i clean up the area and install it.

What those guys said, if you offset the engine slightly you can get a bbm on these in a Mustang
Here's a pic for reference


But that does then require an efi setup to run, they may be hard to get hold of for you but an ea-el (excluding ef as they had coil packs) dizzy using a map sensor and MSD 6al digital (or equivalent) will get you a programmable timing curve, do you have to run a cat on this or can you get away without?
Btw just my personal preference I'd steer away from crow cams nothing wrong with quality I've just never really liked their profiles
If you can get hold of an e series head you have a much wider cam selection and a handy bump in compression

Hey guys, discovered in the computer at work today (Repco) that we have/can get some urethane engine mounts for xflows, if anyone's interested they are on clearance for around $20 a side.
Not many left in the country though.

Just stamp it ya self and lob up and get it done.

Can the Engineer stamp it for ya, Steve.?  Could you get away with using your old engine number, tell them its a Clevo, just removed for a "freshen up" ? 

I never put on Goldie, looks ok and is good for an extra 10 kilowatts at the back wheels with out it 
I think Nana still has her's but its all hard and cracked.
 
Once you remove the glue residue and give that part a bit of paint you'll be like "Hey, that looks good"
Wonder what Clark rubber have you could whack in there??

Waiting for one to turn up from chingbay, will let you know if it was worth 8 bucks

Oh and yes it is expensive. But it's quicker and relatively painless. I think if you're careful about it, you should be able to do a four window van with one tube. Glue would be easier to apply to the new panel while it's laying flat on a stand etc then put it in place and clamp. Wear latex type gloves and thoroughly clean the areas on all panels with wax n grease remover.

3M panel bonding adhesive

I was told by the smash repairer who made the bonnet on my Project Goldie that Sika flex shrinks back apon drying out 
and can cause warping of panels. The bonnet on Goldie was bonded together with some sort of glue but it wasn't Sika flex
for this very reason. I have no foggie do what the adhesive was called so more home work needed before gluing together.
I cant go back and ask em as the smash repair has changed hands but im sure if somebody rocked up to a 'prestige smash place' 
(somebody who repairs european cars, BMW, MERC etc, they glue a lot of these together now) they may give you the product name??
I was told its expensive stuff to.
Explore the sika flex range by all means, hey they might just have the product for the job, just want to relay what i was told is all.
Im all for this idea.   

hmmm. i usually try to remove with hammer and dolly. If that dont work i go fork separator. if that don't work i get a bigger hammer. if it still don't come off i get my biggest hammer and belt it till something brakes... The joint, the fork, the hammer, or me. Something always gives 100% of the time Guaranteed something will separate.
 
I've never had to go as far as using heat but that might be what you gotta do if it really is that stuck? You have taken the nut off right? =P

2016... Not using LED light bars.
 
C-mon guys, even the cheap nasty ebay ones work a treat (just dont trust the water tightness rating)
Filament lights have had their day. Boly on LED light bar and your wont look back.
 
The light is very white and oncomming street signs can dazzel you a bit. Its also not the best if your after improved depth perception, warm white to yellow is better, but i find it keeps me More alert than the soft light from filent globes.
 
Tbh ill never fit a filament light as a high beam again. HID or LED.

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/products/4wd-lights.html
 
 
just putting this here

I've been tinkering again...
Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used)

Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe

P5 coupe

No, I just so happen to work at Repco, been there for 6 years. 
Im not plugging Repco and that why i say "shop around" because you have to in todays world.
There are bargains out there 

No, I just so happen to work at Repco, been there for 6 years. 
Im not plugging Repco and that why i say "shop around" because you have to in todays world.
There are bargains out there 

Have you tried different H4 bulbs in your stock housings?
On my xf the headlights were woeful (aftermarket housings) and i was recommended to try Tungsram +60 H4 bulbs and what can i say.
It out performed my old mans BA with stock headlights and they were 100 times better than what i had in the xf.
The bulbs are still rated at 60/55w so they don't strain the wiring to the headlight housing either.
I know Narva and Hella also do an improved ouput range, so maybe try some better bulbs in the stock housings and see how they go.
For less than $30 from my local truck and trailer supplier i couldn't be happier with my headlights.
 
Exactly what i'm running in my car.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEADLIGHT-GLOBE-TWIN-PACK-TUNGSRAM-MEGALIGHT-PLUS-60-12V-60-55W-H4-50440MPU-/161068803090?hash=item258072e412:g:rNkAAMXQlgtS6Ia1

These are just like your Narva 180's so you wont like them either.
The issue is the adjustment on them. They have 1 mounting bolt and will either go up and down
or right and left. You get them spot on where you want them, do them up tight then after a drive they need doing again..
What LED light bar did you have?
We have had 2 evening light displays at my work both with Great White and Big Red
and we had at least 8 4x4's in with a mixed bunch of owners all with different light bars and spotties.
Some were even el cheapo jobbies off evil bay. One guy with a light bar off ebay, his light bar impressed us quite a bit
with how far it lit up and how well it lit up but,,,, it did leak water into it but that could be fixed with a tube of all clear.
Another guy had 2 "Great white, no expense spared" round spotties (we asked him to come and demmo them aswell)
and they were the ducks guts light!!! But at over $1000+ for 2 lights, not cheap.
Big Red, also do a mean light bar or spottie. A staff member i work with has 2 big red brand spotties on his Patrol and 
he wanks over them every day, bloody loves them that much!!!
HID's are good but have lag from warming up but once on, really really bright to.
Go back to LED light bars or a LED spot light Because LED future is now.
LED light bar once you fix it on and adjust, will hardly move and give you optimum light for night time driving.
Im no expert with light bars and spotties, just going off what i have seen and heard from happy customers who come to 
my work and our 2 light displays and seen results. 
Repco has an up coming sale on light bars from Hypo and big red.
They also sell the Great white brand light.
 
Shop around still because there are savings out there and i hope other's can 'shed light' on this topic    

This is what I have setup on my wagon

 
Each light is a 7 inch wide Osram 8 degree spot beam(known as fish eye lens) with 60W power rating, they cost me $50 each off ebay. They are really really good on long straight sections of highway, or if the road is lined with high trees as the beam is quite high and it will shine to the top of the trees. The beam from the light is not suited for use on roads that do have tighter corners as they are really only for long distance coverage which these sound like they might suit. I would estimate that the light show reflectors on guide posts(or reflect animals eyes) et at about 1km and throws actual light for atleast 350-400 metres down the road. I have used very expensive spot lights when I was driving trucks and these things are an absolute bargain compared to the cost of good hella or lightforce spotties. They will never outright compete with the $400-500 per spot light range but they would be at least 75% as good in my opinion.

The 28th of june 1960 is the day the first falcon rolled off the line.Add your comments 

Actually starting to like seeing Mondeo's around. Neighbour's got one, in silver and it looks good.
 
Not sure my sons will ever get excited about restoring one........