XPT

If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build. 

Yep with a stock valvetrain, just a decent set of valve springs, decent head gasket & fresh bottom end. Stock CR is perfect for a turbo.
 
 
 
 
 
 

i don't think you could have possibly finished reading those threads yet.

XPT means RECONDITIONED stock bottom end for FRESH.. 

i think you can go a long way with just ARP rod bolts but,  i'll ask what your budget is, because you won't get much change from $10,000 for that power level at a guess (reliably) 

Yep with a stock valvetrain, just a decent set of valve springs, decent head gasket & fresh bottom end. Stock CR is perfect for a turbo.
 
 
 
 
 
 

i would suggest you read both of these threads.. then decide if the cost is justified? or in the budget.
there's a LOT of info, and heartache, and reality. 

My question would be.. why do you want 300hp NA if you are going to turbo it.. could probably turbo straight up for cheap and get 300hp relatively easy.
 
 
 
 
 

your going to have a little bit of fun with the front accessory drive being a vct engine, but you need to use the xh tensioner and ac pump mounts to clear the intake manifold,you will have to use the au alternator you will need to cut the xh plug off the loom and splice the au one in, you can use either the au or xh power steering pump, the heater pipe that runs around the back of the engine to the water pump will need to be swapped out for the xh one, you'll need the xh dipstick and you'll have to figure out a way to mount the throttle cable to the rocker cover, the knock sensor mounting boss needs to be drilled and tapped to suit the xh knock sensor, pull the gear off the stub shaft and put it on your xh dizzy, you can just cut the wires off the cam position sensor but you have to leave it in or you will have an oil leak, the crank angle sensor can be pulled off and turfed, you will have to modify the sump or the k frame as they will want to occupy the same space at the front, it will run fine. what are you planning to do about the vct? I have read you can operate them off an rpm switch but I haven't seen it done so I don't know for sure about that part

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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I'm not sure if you're serious but anyway. You could most likely fit the biggest fuel guzzling lump of cast iron you can find under the bonnet considering they had the physically massive 5.4 dohc from factory. The real question is why would you? Can you afford to do it? If you can then why would you start with a BA and not an earlier model which can legally run an old school V8 and be way cooler? Is it worth the fine if you get caught? Your car would also be uninsurable. You could just buy a BA XR8 or 5.4 3V, put on an exhaust and CAI, have it flash tuned and probably make more power than the tired boat anchor you put in there. It would go ok, sound good and would be legal.

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Yeah I would definitely start with the 460 no good stuffing around its obvious you need some real power.
Put a stroker kit in the 460 try to get close to 600 cubes with over boring and stroking.
Then top it of with a good super charger.
If you still need more power go methanol should be good for over 1000hp.
Looking forward to seeing the build.

I'm not sure if you're serious but anyway. You could most likely fit the biggest fuel guzzling lump of cast iron you can find under the bonnet considering they had the physically massive 5.4 dohc from factory. The real question is why would you? Can you afford to do it? If you can then why would you start with a BA and not an earlier model which can legally run an old school V8 and be way cooler? Is it worth the fine if you get caught? Your car would also be uninsurable. You could just buy a BA XR8 or 5.4 3V, put on an exhaust and CAI, have it flash tuned and probably make more power than the tired boat anchor you put in there. It would go ok, sound good and would be legal.

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I'm not sure if you're serious but anyway. You could most likely fit the biggest fuel guzzling lump of cast iron you can find under the bonnet considering they had the physically massive 5.4 dohc from factory. The real question is why would you? Can you afford to do it? If you can then why would you start with a BA and not an earlier model which can legally run an old school V8 and be way cooler? Is it worth the fine if you get caught? Your car would also be uninsurable. You could just buy a BA XR8 or 5.4 3V, put on an exhaust and CAI, have it flash tuned and probably make more power than the tired boat anchor you put in there. It would go ok, sound good and would be legal.

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Physically? Probably. Legally? No.

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I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability  (although $$$).

You would need a 3.9 bore to even get close to the 285 cubes used to win the aspo 6 title at this years nats. 
 
The pure expense of this bottom end is beyond the dreams of most people.  Custom slugs, head gasket. Bore and sleeve etc etc. your taking serious coin. Most x flow people arc up at the price of a basic head service. 
 
But hey hey if you have the coin and it's what you want to do, why not. 
 
Im with gerg tho - why doesn't someone do a decent cylinder head for the big 300 cuber. Now that would own a lot of engines getting around. 
 
 

Yeah they're basically a big-block 6. Everything is scaled-up, including bore spacing. So no, 250 is basically as far as you can go. The Chrysler Hemi 6 was a better design to start with, from a performance point of view. They have 318 pistons for an oversquare cylinder. That's why they can rpm.

The 300 is a torque monster, but the heads have very limited potential for performance. Think of a 400M with 302W heads. That's about the best analogy you could have. Ford never wanted them to make lots of power, just to push farmer Billy Bob along in his F-truck, towing cows to the auction, and do it for a very long time without even thinking about maintenance.

Speaking of bore spacing, some have cut up LS heads and bolted them on, some 4V clevo's, basically people with too much money and spare time.

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You can apparently stroke a crossflow with offset grinding and a different combination of pistons and rods. The question is why would you? They're already well undersquare. If you need more torque beyond that, a smallish turbo or even a roots blower would fix that while producing more top end power. People go to extreme measures to counter the inherent problems of such a long stroke with the 250 as it is. Adding stroke would exaggerate these issues. The piston speeds would be huge with such a long stroke.
The reason strokers are popular with American V8s us because most of them are well oversquare from factory and have a lot more head room to gain bulk capicity and still keep piston speeds sensible.
 
The 300ci 6 is a different family with a 4" bore and almost 4" stroke
 
 
 
 
 
 

You can apparently stroke a crossflow with offset grinding and a different combination of pistons and rods. The question is why would you? They're already well undersquare. If you need more torque beyond that, a smallish turbo or even a roots blower would fix that while producing more top end power. People go to extreme measures to counter the inherent problems of such a long stroke with the 250 as it is. Adding stroke would exaggerate these issues. The piston speeds would be huge with such a long stroke.
The reason strokers are popular with American V8s us because most of them are well oversquare from factory and have a lot more head room to gain bulk capicity and still keep piston speeds sensible.
 
The 300ci 6 is a different family with a 4" bore and almost 4" stroke
 
 
 
 
 
 

You can apparently stroke a crossflow with offset grinding and a different combination of pistons and rods. The question is why would you? They're already well undersquare. If you need more torque beyond that, a smallish turbo or even a roots blower would fix that while producing more top end power. People go to extreme measures to counter the inherent problems of such a long stroke with the 250 as it is. Adding stroke would exaggerate these issues. The piston speeds would be huge with such a long stroke.
The reason strokers are popular with American V8s us because most of them are well oversquare from factory and have a lot more head room to gain bulk capicity and still keep piston speeds sensible.
 
The 300ci 6 is a different family with a 4" bore and almost 4" stroke
 
 
 
 
 
 

I just free-revved mine to 6 yesterday.... The induction roar sounds bloody great. Hope it goes as well as it sounds

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It's to do with the output of the e series map sensors, they aren't 0-5V GM style where you can just scale the map to suit the sensor i.e changing to a 2bar map sensor, they put out a frequency. You can get around the 10psi with a boost cut defender and rising rate fpr if you want more boost than that, not ideal though.

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If I were you I'd go efi, being a Ghia it should have been efi standard ?
For a small budget I'd go with a factory xflow efi intake with some cleaned 440cc bosch green s/h injectors which can be bought cheap an e series distributor type ecu (along with a J3 chip) and wiring harness. A TFI dizzy if you don't already have one. Replace the stock in tank fuel pump with a Walbro 255lph unit, an aftermarket efi 1:1 fuel reg.
A front mounted air to air intercooler.
By the time you stuff around with buying the carby and associated manifolds, then tuning it you'll probably end up with a rough running,temperamental pile of shit.
The factory e series ecu with a J3 chip allows total control over fuel and ignition for all weather conditions. I believe you can run up to 10psi before you run out of tuning resolution.


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Hi mate, a couple of things already don't make much sense. 6-8th pistons doesn't tell us anything. Maybe he's talking about deck clearance?

A "worked" block doesn't say much either. What exactly was done to it? If it was machined to zero deck the pistons, line-honed, bored out, cleaned up, etc then that's a bit of work done to it but it won't necessarily make any more power.

We'll need more of a description of the turbo kit. Some of those 1980s setups were a suck-through with SUs or Stromberg CDs. Non-intercooled of course. Requires either the original manifold or EFI type to work. Battery relocated too (the carbies go in its place). More modern carby setups are blow-through, allowing an intercooler to be fitted. You can use whatever aftermarket manifold you like, Aussiespeed, Redline, modified stocker....

Some pics would help a lot.

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I’m wondering if the pistons are 6-8cc pistons, not 6-8thou.

Pros: Having people tell you how unique and different it is going down that route. More power than N/A

Cons: parasitic losses of a blower,boost rises with revs, it costs way more than the car is worth, limited resale market and therefore value if you ever change your mind, can't change boost level easily, throwing belts, less power and peak torque than a correctly sized turbo. There's way more runs on the board with turbocharging Ford 6's in both drag racing and street cars.

Ultimately it's your money, different people want different things for different reasons.

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Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it.

 
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