blu xe

Who cares whats in there TBH as long as it hauls ass and stays in one piece it doesn't matter how or whats in there to make it all work!

Cheers mate. The MSC in the shop ute will be wild enough for me, especially when the blower goes on. I don't think I'd be able to help myself with THOR in there. I really do need my licence.
 
I finished an oil pump today that didn't want to play nice and actually got a few minutes on the bay. That battery explosion area you saw the other day is not that pretty. I took battery tray off and lotsa nasty under there. I'll hook in tomorrow. Might even get paint on it by Friday.

Or just get your bay painted finish THOR and have the quickest shop ute in town! Shotgun first ride!

Why did they only do em as an 8" width. Need more fat.

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

There is definitely gains to be had. My mates 66 mustang could only cop a 245 to 255 on a 17x8 custom offset wheel and the diff cut down to fine tune to the last mm to get them under. The original tubs were also spliced and modified in one section also to try and gain a bit more clearance . When we first done the paint and panel he talked himself out of doing it then regretted it after eventually cracking and then we had to chop up a very shiny and pretty mustang to give it the look he had wanted all along. We split the tub added a 40ish mm strip down the centre and went flat to the rail. It now takes a 285 on a 19" wheel with ease. If you do it neatly with precise cuts so your not trying to fill big ass gaps with welds that end up looking like shit, seal it all up nice and use some common sense about how to retain the strength of the rail it is definitely worth while.   

Dan's a champ. Young grass hopper did his time with us at Bears. He goes good with the gun. Funny you mentioned the beers. He painted my Xe after a pretty big night. Poor bastard was sick as trying not to vomit in his mask and was overall feeling very seedy. I was amazed at how good he got it off the gun and I always joke with him that he should just paint everything drunk cause it came out so well. Ask him bout it  he'll have a good giggle.

Where'd you end up finding the tina? Can't remember the last time I saw one up this way that wasn't raped by rust! Got a feeling that THOR will be without a home for a bit while the Corty gets some love?

Disconnected MAF. Stalled straight away. Pulled the vac line from the reg ran rough straight up. So I guess that rules out those two.

The reason I'm not sharing cam specs is that it was GT's profile that he developed and gave to Dean at Tighe and it's not freely given out. I have to respect that. The other stuff I just want to keep to myself - well just because.
 
Lift is below .610" - well spotted on the no reliefs. Why? because flow suggests we don't need to be up that far. Others have their theories on this and I respect that and have no issue with it. It's just not the way I have chosen to go. Why? Because I believe that any gains past there are lost by the mechanical effort required to get the valve off the seat that far and that can induce reliability issues.
 
As to porting and what works for these heads - well that's an argument I'm not interested in. Everyone has their own ideas on what works and why. Me I'm happy with the way we went. We have the flow and good percentages. It should pull very hard from very low in the rev range and make solid power thru to 6500 where the 45's might just start to kill it.
 
This is all just theory at the moment and part of the process of designing a package for a purpose. Like I said at the start, this is my interpretation of the ultimate aspo x-flow. It will really test a lot of my long held beliefs on what is good and what works on these engines. If I'm wrong you will all see it unfold here on this thread. I have a few things I'm not letting on but apart from that I intend to take you all along on the journey with heaps of photos and videos. Good, bad or ugly you will see it all. I have nothing to hide.
 
It will all be in here and hopefully I will hit my target and if not - I'll leave this planet knowing I had a red hot go and I didn't sit on my hands thinking about it. It is also a huge mark of respect to my late, great mentor GT! Already it has been soo much fun, hanging with my good friend Cam while we discuss tactics, port a little and generally talk engine stuff. Annoying old Joe at the flow bench with what seems like a 100 flow testing sessions and listening to all his old tails and theories.

Dan's a champ. Young grass hopper did his time with us at Bears. He goes good with the gun. Funny you mentioned the beers. He painted my Xe after a pretty big night. Poor bastard was sick as trying not to vomit in his mask and was overall feeling very seedy. I was amazed at how good he got it off the gun and I always joke with him that he should just paint everything drunk cause it came out so well. Ask him bout it  he'll have a good giggle.

Dan's a champ. Young grass hopper did his time with us at Bears. He goes good with the gun. Funny you mentioned the beers. He painted my Xe after a pretty big night. Poor bastard was sick as trying not to vomit in his mask and was overall feeling very seedy. I was amazed at how good he got it off the gun and I always joke with him that he should just paint everything drunk cause it came out so well. Ask him bout it  he'll have a good giggle.

Could be the maf, if you unplug it and it starts to run smoothly it's at fault and needs to be replaced, if it's fuel pressure reg related you can unplug the vacuum line to the regulator and see if the idle changes if it doesn't the reg is at fault, to find out if you have a fuel supply issue you can plug a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel rail (just cable tie it to the one of the wipers for a test) and take it for a drive to see if it drops pressure under load to give you an indication of faulty fuel pump/ filter, alternatively if it's started using more fuel as well take it for a spirited drive and when you pull up you may find one of your cats glowing if one of them is starting to fall apart

Mount garnet mate. That's where the photo was taken. It has rust in all the usual places and a couple of nasty bits. Nothing I can't fix with time. It's no restorer and that's what I was after as it was always going to be a stripped out race car with just the bare essentials. It raced in Townsville back in the day as a dedicated drag car.
 
Yeah THOR will hit the engine dyno in Brissy and after that it will come home a sit waiting for me to get the corty done. I've got a few customer engines to knock over in the new year and then I might get stuck into the corty. Might put a beer and bbq on every Saturday and invite Butcher from JB over and hook into the corty.

Ok time to start a thread on THOR, my idea of the ultimate aspo crossflow. This is the engine that will be powering my new TD Cortina drag car venture.
 
Here is a brief run down on THOR's specs;
 
Triple 45mm webers (soon to be converted to E85)
Tighe - Solid roller cam
Heavily ported C2A head
86da block
Modified EF crank
Ross Forged 200 rod pistons
Spool Forged 200 conrods
 
Anyway I have had this formula in my head for a long time and I collected all the bits and pieces and now its time to assemble the monster that will become THOR.

Couple of options.
1 If you can get hold of a mini sand blaster you can hit them with that to clean them up. Then prime the surface with an epoxy primer.
   EPOXY GOES STRAIGHT OVER BARE METAL NO ETCH PRIMER or anything else.
 
2 Treat them with a metal conditioner. All the main paint companies will have their own versions. Most of them work the same usually a 3:1 mix of conditioner and water. You need to wear gloves as it is acidic. Dip a scotch brite pad into the solution and give the effected areas a good scrub. Then to neutralize the metal conditioner you clean with water. I do it in stages by soaking a rag to remove the bulk then use a few damp ones to get rid of the rest. Working your way down till its dry. Then orby sand it with 80 or even 40 grit to key up the surface then again hit it immediately with epoxy.
 
Another thing to remember about metal conditioners is to make sure it is properly neutralized. Also keep the stuff away from lapped joins where it can creep in between two panels cause you really can't tell if you have indeed neutralized the acid and if you haven't and it stays trapped it'll cause you problems later down the track.

Dragways maybe???

Meh...295x50x15 tucked and 6 banging on a 10" rim.
 
 

Yep and things haven't changed much Ants assessors still don't know their ass from their elbow!

if there massive rub thru's id suggest it might need more panel beating if just a few small ones, find a spray can of primer in the same brand of the material your using.
 
they all have rub thru spot primer. basically you block the job. spray the rub thrus then finish sand to get it ready to paint. if needed re apply on any rub thru's.
 
then light quick skiff with 800 dry just to make it feel smooth before you start painting. it is all designed to stick to each other and formulated to not fry etc.

Proper air tool oil is the go and only a drop any more gets blown out the exhaust. I've had cheap shit air tools last for years being pretty slack with keeping them oiled. So my way of thinking is they can't need to much at all.

WD 40 = Water Dispersant 40th attempt..........
 
INOX for the win.
 
Lanolin spray for plastic squeaks, Lithium grease on door hinges, Graphite powder for locks, door handles etc.