Fingers

I haven't even got to the Darrin Morgan podcast yet, been listening to lots of the earlier ones.
Lots of great guests with heaps of knowledge.
The half hour drive each morning and afternoon is great.

Thanks a lot for this Rob, really learning and enjoying

If you like podcasts and want to learn this is it. Tom Martino and Darrin Morgan share soooooooo much knowledge its awesome.
 
http://directory.libsyn.com/episode/index/show/readingtondigital/id/6783136 
 

Rule no 1 never throw any part out until you have the replacement and know it fits

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle

Love the sound of 3" and areochamber!

If you want my opinion (Hahah, Good one.) wihout reading the whole thread.

If you want EFI.
Fucking put it on. 
There is little to nil excuse for using throttle body injection of aftermarket "Bolt on" self learning systems when proper EFi installations can be adapted and used so easily with much better results.

If you want to keep a "carb" manifold and look. Just leave the fkn carby on it..

In my experience, the oil just gets that smell about it (to an extent), especially if doing short trips and in winter. This is due to the fuel not vapourising properly in the cold weather in a cold engine, causing the fuel to stick to the bores and wash down into the oil below the pistons.

Carby cars run a bit richer and can go out of tune over time, so maybe the carby needs looking at. If you take it on a good high-speed run (I'm talking a few hundred km), the oil level might drop a bit. That's the fuel evaporating out of it (not the engine suddenly "using oil" as many seem to think).

Best way to tell if the oil is being diluted excessively is to rub a bit between your fingers. If it feels slimy and smooth, then it's doing its job. If you can feel your fingerprints grinding as you rub them together, then the oil has thinned or broken down, and should be replaced.

Yes mechanical fuel pumps can fail in the diaphragm and pump fuel into the sump, but this doesn't happen very often.

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Yep family time. 
 
Thanks for the kind words men.  This crossy will be number 4 in my crossy family.  I have the burnout car (old flat tappet speedway motor), the plan B speedway flat tappet 2 barrel meth motor - currently on loan to Brenton,  THOR the roller cam (gee I must get that one pieced together) and now the Mad scientist. 
 
Do I have a crossy addiction - YES!!!  Oh and that's not including the customer engines and engine parts I've done.  I really should move on but I just love them so much.
 
Like last night at 9.30pm when I got on top of a couple of carb issues on the burnout ute and I did a test skid in front of work.  My tenant in my other shed was there.  He is a massive Holden fan and he was looking at the ute when I was fixing it.  He was a bit impressed when I started it and when I did the 1st,2nd, 3rd static test skid his jaw dropped.  He just stood there, mouth wide open.  Bloody classic.  he said "look at the smoke - its just compound smoke - so thick",  then just back to stunned silence. 
 
Gotta love the underdog engine.  Anyway back on track.  Here is the sump I am going to use on the mad scientist engine.  It is not one of my own designs and could be a lot better - BUT it came with the carton of beer motor so it's getting used.  I has increased capacity and a basic crank scraper and half a tray so it will do for the shop ute.  Anyway here it is - apologies for the crap photo -
 

Had a girlfriend once who was 110 on the seat...

Next to the waterpump on a clevo is for the temp sensor that goes to the dash,
 
The threaded hole on top of the thermostat housing is 3/8" Gas, Tridon thermo fan switch will fit straight into there,
A TFS110 will turn fans on at 85°C & off at 80°C & TFS111 is on at 95°C & off at 90°C.
simply run the ground wire from the relay to the TFS. I run this on the Clevo my Black ute

They look nice too. 4 into 1's are tight in the XB, had to reroute the trans lines, and they cook the trans fluid and the floor.
 
 
Still.......... the noise.  😍

Yes correct. 
It is a direct swap yes. 
I just figure with how tired the 1300 is, i dont think I’ll achieve anything in regards to performance from a good dizzy on it. 
the current setup is reliable enough, and now that its running better with the vac advance disconnected, unless it completely dies, its reliable enough for this engine. 
 
on a side note. Thanks to @Mr Polson for delivering them a couple years back, i have a set of .020” oversized 1300 pistons. If i ever wanted to built a high comp, 1600 screamer, id stick the 1300 pistons in a 1600, which ups the compression quite a bit. It would also rev pretty hard with that setup. 
 
Or for something different, money no object, 1300s can produce good power. There is currently a Mk1 race car for sale which is only 1300. Freshly built race engine producing 108hp at the wheels. Thats nearly double the power a stock 1300 made at the flywheel  

That said, a good ignition for the 1300 is a direct swap to the 1600.

Yep Slydog has it. Flat tappets aren't actually flat. They're slightly domed, and the cam lobes are slightly tapered and offset to the cam bore. They don't push the lifter squarely, but rather roll it on one outside edge while pushing it up. This causes the lifter to rotate in its bore and wear the face evenly. The minute it stops rotating is when it gets wiped.

This is also why you need a zinc oil at all times, especially run-in (trust me on this, learnt the hard way) as the pressure on that very small sliding contact patch between cam and lifter would easily be thousands of PSI.

This is why many OEMs went to roller cams in the 80s. Not for performance, but because they had to start taking zinc out of the oil due to it causing cat failure.

Try to avoid turning the engine over too much once you've installed the cam and lubed it. You want the cam lube to be on it until the very moment you (hopefully) fire it up and get that oil splashing on it at 2000-2500 rpm.



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I just measured the overall height difference between a 600 vac Holley and a 425 on a 650 Holley throttle plate, the Impco is 30mm higher.
Not having the plate saves 12mm, but that leaves it 20mm higher.
I measure the 425 on the Holley throttle plate as 162 mm high, so close enough to your measurement of 158 mm.
If yours is 174 mm and clears (just), I should be able to get it to work.

I did that trick on a Valiant slant 6 a while ago. Shortened the L/H mount bracket 3/4" to stand the engine up a bit, and get some clearance for a long runner 4 barrel.

I read the entire article that you referenced above Dean from google. 
 
now ive read the entire explanation, and I understand how the methylated spirits method works, im confident in giving that a shot. 
in basic terms its the alcohol in metho that mixes with water, then the alcohol dissolves in petrol. 
the author of that write up recommended filling up with E10 once in a while, which is essentially what adding metho to the petrol is turning your fuel into.
however i will NOT be filling up with E10, but i will give the metho a crack tomorrow to try and solve this issue, as a once off.  

sure is. I shared the link to RSOCV Facebook group. Yeah lot of people agreeing how bull shit it is 

It's do as I say, not as I do
Very hypocritical

Yeah i know its not impossible, but i just find this sort of thing so so shit. 
im not the only, a lot of guys from the car club, including ex pat UK folk, dont agree with this sort of shit 

Not much new happening with the Esky. 

I took it out for a spin for the first time since we went into lockdown. Since its last drive, I changed the accelerator pump jet back to a single squirt jet, so it wasnt pumping fuel down the second barrel when the butterfly was closed. 
 
It took a bit to get started, then it was a real pig for a while lol. coughing, backfiring through the carby. 
Driving it, it had the hesitation back, mid revs again. i was thinking it was the pump jet again. in anger, i did a U turn to head home, and gave it a squirt, WOT through every gear, right to red line, up to 100km/h....and presto, the hesitation went away. so kept going for my drive for about an hour. 
God it is nice to drive, compared to the XF and Discovery, with with steering boxes and recirculating ball steering. the Escort feels so so tight by comparison. 
 
**NOW FOR A BIT OF A RANT** 
 
The link below is to an eBay ad for a Mk1 Escort the same as mine, 1975 1300XL, thats for sale in the UK. the moment i look at it, i knew it was an Australian car. the thing is immaculate. better than mine  
Sure enough, the guy bought it and took it from Australia in 2013, now he is selling it, and he clearly makes a point of saying he wont sell to anyone abroad (no international sales). 
 
This really, REALLY pisses me off. They buy them out of Australia due to the lack of rust in our cars, and the fact our shells are better (double plated strut towers for example), then they pull this crap. 
Fair game when it was for sale in Australia, for him to grab it, but to then refuse to sell it back to anyone who might want to bring it back to Australia, what a shit act IMO. 🤬
 
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283882802254?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2648

Plus one for the injectors.  I will be going with 1000cc units on mine to future proof it.  With the autronic ecu and Ray Hall tuning it I am confident that it will still perform well at idle.
 
I downloaded and printed out a thread from the other forum many years ago when I was thinking of turbo crossflows.  It was written by a smart bloke and he recommended 600cc minimum so I am with the fuel being an issue.
 
Same bloke recommended two JIC fittings welded to the factory rail to feed the beast and one in the middle going to a rising rate reg for the return.  very simple set up and really bugger all cost.  I have seen SARD rising rate regs come up often on Gumtree from unfinished dreams. 
 
I'm still not 100% sold on this common idea of return from the rail going to the surge tank - but everyone seems to do it.  I will not be doing it on mine as I don't want hot fuel return to the surge/swirl.  if you are worried about the engine emptying the surge or the lift pump not providing enough volume to keep the swirl full, then fix that issue.  I'd rather have hot, under pressure fuel being released into a larger volume of fuel (at the bottom of the tank so it doesn't aerate) than into a swirl, but each to their own.

If you are decent at wiring I would just cut it off at the connectors and pull the lot out. Imagine chasing a fault in there. After burning my first car's loom with bad wiring, I made sure I did the right thing second time round and put a hotrod loom in.
Best get a new interior from some rusted out thing too. More holes than religious dogma in there