Kiwi-E

Funny, I was just going to update on the carby and suddenly there's a new post!

Thanks for that mate, that's not far off what I have, looks like you went a bit richer in the primaries and much leaner in the secondaries, I went 63/89 but I did open the primary main bleeds a tad (one drill size over stock, probably 37 up from 35), which has the effect of lowering the effective jet number but altering the fuel curve too. Your squirters are likely right for a bigger motor (351 vs 302), I have 25/37 in mine and it feels spot on.

The biggest gain on this carby, economy-wise, has been idle circuit tuning. I have opened up the idle air bleeds a ton (it's at about 70 now) and it has made a massive difference to cruise economy. I haven't touched the IFRs as I prefer to play with the bleeds before drilling the metering blocks, and if it comes to the worst, (ie going too big) I can just drill and tap them for replaceable bleeds.

So... This is the 4th carby I've had, and in the past, the absolute best that any of the others could do was 420 to a 65 litre tank, with the average sitting around 380-400. This last tank, albeit with lots of motorway cruising, just got 460 and only used 60L. So sitting around the 13L/100km mark. I'm pretty stoked, and I'm sure that on a long trip with pure highway running and a careful right foot, I could crack 500 k's. That's 6-cylinder territory!

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Good info, cheers for that.
👍

I'm a bit late to the party here, but I ran the same carb on my mild 351c (302 2v heads) with a eldelbrock performer manifold & spread bore adapter.
 
After messing around with the wideband gauge and some street tuning it ran really good.
 
After a number of different squirter trials, I ended up increased the primary squirters from 25's up to 31's and the secondary squiters from 37's up to 42's. This kept the AFR readings pretty smooth when matting it from any rpm. (manual trans) The factory acc. pump cams seemed to work best for me. 30cc primary pump and 50cc secondary pump.
 
Looking at my jet box, i lowered the primary's from 68's to 66's, and the secondaries from 76's to 75's. Although I probably may have gone back to 76's to be safe. WOT AFR was about 13:1 from memory with the 75's.
 
I never played with the primary PV, and can't remember what vacuum it was. Secondary PV was blocked off.
 
Different motors and all,.... but there's a reference for what seemed to work pretty good for my motor for what its worth.
 
Edit:
Just looked again at the jetting you've tried already .... Quite different,....... Take the above with a grain of salt
 

I'm a bit late to the party here, but I ran the same carb on my mild 351c (302 2v heads) with a eldelbrock performer manifold & spread bore adapter.
 
After messing around with the wideband gauge and some street tuning it ran really good.
 
After a number of different squirter trials, I ended up increased the primary squirters from 25's up to 31's and the secondary squiters from 37's up to 42's. This kept the AFR readings pretty smooth when matting it from any rpm. (manual trans) The factory acc. pump cams seemed to work best for me. 30cc primary pump and 50cc secondary pump.
 
Looking at my jet box, i lowered the primary's from 68's to 66's, and the secondaries from 76's to 75's. Although I probably may have gone back to 76's to be safe. WOT AFR was about 13:1 from memory with the 75's.
 
I never played with the primary PV, and can't remember what vacuum it was. Secondary PV was blocked off.
 
Different motors and all,.... but there's a reference for what seemed to work pretty good for my motor for what its worth.
 
Edit:
Just looked again at the jetting you've tried already .... Quite different,....... Take the above with a grain of salt
 

i you can find them.. 
3.23 or 3.27 is fairly common., needs to be from a coil spring diff, (EA EB ED falcon, or NA NC or LTD equiv) 
LSD was an option, called "spin resistant differential" 
the EF and EL can also fit ... bit more mucking around.
 
the EA had 25 spline axles, (fine for a mild V8 still) rest of them are 28 spline with solid discs (unlike prior had vented discs XC XD XE XF)
 
EB /ED was the best choice if possible.. the series 2 EB diff and later you'll need to press in the wider lower bushes on the trailing arms, or add some washers to take up the slack at worst case..
 
hand brake cable from EA EB ED sedan will fit XE XF sedan with that diff  
 
the EA diff has the same yoke on the diff as XF, the EB onwards you'd ideally use the EB ED sedan tailshaft (you can swap the diff yokes, or you can probably get a hybrid uni joint but it's not likely as easy to find. 
 
with the brake line, you can get a metric to impreial adapter to use the diff brake hose (off the diff T piece) or you can do what i used to do(convert the brake line nuts to imperial on the diff at the T piece end..  and use the XF T piece... )
 
the EF EL diffs bolt up same, but you'll need to make up brake lines as they mount to the car at wheel arch ends not in the middle with a t piece..
hand brake cable also is a bit oddball . 
 
see what you can find, 
there's probably a tutorial on here somewhere for each.. this was off the top of My head

Reasons why you'd do this:
- Cheap and easy to get (roughly
$110 from Ripco trade)
- Extra clearance to headers
- Easier, lighter to fit/remove
- Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty.
 
Downsides:
- You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new.
- You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course)
- Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed.
- Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways).
- You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8.
 
Anyway....
 
Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8")
 

 
Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one.
 

 
Front view
 

 
Roughed out with the hackasaurus
(Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face).

 
Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file:
 

 
Top view:
 
You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all.
 
Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm).
 
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I also scored 9 std bore clevos they all need cleaning and de rusting quite a good selection from 1973 to 1982 i figure to just clean em up and maybe sell a few becoming hard to find in std bore

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Yea... its pretty scary when you look at the oem size..... the stud must be a pretty good grade of steel




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They look like the same saddles I'm using which fit fine with king springs.
.... it could just be the photo angle, but it almost looks like the springs diameter is too small to suit the 'seats' in the spring saddle?

As for balljoints, I'm midway through hacking with a front end using the savy motorsport wedged balljoints. There's a couple things to consider about them if you were thinking of getting them.

With the 1" shelbie drop mod and the savy balljoint, this was about as much compression travel as I felt comfortable with before top and bottom balljoints became close to binding.

235/40/17 tyre for reference

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Pretty sure the first version of the XDRIFT XD sedan with IRS used an AU IRS setup. From memory there was some good detailed pics of it back over on xfalcon....


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Pretty sure the first version of the XDRIFT XD sedan with IRS used an AU IRS setup. From memory there was some good detailed pics of it back over on xfalcon....


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Hey mate how did you get on with this?  ive made more progress and discovered Titan1500 on youtube and well this has now been ordered  https://simplestage.shop/products/brpb-boost-referenced-power-valve  $130 delivered NZD. 
 
Titan1500 has about 4 short awesome vids that explain it all..super simple. 
 
 

Stalled currently. Got as far as buying some of the components and mocking up 2/3 of the exhaust manifold.

Then got sidetracked with a clevo swap into another car.

Hopefully get back into this in a few months time when the clevo xe is certed and on the road.


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Xf but its all the same

Rears


Fronts

Shit pic but the fronts stick out further from the pillar than the backs if that makes sense. (Bigger standoff)


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I'll have to suss out that top seal installer. Might have to spin something up in the lathe. The rollers behind the seal would have to come out then, if I'm not mistaken.

Having to stretch the Teflon seals sounds like a real stuff-around. If I can re-use the ones on it, I'll do that instead of potentially stuffing the whole lot. I could pick the worst of the two shafts, try and change the seals on it, then if I screw it up I have a useable set still.

I always wondered what the little Allen key plug was for in the top plate. You take it out, and when you wind the steering over to the right spot, there is another Allen key inside that lines up with the hole. That's an adjuster in the end of the sector shaft that turns a little worm drive down inside it, which then turns a gear that's splined to an eccentric on the sector wheel needle bearing and winds the sector wheel in and out of mesh with the worm gear. So you can actually adjust the mechanical free play with the box installed.

There is another adjuster down in the wheel well that you can wind in and out to take up the piston rack to sector shaft clearance. This takes out any slight delay in assistance from steering inputs. Has a lock nut and Allen key.

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650 Will be fine. Cyl head will limit hp potential not cam or carb. I understand the budget build and you can mod the head later to suit. 
 
Cam I would suggest you research US boosted engine combos and what is currently used. Been as your cube limited a modern cam idea works better here. Mine is pretty well what most call a NA profile but my grinder does the same on RB engines making over a G of hp. 

About $1200NZD +GST for a Quick fuel 650cfm blow through ........ Which is not very appealing.
 
Think I'll do some more homework on converting a double pumper before making the choice.

About $1200NZD +GST for a Quick fuel 650cfm blow through ........ Which is not very appealing.
 
Think I'll do some more homework on converting a double pumper before making the choice.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-blow-carb-less-50/
Here's another article on modding a Holley for boost. It would be a damn sight cheaper than buying a finished one. Maybe more fun too.

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Demon was taken over by Holley a few years back so should have similar quality standards. I'm not sure which market segment each line is catering for, but the Demons were much more tuneable via screw-in air bleeds, etc and some other hot rod tricks built into them. Maybe you could find some more recent reviews?

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I've comitted to the blow through setup. Have ordered a aussiespeed manifold and a programable MSD 6al.

Going for a simular setup to in the above pics. Might even look at throwing a cam at it at some stage.

I am currently looking at the Quickfuel 650 blow through (SS-650-BAN) and the 650 Mighty Demon blow through (5282020BT)
The demon being the cheaper of the two.

I still need to choose a suitable fuel pump and rising rate regular too.




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Id suggest blow thru over any factory ecu.
 
Or a aftermarket ecu like a MS3 or even a FAST set up with a screen.

I have had serrious thoughts about using an e series computer and j3 chip.... it is probably a more sensible option than the blow through.


Also found photos from this setup off facebook from awhile back
...... from the sounds of it it went allright for what it is. I think i'll keep looking down the blow through root for now.





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I have had serrious thoughts about using an e series computer and j3 chip.... it is probably a more sensible option than the blow through.


Also found photos from this setup off facebook from awhile back
...... from the sounds of it it went allright for what it is. I think i'll keep looking down the blow through root for now.





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Sounds like pretty good combo to me and basically my plan for my XF Ghia but with EFI and EL ecu...

I have a Quickfuel 450 d/p that I did have on my 302w but I couldn’t get it 100%, it would be pig rich or lean as on my AFR (best thing I’ve ever purchased) gauge. Changed all sort of bits and gave up.

Brought a new Quickfuel 650 d/p Brawler without choke horn and it was nearly perfect out of the box, changed jets down on front and rear by two numbers and it’s near perfect.
I thought a 650 would be too big for the little 302w.

The Quickfuel blow through 650s have a good rep.


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