Stevemack

60 will be too tall in a 275, 50s the go once you get fat . How fat you go is a matter of taste . Depending on the offset any bigger than a 255 will foul stock wheel arch lips.that said with rolled lips and the right offset 295/50/15s can fit, even on 8s.<br />

Earth straps connected? Definately an earth problem. If in doubt earth it out lol

Thanks Clint, this job is my one and only freebie, more sponsorship really, it works well for both of us, he owns the local wreckers and I now have access to as many parts for research purposes as I like for nothing, plus if the car performs well he will put a big sticker on his car for me and spread the word that I may have some idea LOL.
Your right about the hours, there is a solid 2 weeks of work in that and it's just about taking it slowly, remove a bit of material, put it on the flow bench and map the airflow, change the shape with some playdoh to get an idea of the radius needed to stop the air from shearing off the corners then put the shape into the alloy, test it again, some shapes helps some runners but not others so a happy medium for an even flow across the 6 runners is needed, I can get the 2 centre runners to flow over 170cfm but the other runners don't keep up, so a change in shape reduced the centre runners and picked up more flow in the others to get an even 164cfm average over 6 runners. Great fun but the alloy splinters in the socks get old real quick hahahahaha

Job is easy as, should take 4 hours, done and dusted, then regass A/C.  Easy peesy

220 rwkw . Abit more work you say .
 
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Rule of thumb with determining wear on anything that's meant to be precision-machined: if your fingernail can grab on a score mark, it's rooted.
 
Just looking at the pics, it doesn't look good. Sleeving may be the only option on this block. 0.040" is too far already in my opinion, and generally 0.030" is the limit most people stick to on Clevos.
 
Not sure about cost these days but 10 years ago it was around $100 a pot to sleeve an engine.

I recommend you change the cars springs to suit the height/center of gravity (CofG) you want. Then your shocks to suit that. THEN go out and test the car and see if it's under steering or over steering. From here you select sway bars to give the car more or less under/over steer. Springs, shocks and CofG will change your "boatyness" the best.
 
Worth looking into anyway.

why bother just go with the e series and get the rubber line remade to save all the work ,i did e series into an xf years ago and went back to xf brakes it was a pain
 
also just alter the e,series hand brake ratchets itl all work

You will increase your track by 60 odd mm but, and that might be a good thing.

A couple of years ago street fords featured an ea using Au suspension front and rear using an Au K frame and Au irs, if you use series 2 or 3 Au stub axles BA brakes bolt on, I'll see if I can dig the mag up

all i did with mine was rub with 400 clean and spray with a glossy acrylic its been standing in the weather for 8 mths and still looks good

Put Tapatalk on your phone steve and you can upload directly from the phone.

you can bring them across from facebook as well

we can paint late in the evening of September 7th if you want?

Start a photobucket account, then add the photo's to the account, once that is done, on the top right of the photo there is a list of things, you need to click links and copy the link, then post the link here
 
Or you can open a Post Image account (I reckon they are better) and do the same, but as soon as you add the pictures it gives you an option at the bottom to 'Hotlink for Forums (1)', click on the 'copy to clipboard' link and then paste the link here.

funny you should say that - LOL
 

Sorry Trev!! LOL  If they fling me some coin I'd think about it. 
I'll do a paint/build thread on it so you blokes can watch how it goes.

no clear straight over ,just wait for the colour or strips to flash off ,this is easy to test
touch the last place you painted ,a masked up area ,if the paint is sticky ,but when u pull your finger away it should have no paint stuck to finger ,but if the paint sticks to your finger give it 15 mins more ,u understand that lol 
i sometimes fuck up what i mean,lol

quiet easy do your repairs, patch prime,rub the primer back with 400 grit wet or dry,then use prepsol,or wax and grease remover ,and scotch brite to rub the whole car back with ,no need for bare metal, no need to primer whole car,dont let anyone talk you into Acrylic,its an out  dated system,go to your local paint supplier and see what brand of 2x pak paint they use then go from there in most cases for afalcon ,if your doing a solid colour 3x litres should get you around it ,when buying a primer buy 1 litre of primer filler  
 
3x litres of a solid colour ,solid means non metalic
 
base coat requires clear over the top,
 
ok here how much youl need 3x lt colour 3 litres reducer ,fast ,{thinners for 2 pak]
1 LITRE OF PRIMER FILLER OR HI BUILD ,plus hardner or use ms;hardner 
2,5kgs of bog
small roll of scotch brite medium grade
6x sheets 400 wet or dry ,your call 
4lts of wax n grease remover
4 rolls 1 inch masking tape
plenty of old news paper

I know there are some good paint guys on here, so hoping for a bit of help. 
Wanting to paint my EF racecar, do i need to rub it right back to bare metal or can i paint over the top of whats there (original paint) with a bit of rubbing first?   Also what type of paint should i be using from undercoat to clear?    Wanting to do white with some stripes over that.  Any help appreciated.

Try a new balancer, had one a while ago with that kind of vibration, balancer looked fine but a new one got rid of the vibration.

One more thing about keeping a clevo cool, under the thermostat there was a donut looking plate, most people pull this out to create more flow.  DOn't do it it actually does a great deal to keep the clevo cool, if you don't have one, get one, and also a CASE IH thermostat fits in great, has heaps better flow too.

I had a starter do this, the gear was just touching the flywhel, wrong starter type.