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Imgur won't let me upload photos due to format issues so I'll have to add those later as well as torque specs. For bushing removal you're best off watching a video as they all come out mostly the same way.   Firstly you'll want to pull the calipers and rotors off, the caliper bracket is held in with two bolts behind the rotor (see attached) and then can be pried off the rotor as you would when doing brakes. To get the rotor off use a chisel or screwdriver between the gap between the rotor and dust cover to pop it off, then pull off the split pin (don't be cheap - replace it with a new one when assembling) the keeper and then remove the nut. It should then come off with the bearings (now is the time to re-grease them) and to get the rear bearing out you can use a flat screwdriver in-between the inner race of the bearing and the inner side of the seal, you can reuse this if you're gentle but it's best to replace it. Now that you've got the rotor off the dust shield behind it will be held on by three bolts, once these are out give it a yank and it'll come off.   To remove ball joints: First split the ball joint from the knuckle with your method of choice and then undo the 3 bolts holding it in place (5 for the lower with the castor arm bolts). Installation is the reverse of removal. (pulling both ball joints and the tie rod end will free the knuckle) Use the same splitting method to remove tie rod ends and then either mark or count the turns as you wind it out.      To remove lower control arm:  First Undo the nut holding the lower ball joint to the knuckle and then split it from the knuckle using your method of choice however leave it loosely attached to stop it from moving when you undo the castor arm bolts. Undo the sway bar link (sandwich of 4 bushings) and then undo the castor arm (rod going to the front at an angle) Undo it from the frame side first to avoid it spinning and then you can undo it from the lower control arm via the two bolts going through the ball joint however this isn't necessary if you're not removing the ball joint. Then mark the position of the camber bolt and remove it. Now just wiggle and pry downwards to get it out.

This has been a long time coming and isnt going to be complete as the upper control arm and shocks were omited from this guide. I will hopefully ammend this once I have gotten around to it but feel free to add anything you see fit. With that being said once you get into it its pretty easy as the suspension on these are dead simple.

i've always cleaned them out with a pick/bent small screw driver etc. it's plastic/glue that's in there, it shouldn't be that hard to scrape out.    based on this link, it's 3/8 NPT  (national pipe thread i think, plumber might have one) 
this is a different vacuum tree, but it's the same thread. 
https://www.custommustangs.com.au/xd-xe-xf-xg-falcon-3-port-manifold-vacuum-fitting?srsltid=AfmBOorACJ5X8W-XaLgYH2jcOwa0HH4Fo9mXt5LWlLrd68wGnmAq4S_x

Took my old PCV off and after inspecting , Found the thread clogged up shit.  I don't know the thread size to buy a tap & die set  to clean it out . https://ibb.co/bjcnXLS0

yeah xfalcon was a LONG time ago, 
there would have been plenty of these conversions back in the days before efi was popular, even 30yrs ago i met someone with an escort and megasquirt (assemble yourself ecu kit) running efi bits and pieces for 400hp goal from a 2 litre (he rocked up with a 1300 with efi on it)

most of these low boost turbos of the era are due to the limits of pressure you could run on stock parts (like 4psi not intercooled etc) due to combination of hot air, leaking gaskets and seals or crushing the float bowl..
many were LPG conversions due to a much simpler setup and pollution compliant automatically due to the LPG. 

you can blow through those carby looking EFI conversions .. what you'd save on the tuning costs would probably cover one

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/815-can-a-weber-34adm-be-boost-referenced-and-how/   however I did find a reference to the car and owner here.

Hmmm seems this particular car has disappeared...oh well...

should be able to google the blow through requirements. would be pretty standard, i'd be finding someone who'd tune it and ask what's needed. 
      first google result i found for the carby was on a datsun forum.  plastic float is mentioned,  i don't recall ever hearing about one, but google found this for Me https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202106654779?srsltid=AfmBOorpSCKBVuVo4LCfd_3xeI4T5NFzXkllCr9Ns4kc__Jnd7WYXu69
first post mentioning the 34ADM below (not much in it really) 
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=414372  

Although that carby hat would certainly do the trick...

Its not so much the carby hat that im interested in as much as how the carb was set up on the falcon and how much boost it ran, I do recall it made more than 250 rwhp.