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BryceVR

Just another mad idea!

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So,

I have this tidy Cortina, its got a 500 Holley, and a good cam (too much really) and goes like a screamer but spits unburnt juice at idle (that's normal) and needs 3K to get going with a schwezenger type clutch.
I also have a reasonably low mileage EFI engine in perfect condition.
Driving the HiPo engine is fun but a bit of an effort, Clutch is hard, it's tweaky in traffic etc and I only really give it a go every 3 months or so.

I've spent more on the chassis than I'd really like to think about and thought I'd drop the HiPo engine out and leave it with the EFI engine for day to day, given that the new club plate rules give me more opportunities to use the car.

My thinking is to put in a tap for the tank to switch between the Hi pressure EFI and the Lo Pressure carby pump and simply lift the engine/gearbox out and swap.
The carby engine is good for lots of HP, but a good well setup EFI will still give me 250+ hp with an auto for around town.
I'd like to hear what you all think, an engine swap is about a 2hr job so I'll keep the HiPo for competition but using the car gives me a chance to sort the chassis a bit better.
I'd set up the EFI with a wolf/Haltech/Motech/ whatever brand I can score at a good price and leave the crusty trusty BW35 there.
 

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I've got an A frame and a block and tackle so an engine swap is not a real hassle, saving for a hoist now, got the money for the hoist but working on the concrete slab to put it on, you need 16 ft of head room on top of the slab.  :)

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What model Corty is it? Mine was a TF and since mine had an efi engine already (running a WW strommy) I also toyed with the idea of efi but found that #6 runner would have fouled the heater box and/or firewall. I went straight gas in the end.

 

I'm sure someone on here has done it, but I could also suggest getting an EA-ED log manifold and adapting that to the crossflow flange but use all the EEC-5 gear including computer (also done by folks on here) and do away with the vane meter of the XE-XF setup.

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What diff gears have you got. I have Te 4 speed, 3.7 diff gears, camtech 510, 4bbl holley ect and it takes off like a rocket and can easily pull top gear at lower speeds. Id be looking into this first.

When I had a 500 on it, it went even better down.

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I think the key is your diff gears which you dont mention.

If you look at what LJDB setup is and notice that the diff gears are shortish that is really what helps give the car the low down feeling.

I know this because I had a solid roller cam crossflow with a 4 speed single rail that would "come on cam" at around the 3500rpm but had enough torque down low to push the car along quite will, my car had 2.92 diff gears which tamed down the 283rwhp engine on the street but gave it legs and meant that it felt "lazy" off cam.

The clutch I used in my car is an Exedy cushion button clutch and it had feel like a standard clutch but just slightly firmer. I also had a lighten flywheel which may also have help with the "lighter clutch feel". If your interested I am selling my clutch and lightened flywheel, they only travelled 500kms before being removed from the car.

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What model Corty is it? Mine was a TF and since mine had an efi engine already (running a WW strommy) I also toyed with the idea of efi but found that #6 runner would have fouled the heater box and/or firewall. I went straight gas in the end.

 

I'm sure someone on here has done it, but I could also suggest getting an EA-ED log manifold and adapting that to the crossflow flange but use all the EEC-5 gear including computer (also done by folks on here) and do away with the vane meter of the XE-XF setup.

No heater box, no heater, no battery, no fuel pump, just a Davis Craig elec water pump. It will fit with enough room to throw a party under the bonnet. Setting up both fuel deliveries is really all that concerns me I think?

 

What diff gears have you got. I have Te 4 speed, 3.7 diff gears, camtech 510, 4bbl holley ect and it takes off like a rocket and can easily pull top gear at lower speeds. Id be looking into this first.

When I had a 500 on it, it went even better down.

I have 3 diffs, one EA LSD for track/street, a hillclimb diff (a 3.45 from memory) and a locker. A Corty runs smaller wheels so all diffs effectively are 1 or 2 steps shorter than a Falcon diff.

Changing the diff is a 15 minute job so I'd just do that when I swapped donks.

I was thinking of the 2.92 for the EFI. Not an overworked engine just a cam, roller rockers and some headwork with a 2 1/2" etc.

EFI let's you tune most gremlins out with the software so, I was thinking it would just let me get a bit more use out of the car instead of the 5-6 times a year it gets run now.

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I think the key is your diff gears which you dont mention.

If you look at what LJDB setup is and notice that the diff gears are shortish that is really what helps give the car the low down feeling.

I know this because I had a solid roller cam crossflow with a 4 speed single rail that would "come on cam" at around the 3500rpm but had enough torque down low to push the car along quite will, my car had 2.92 diff gears which tamed down the 283rwhp engine on the street but gave it legs and meant that it felt "lazy" off cam.

The clutch I used in my car is an Exedy cushion button clutch and it had feel like a standard clutch but just slightly firmer. I also had a lighten flywheel which may also have help with the "lighter clutch feel". If your interested I am selling my clutch and lightened flywheel, they only travelled 500kms before being removed from the car.

The car goes like a bat out of hell but not really fun in traffic etc.

That's why the EFI option for just running around. When I want to go to the track I'd just swap back to the manual, carby engine and run a shakedown.

I'd just like to drive it a bit more and it's a bit precocious for just going for a quick spin.

 

 

PM me about the clutch, I'm always on the lookout for improved kit.

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Lol that's your answer for everything, from where to find a good Thai restaurant to obtaining peace in the Middle East

"Just turbo it"

Lol. Yep, it solves everything. It just makes sense to me with a Ford 6 in particular (or any small capacity engine really).

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Turbo the efi motor and you have the best of both worlds

Great idea but...

Can't run injection in comp. must run original induction and spark. So I can run a electronic dizzy but not a Megajolt etc

You get the idea.

I may turbo the EFI down the track (I LOVE turbos) but first I have to get it in the car and running.

A pre-loved haltech and a few hours with a soldering iron and I reckon I'll make it go but still need to swap back easily.

I see the biggest issue is the fuel pump so I'll mount them an hardpoint bracket and swap at the same time seems to me to be the easiest option.

As you all know to crack 200KW is about $10k but, you can get 170-180kw for less than half that.

with a 950Kg car, it's enough to stomp on most "special vehicles". So if I get about that using a stocker, a cam and a good EFI setup I'm a happy camper.

 

 

So we have this

 EFI%20X-flow-0.jpg

 

to go into this

roughly.

Corty%20cropped.jpg

 

I have no recent pictures of the Corty as she was put away about 4 years ago with some panels in primer and a few bits incomplete.

I'm here now because I'm about to restart the 12 year project.

 

 

 

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Before you say it...

I can't use the original computer because weight, loads cam etc. etc. etc.
Even with engine stock, the engine would be unmanageable due to loads, gearing etc.

Dropping an effective aftermarket ECU is fairly simple but painstaking.

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