XPT

Here's a CAD Alloy XFlow header flange for anyone who wants to make their own manifold. I've got it at 12mm thick for turbo manifolds. I've also got a dxf file to send directly to laser cutters to save coin having it formatted. PM me and I can email it. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Sure, pm your email address

Another old Melbourne XF Turbo originally built in the early 00's. Has hemi rods also. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-blow-carb-less-50/ Here's another article on modding a Holley for boost. It would be a damn sight cheaper than buying a finished one. Maybe more fun too. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

There's a link here for how to modify a 4 Barrel DP Holley for boost : http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html I know you don't really want to hear it, but by the time you've paid for an Aussiespeed manifold, carb, msd etc. You could have bought an E series ecu and J3 chipped it. Bosch Green 42Lb injectors, walbro 255 pump, fuel reg, xflow efi manifold & rail. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Yep with a stock valvetrain, just a decent set of valve springs, decent head gasket & fresh bottom end. Stock CR is perfect for a turbo.

https://www.spoolimports.com/ford-250-xflow-with-200-rod-ross-racing-forged-piston Ross aren't the best forgies available but would most likely do the job for you

I'm not sure if you're serious but anyway. You could most likely fit the biggest fuel guzzling lump of cast iron you can find under the bonnet considering they had the physically massive 5.4 dohc from factory. The real question is why would you? Can you afford to do it? If you can then why would you start with a BA and not an earlier model which can legally run an old school V8 and be way cooler? Is it worth the fine if you get caught? Your car would also be uninsurable. You could just buy a BA XR8 or 5.4 3V, put on an exhaust and CAI, have it flash tuned and probably make more power than the tired boat anchor you put in there. It would go ok, sound good and would be legal. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

There's a performance shop in Cardiff called Backtrack Performance. They've dealt with a lot of drag racing and drifting with Imports etc. They do fab work I believe maybe try them? Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

You can apparently stroke a crossflow with offset grinding and a different combination of pistons and rods. The question is why would you? They're already well undersquare. If you need more torque beyond that, a smallish turbo or even a roots blower would fix that while producing more top end power. People go to extreme measures to counter the inherent problems of such a long stroke with the 250 as it is. Adding stroke would exaggerate these issues. The piston speeds would be huge with such a long stroke. The reason strokers are popular with American V8s us because most of them are well oversquare from factory and have a lot more head room to gain bulk capicity and still keep piston speeds sensible. The 300ci 6 is a different family with a 4" bore and almost 4" stroke

It's to do with the output of the e series map sensors, they aren't 0-5V GM style where you can just scale the map to suit the sensor i.e changing to a 2bar map sensor, they put out a frequency. You can get around the 10psi with a boost cut defender and rising rate fpr if you want more boost than that, not ideal though. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

If I were you I'd go efi, being a Ghia it should have been efi standard ? For a small budget I'd go with a factory xflow efi intake with some cleaned 440cc bosch green s/h injectors which can be bought cheap an e series distributor type ecu (along with a J3 chip) and wiring harness. A TFI dizzy if you don't already have one. Replace the stock in tank fuel pump with a Walbro 255lph unit, an aftermarket efi 1:1 fuel reg. A front mounted air to air intercooler. By the time you stuff around with buying the carby and associated manifolds, then tuning it you'll probably end up with a rough running,temperamental pile of shit. The factory e series ecu with a J3 chip allows total control over fuel and ignition for all weather conditions. I believe you can run up to 10psi before you run out of tuning resolution. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Pros: Having people tell you how unique and different it is going down that route. More power than N/A Cons: parasitic losses of a blower,boost rises with revs, it costs way more than the car is worth, limited resale market and therefore value if you ever change your mind, can't change boost level easily, throwing belts, less power and peak torque than a correctly sized turbo. There's way more runs on the board with turbocharging Ford 6's in both drag racing and street cars. Ultimately it's your money, different people want different things for different reasons. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what size tube the lines are so here's a chart Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

You could get a swagelok or similar joiner so you can cut and rotate the tube. Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

You could drop in a 1J/2J

Only if you're going with no intercooler (far from ideal) or a water to air over the top of the engine. The old pre bbm log makes it easier to plumb intercooler pipework and makes for a far shorter inlet tract to run an air to air front mount, which is the cheapest option.

Yeah atomic do head stud kits for the sohc 4L. At almost $500 for studs though, you're almost reaching a point where you just get an FG Barra or stretch to a Turbo Barra.

http://www.tuffcarparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=180_65_81&product_id=1281 That's valve springs. Genuine AU head gasket, call your local Ford dealer. If not go a permaseal MLS gasket from TI Performance https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/permaseal-au-falcon-mls-head-gasket/

There was a white EA falcon out of Mike's Dyno in Melbourne about 10 years back that ran consistent low 10's and even a high 9 at some stage, with a stock EF bottom end with an XR6 GT3582R on a log manifold. I'd at least get an AU Falcon OEM steel head gasket and some fresh head bolts and some decent valve springs. It should last a while at least with a good tune.

A Garrett GT3582R from a BA-BF or GT3576R from an FG XR6T will be perfect. They're internal wastegate so they're more simple for fabrication and compact than for an external gate. Apart from that there's many turbo's that will do the job but they're already sized perfectly for a 4L so you won't go wrong.

Cutting your dick off with a chainsaw is different, doesn't mean you should do it.

OP Dex was referring to a roots type kit blower, with carbs & chrome and blower whine being favoured over outright hp or hp per dollar. Cool factor is the priority. Procharger, Vortech etc are all centrifugal blowers which are not only different in their characteristics by the way they deliver boost to positive displacement blowers (like roots or Whipple type). They also look totally different, they're basically a turbo with a gearbox and belt pulley on the back. They don't possess the "cool factor" of a the positive displacement blower in the same way that turbos don't (if you regard that look as cool). I can see how a centrifugal blower would be appealing especially in kit form, their bolt on nature and linear power delivery making good gains in peak & midrange hp and easy to tune. They can make some huge hp numbers with big cube v8s especially, but still aren't as efficient as turbos, can have belt slip and aren't exactly cheap.

The rear mount turbo is an interesting concept for sure. It's got a few advantages, like keeping heat out of the engine bay and less components to jam under the bonnet, keeping it close to stock looking etc. There would be lost heat therefore velocity from the exhaust gasses from the long journey rearward so you could go a size down in your turbine housing to compensate. I guess you would solid mount the turbo flange to the chassis with a flex joint on the feed side. It could run a sump under the turbo oil return and an electric oil pump to the feed in a closed loop oil system. It would give the turbo a nice uncontaminated oil supply not sharing with the engine, but adds complexity. You would have some lag as the long charge pipe from rear to front would add a lot of volume to be filled before making boost. As for the not needing an intercooler, I don't know whether the sheer length of the charge pipe and the exposure to cool air under the car would be enough to cool adequately.

If I was hell bent on a blower, I'd keep it injected and get a good second hand or reco Eaton M112 from the States off the SVT Mustang or F150 Lightning for around 1k. If you're handy with fabrication, you could make up the bracketry/manifold adaptor yourself. I'm a fitter & machinist so all this stuff wouldn't be a problem for someone like myself. But even if you aren't in a similar trade you could probably get it made a up at a reasonable price. If it's chrome and carbs that you're craving, it won't do the trick and the blower kit would be the go. It's expensive HP in anyone's language. If going blown I'd go a forged bottom end for sure due to the power delivery and risk of backfires/pinging when things like heat soak and lack of intercooler during extended thrashing.