wagoon

All blocks are just about identical apart from the key feature of the 86DA block allowing for the easy installation of an EF falcon full counter weight crank. But since your only spending $5000 don't worry about EF cranks of better blocks just run with what you have especially if it's in good condition. You would need to be spending close on $15,000 on the motor to warrant the EF crank
 
Staying with carby will be much easier, cheaper and will net more horsepower especially with the amount of money you have to spend.
 
Next couple of questions will be
1. Is $5000 just on the motor or everything including gearbox, diff, brakes etc
2. Is the car auto or manual? Do you need to convert the car to your desired choice of gearbox?
3. What diff ratio do you want/have
4.What is the car going to be used for.
 
Don't focus on horsepower cause you wont be able to brag you have heaps, but what you do have is a light car compared to all the newer cars and a very torquey engine that will actually make your car fast.

There is absolutely no denying the benefit of a 200 rod setup in a crossflow, BUT does it suit what you want to use the engine for. A 200 rod combo is useful when you are trying to extract the last 2% of power out of a crossflow AND revving the engine to 7500RPM all the time. So if the car is for drag racing where you are trying to win a championship or set the fastest time ever by a NA crossflow, your car is for burnout comps where the engine will be sitting above 7000rpm for 3 minutes at a time or your the new drift king where the limiter is used to show how strong your car is go the 200 rod setup. Unless you are doing these events or an event just like it you DON'T need 200 rod combo. The only other time you will need a 200 rod combo is if your building a car for street machine and so they can fill out the story they can say you have a 200 rod combo.
 
Now to the links you provided.
The cheaper set has flat top pistons, which will limit the cylinder head you can run if you want to use petrol instead of race fuel. You will find it hard to keep the CR down with flat tops and still get zero deck height ( zero deck height is better for performance)
The more expensive set have custom compression ratio but at $2200 is stupid expensive unless you need forged pistons or desperate for 200 rod combo. As an example my solid roller cam crossflow has 10.5:1 CR, will have a rev limit around the 6200-6500rpm, will run on pump fuel and I'm hoping for at least 350fwhp. I am using standard hypetec pistons with hastings rings and it cost me less than $300.
 
So if you win lotto, have money to burn, want the wank factor of forged setup or are trying to set records go for the 200 rod setup. Otherwise save yourself a stupid amount of money and use standard pistons, spend the rest on better parts and go just as fast.

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

I was going to got a hydraulic with 225@50 before my roller cammed crossy came along. 500 holley with aussiespeed manifold, some standard size valves with a bit of home porting. I was going to go along with what the machine shop used in regards to cylinder head setup, just need to make sure you are confident in the machine shop you are using. You can pickup lots of little tid bits here and there on this site if you find a few people who you think know what they are talking about and read what they say in different threads, thats how I have learnt so much. Just keep in mind the discusions can get a little carried away and mild hydraulic cammed setups can turn into full blown race setups pretty quick as rebuild cost for a mild setup are not that far behind wild setups. But keep in mind the expensive part comes in supporting the power, ask me I know

Thats a very good point, factory efi will make a basic turbo setup much much easier. Yep carby can be done but efi is just easier and cheaper to do, even when stating to turn the boost up its easier when you have efi.

Don't need a turbo on a crossy to have neck snapping torque, it's just one way to make power and torque with one heck of a versatile motor. When you can struggle for traction with between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle with 2.92 diff gears in full weight XE with a crossflow you know you have torque. Whether it's NA, turbo or supercharged I don't think it really matter when you have a tough crossy, you will have a neck snapping torque monster if you have done it right.

Turbo gas setups are quite specialised and the initial outlay for the components alone is quite expensive. If you already have factory efi, a turbo efi setup is cost effective, quite easy to put together and it's easy to find a tuner.

Don't need a turbo on a crossy to have neck snapping torque, it's just one way to make power and torque with one heck of a versatile motor. When you can struggle for traction with between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle with 2.92 diff gears in full weight XE with a crossflow you know you have torque. Whether it's NA, turbo or supercharged I don't think it really matter when you have a tough crossy, you will have a neck snapping torque monster if you have done it right.

It's hard to say, if it's a decent Chinese copy with the same wheel sizes as the Garrett gt3582r, it should be reasonably close in spool time. I kind of like having a bit of rev range above idle to putt around off boost when you aren't giving it stick. Given that you have 250 cubes of goodness pushing you around, off boost performance is good and can spool even quite a large turbo without too much lag. Spooling up a GT3582R with the largest 1.06ar housing isn't a problem. Ford went with the 1.06 on the BA-BF XR6T and they come on boost in the low 2000RPM range from memory which is ideal for me even with the smaller rev range of the xflow. Going smaller on the turbine housing would bring the boost threshold lower (when it comes on boost) and choke top end power.

What's your opinion on going a small rear on a standard lower revving engine (ie standardish cam's) especially when using chinese turbo's that are slower to spool up? 

I think the key is your diff gears which you dont mention.
If you look at what LJDB setup is and notice that the diff gears are shortish that is really what helps give the car the low down feeling.
I know this because I had a solid roller cam crossflow with a 4 speed single rail that would "come on cam" at around the 3500rpm but had enough torque down low to push the car along quite will, my car had 2.92 diff gears which tamed down the 283rwhp engine on the street but gave it legs and meant that it felt "lazy" off cam.
The clutch I used in my car is an Exedy cushion button clutch and it had feel like a standard clutch but just slightly firmer. I also had a lighten flywheel which may also have help with the "lighter clutch feel". If your interested I am selling my clutch and lightened flywheel, they only travelled 500kms before being removed from the car.

Simple. Cause you were not interested in the performance side of the car so it was a suggestion to return the car back to standard which is exactly what you were talking about. Exactly the same reason I said you should remove the shelby drop in the front, your not after a performance car.
You said you wanted the parts off my wagon to restore the parts on the sedan you were shit bagging as crap, so I gave them to you and now they are untouched and up for sale? Even the standard drum diff off the sedan that I said I would give a away for free cause it had decent rubbers in the upper and lower arms-you said no I will take it if your going to offer it for free.... and now you have it up forsale. THAT is my reason for frustration.
 
 
Editted to remove unnecessary content

Hmmmmmm. I supplied parts in good faith to be used as spares to help out. To find out they are being sold to make money, in the same week they are taken away for free.........Just decided that the rest of my stuff is going to the dump!! Was trying to help out but guess that's not every ones cup of tea.
 
 
PS I'M OUT

Simple. Cause you were not interested in the performance side of the car so it was a suggestion to return the car back to standard which is exactly what you were talking about. Exactly the same reason I said you should remove the shelby drop in the front, your not after a performance car.
You said you wanted the parts off my wagon to restore the parts on the sedan you were shit bagging as crap, so I gave them to you and now they are untouched and up for sale? Even the standard drum diff off the sedan that I said I would give a away for free cause it had decent rubbers in the upper and lower arms-you said no I will take it if your going to offer it for free.... and now you have it up forsale. THAT is my reason for frustration.
 
 
Editted to remove unnecessary content

Hmmmmmm. I supplied parts in good faith to be used as spares to help out. To find out they are being sold to make money, in the same week they are taken away for free.........Just decided that the rest of my stuff is going to the dump!! Was trying to help out but guess that's not every ones cup of tea.
 
 
PS I'M OUT

Hmmmmmm. I supplied parts in good faith to be used as spares to help out. To find out they are being sold to make money, in the same week they are taken away for free.........Just decided that the rest of my stuff is going to the dump!! Was trying to help out but guess that's not every ones cup of tea.
 
 
PS I'M OUT

Hmmmmmm. I supplied parts in good faith to be used as spares to help out. To find out they are being sold to make money, in the same week they are taken away for free.........Just decided that the rest of my stuff is going to the dump!! Was trying to help out but guess that's not every ones cup of tea.
 
 
PS I'M OUT

As Ando said I have Afco coilovers in the rear of my car and it does handle outstanding. The rear just grips and with 235/60/14 road tyres the car is very grippy and very smooth. The ride is firm but not harsh at all.
Can get better shots if you require

 
These are the top mounts I made, bolts straight into the factory location and was the only "mod" I had to do to the car to make the coilovers fit other than a little trimming to the diff which was pre-done for me

I'm using several parts from precision my car including their hypertec piston. No I'm not sponsored or have anything to do with things company other than being a customer. They have always been very helpful and had parts that I need in stock and I'm lucky enough to live within 1 hour travel time from one of their warehouses.
This is my 6 cylinder crossflow powered car with the precision parts in it

Well last year in December i got a F100 without motor or box for free so that became my newest project. It has a 3.50:1 lsd 9in in it and i am building up a 250xflow with a blow thru carby and a turbo which will be backed up with a T5. Well here are some pics of the work done so far.
 

 
When I got it
 

 
 

Stripping
 

 

 

Tray I picked up cheap
 

 
The damage
 

 

 

 
The fun
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
As it sits the bottom end of the motor is nearly ready to go in with the gearbox. Cab has been stripped and is ready for paint doors and guards are stripped, rust free and in primer and tray is 95%repaired just need to weld it out. Have also done a diff flip and painted the enginebay and chassis
 

I just got of the phone to them trying to track down the delivery.
 
I mentioned to him about the foam crumbling, he said they had issues 10 - 12 years ago.
With this new foam not one has been returned .
 
They said just use a good quality foam oil.
As he said, a can will out last the filter ,so penrite it is.

Just be aware that the foam filters in those ramflo filters can be a bit iffy when you live in a dusty environment. Also the foam can becomes brittle with age which causes them to breakup and either let more contaminants in or some of the filter material be pulled into the engine.
I had a ramflo filter on a weber carby I bought for my datto (second hand carby that came with the ramflo filter), every time I touched the filter it would crumble and I noticed a dust film inside the carby when I replaced the filter after a while.

I like the exotic metals myself... A bit of strontium or even palladium.... Totally worth it

Why stop there, just go straight to brass

Because your a MAN and that's what men do!!!