jca25

A j3 chip in the stock ecu would be your best bet, although if you look up bill hooten on bookface he does stand alone looms, one of his options is to retro fit a barra loom and ecu to the sohc 4.0

You can do away with it all and use an e series distributor with a msd or ice ignition to control timing, or a modified crossflow distributor if you want a purely mechanical distributor, that's assuming you're going carb?

Yea the plan was 408 stoker for the van, but never been sure on a bb, like I have the spare 302 at home, just more of a price weigh up on things on parts as I build myself and the machine work gets done for me at cost or less

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Yea the plan was 408 stoker for the van, but never been sure on a bb, like I have the spare 302 at home, just more of a price weigh up on things on parts as I build myself and the machine work gets done for me at cost or less

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Either is good ,mounts n extractors are easy to find,460 van is mega

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Yea the plan was 408 stoker for the van, but never been sure on a bb, like I have the spare 302 at home, just more of a price weigh up on things on parts as I build myself and the machine work gets done for me at cost or less

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Big blocks are cheap horsepower but heavy. Strokers get it done with much less weight but the bits are expensive, only the block basically remains, everything else is turfed for new bits

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I scored a crank spacer this morning you need this on a early internally balanced crank

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Do sell these blocks and cranks off much now

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I never had a problem with mine or them it turned up great fitted correctly and they were helpful as ever so must of got them on a good day lol

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when i contacted them about mine, they said i installed the spigot wrong (i didnt), then they basically get fucked,   it wasnt their business to fix their fuck up that cost me 3k, new gearbox rebuild after 600km, and redrill of a bellhousing due to poor machining - so i just tell everyone - cost them more then 3k in lost sales 

I did consider something like this to be honest…
 
was going to speak to malwood to see if something like this could work with the xf
 
https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/ford-falcon-xg-under-dash-hydraulic-clutch-pedal-assembly/

This is said fork they say to use with that bellhousing, now don't the Cleveland and Windsor use the same engine mounts?? So that would make the Windsor sit in the bay as the Cleveland, the crossflow the engine plates to the x member is different so not sure were u are going with measuring it, if need be may need to make ur own up to suit

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Nice one, here is a few pics off mine I made all my pipes new and just bent it to suit the t block bolts on were the bracket for the flex hose that would go to the xf diff.

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Thanks so much @jca25 - ill go through this.

Nice one, here is a few pics off mine I made all my pipes new and just bent it to suit the t block bolts on were the bracket for the flex hose that would go to the xf diff.

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For me with the brakes which I did with my car, u are spending the time to do it do the finer details.

Pull the back brakes lines off a EF/EL including the t block which bolts to the floor, then drill the brackets that hold the flex hoses to the chassis off.

To make the the t block to work on ur xf half along the tunnel should be a joiner undo and take to a brake place and get to put the correct flare nut to go into the t block (sorry mind gone blank can't remember the number of nut), weld the flex hose brackets on then it's set up the same way as EF/EL in all of this aspect.

With handbrake cable, mine was setup with a wagon cable which was off a a bench seat wagon so it use a foot parkbrake so possible to use some parts from one of them and parts from a sedan together.

Also best part of using ford gear is when then checked my van for rego it all looks factory and it's not aftermarket stuff so they didn't want it engineered

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For me with the brakes which I did with my car, u are spending the time to do it do the finer details.

Pull the back brakes lines off a EF/EL including the t block which bolts to the floor, then drill the brackets that hold the flex hoses to the chassis off.

To make the the t block to work on ur xf half along the tunnel should be a joiner undo and take to a brake place and get to put the correct flare nut to go into the t block (sorry mind gone blank can't remember the number of nut), weld the flex hose brackets on then it's set up the same way as EF/EL in all of this aspect.

With handbrake cable, mine was setup with a wagon cable which was off a a bench seat wagon so it use a foot parkbrake so possible to use some parts from one of them and parts from a sedan together.

Also best part of using ford gear is when then checked my van for rego it all looks factory and it's not aftermarket stuff so they didn't want it engineered

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thanks @deankdx and @jca25
 
I am trying to source the brake lines, brackets and t piece with bracket from an EF at the moment and will try to fit this to the xf. 
 
Also trying to get a video\photo of how it looks under ef\el,
 
I have the brake line adapter - imperial\metric adapter ready to go, so this will still play a role in this.
 
But I think this is the way to go.
 
Handbrake cable - I think I found a company that will help with tha, but ill need to share the fittings and the measurements. Ill sort that out later
 
Thanks again for all the suggestions, will share the final result when its done.

For me with the brakes which I did with my car, u are spending the time to do it do the finer details.

Pull the back brakes lines off a EF/EL including the t block which bolts to the floor, then drill the brackets that hold the flex hoses to the chassis off.

To make the the t block to work on ur xf half along the tunnel should be a joiner undo and take to a brake place and get to put the correct flare nut to go into the t block (sorry mind gone blank can't remember the number of nut), weld the flex hose brackets on then it's set up the same way as EF/EL in all of this aspect.

With handbrake cable, mine was setup with a wagon cable which was off a a bench seat wagon so it use a foot parkbrake so possible to use some parts from one of them and parts from a sedan together.

Also best part of using ford gear is when then checked my van for rego it all looks factory and it's not aftermarket stuff so they didn't want it engineered

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With the pedal box I would use the Auto pedal box and see if u can find a rare spares shop that has one these kits or maybe someone online and fit it

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With the pedal box I would use the Auto pedal box and see if u can find a rare spares shop that has one these kits or maybe someone online and fit it

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Thanks have sourced Xe hydraulic pedal box, should do the job 🤞

Not knowing your system, Is the 3rd battery the same as the 2nd one ?  Always good to match batteries of the same amps etc (and age). If the 2nd one has been in operation for a while it could bring the newly added one down in charge to that level.
 I would only add another battery into a bank if I could determine that the original aux battery was holding its charge to the capacity of the new one. Sometimes its better to add 2 new ones together in parrallel. You might need to change the cabling size to match the capacity and can the alternator keep up demand.
 
A high amp alternator doesn't alway allow a charge to another battery until it senses a fully float charge, 1st the starting one, then to the 1st aux then the 2nd aux might get some charge. Thats a lot of driving necessary to charge all 3 up.
 
I'm assuming this but do not know how you system has been set up.

EA run TFI dizzy, EL run TFI dizzy, so that's ok. EA ecu will want base timing of 10BTDC regardless of motor, but I'm not familiar with AU motor. I take it they only have a 0 degree or TDC timing mark.
In that case, get a piece of string, go around the crank. Take string and measure length.
Then divide Length by 36
This will give you the distance of ten degrees of timing.
Put white mark that distance to right of original timing mark on balancer and when in base timing mode, line the new mark on balancer with original TDC marker and you will be at 10BTDC.

I have a digital timing light which is even easier. Increase timing on light to 10 degrees advanced and mark spot on the motor, then return light to 0 and align new mark with original crank marker.Done.

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