ando76

Yep, when they were new. Now I doubt any of those old systems would be close to being able to deal with anything. The pure wear and tear on the vane and all the other systems would just push them to next to useless. Hell if you even let the rocker cover seal and dipstick seal go they go into spaz mode. 

It’s probably more of a case that the cat brought the horrendous efi set up back closer to original parameters and hit an air fuel ratio that the engine liked. 
 

Yeah. Have seen them and the theory on them is very good. It definitely atomises the pump squirt better than the original Holley design. The ask is bloody steep tho. Especially for something that helps in such a small part of the carbs operation and something that could be tuned out with correct pump cam, accelerator pump nozzle size and pump cc. ....

I thought stock push rods were the safety net, against over-revving a crossflow?

Crow sell 5/16, .110" wall thickness pushrods and most sell 5/16.080" wall. 3/8 pushrods are also available as gerg has highlighted. 
 
The stock pushrods are marginal at best. 5/16, .080" wall would be the minimum I'd use. 

Bloody good feeling. No bullshit performance here.


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Hi mate,
                  The car belongs to my son and I reckon he was talkin to you as you said. I have a new O2 sensor kit that I was going to set up on my Falcon to tune tunnel ram carbs , We intend to weld a bung onto Cortina extractors and give it a go.  I have had a breakthrough with the crossflow. I decided to play around with the carb tune and change jet sizes. I went a full 5 sizes bigger on primaries to see if I could make something change. It did exactly that it made it much worse , it caused it to breakdown at 2200.  Next I went back a heap of jet sizes on primaries from where I started and it improved the thing a whole heap. It is twice as responsive down low and revs straight past 4000 without a problem. it does still however play up a little higher up. Next I will fit a decent Tacho as Not sure how accurate Cortina one is , O2 sensor , and get some more jets to play with.  thanks for all the good advice everyone.

Sounds remarkably like the engine someone messaged my business page about the other day.
To answer some questions;
. yes 3&4 will run hotter (leaner) than the other cylinders due to their location.  We have played with the plenum to address this issue and had some success. 
. As you've tried everything from the ignition side of things and most other mechanical things I'd be looking at tune, especially looking at those plugs. As I told the bloke that messaged me - get a $200 o2 sensor and gauge from Just Race Parts and then you'll have half a chance of getting the tune close.  
. If the carb is east/wested it's not uncommon to have to pull fuel out of the primaries and a good amount, as your miss is occurring early on I'd say your lucky to be cracking the secondaries so it may well be that.  But without an o2 sensor - your in guess land. Oh and usually the fuel you take out of the primaries ends up going back into the secondaries. 
. I agree with gerg- the best money you ever will spend on your car is on a dyno session with a competent operator who knows carbs. 
. You mention that your running the Hall effect dizzy (which is good). Have you tried another dizzy?  I have had Hall effect sensor go walk about and cause this condition. 
. Has coil condition been checked? Not "it's brand new" - has primary and secondary resistance been confirmed as in spec. Both when the coil is cold and after being driven.  Even new stuff fails - especially in the made in China era. 

Fuchs for the win.  If it's a streeter - 1/3 of a bottle of brake in lube with every oil,change helps. Race motors the oil gets dumped every meeting so less of an issue. 

Fuchs for the win.  If it's a streeter - 1/3 of a bottle of brake in lube with every oil,change helps. Race motors the oil gets dumped every meeting so less of an issue. 

Here is a side shot to show the extra clearance. It's about 1/2" less pump snout.




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Don't use the crow timing gear set, use ROLLMASTER. Trust me.  
 
Jump onto precisions website and just get stock replacement springs, that way you won't need retainers and locks - unnecessary expense.  Same with pushrods, stock will be fine and if you can find some xc units you'll have an even stronger pushrods. 
 
Forget the unmbrella seals, they are junk. You will got the proper efi valve stem seals in the full gasket set. 
 
Yes if you got with a crow stock replacement cam then you will need the dg2 dizzy gear. It's got to do with the hardness of the aftermarket blanks.  Standard blanks are junk soft (why the drop lobes at will) hence they can run the junk soft dizzy gear. 

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. 
 
Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set.  Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it.  Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing. 
 

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. 
 
Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set.  Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it.  Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing. 
 

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. 
 
Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set.  Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it.  Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing. 
 

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

Hi mate, I'd recommend a nice mild street cam for most applications, something about 205 to 215 duration @.050" and 450 to 500 lift. I had a similar part in my Cleveland and it was a hoot, very linear and nice to drive. Something like the 14776 or 14892 from Crow Cams. Descriptions tend to go something like "Great midrange performance, suit mild street engine," with and rpm range about 1500 to 4500 or so.
 
If you're after something to work with stock EFI you're going to be limited. The duration, lobe centres and overlap tend to want to stay the same, you can increase lift a bit but will be limited by the other parameters. The 14221 does indeed looks to fit most of the criteria as its on the same 109 deg lobe sep angle and has very similar overall durations (270 vs 260), with only mildly extended duration @.050 (205 vs 197), whilst lift is improved nicely (470+ vs 439).
 
If you're dead set on retaining everything original the EFI will limit you, consider an EFI box... or even going back to a good aftermarket carby.
 
 - boingk

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. 
 
A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. 
 
The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. 
 
The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little  improvement over a FRESH stock engine. 

Thanks for the advise fellas, that build will be a while away while i cut the rust out of the old girl no point building an engine till i can put it in the darn thing... 

The camtech you have chosen is a nice 218@.050 with .510 lift and a stock 110 lobe sep. Either the c1 or c2 will work just fine.  A good seat cut and some minor bowl works will make it sweet. 
 
I put together a similar combo for a customer in Ipswich but it was slightly bigger at 240@.050 and .510 and solid (tighe 140T). Because of the bigger duration and overlap I was able to give it 11.7:1 Comp and it loves life. It's a 2 barrel deal with ultraflow manifold and 500 Holley. Made 198rwhp on Zok's performance's dyno and a big flat torque line.  
 
Both the c1&c2 have a sharp point where the intake and exhaust swirls meet in the chamber. Rolling that over reduces the chances of detonation.  Good luck with the build. 

Here is a side shot to show the extra clearance. It's about 1/2" less pump snout.




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I modify the sexy ally proflow clevo pulleys and older xf non air con water pumps to give way more fan clearance.

But for a budget option slicing the threads off is no problem. You will find that the shaft material is very hard. Take it slow or cool the shaft with compressed air as you cut it to avoid damaging the pump seal.




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