roKWiz

My Feb 93 XF van wiring is bog stock and I only have one relay at the brake booster and 2 down at the battery.
 
btw that red circled plug doesn't want to come apart at freeway speeds like mine did, fortunate to avoid a large backfire saving the dizzy gear and rear muffler.
 
 


 
 

My Feb 93 XF van wiring is bog stock and I only have one relay at the brake booster and 2 down at the battery.
 
btw that red circled plug doesn't want to come apart at freeway speeds like mine did, fortunate to avoid a large backfire saving the dizzy gear and rear muffler.
 
 


 
 

I'm leaning towards neither of them being factory. 
 
unleaded XF has an EST computer and map sensor, likely just something to minorly improve emissions at the time. they were often replaced with the leaded dizzy from XE or XF (special LEADED rotor button needed if keeping the XF cap/leads, otherwise use XE rotor and cap/leads)
 
if you use an XE dizzy in the later XF, remove the ECU from the kick panel, one of My XFs had ignition breakdown with it still fitted (faulty) and when removed the problem was gone. 

ok, so I got the handle sorted, it now opens like a brand new door , but not fixed in the way you suggested.
the metal rod was slightly bent, so I slightly unbent it, and it made no difference, inside handle worked perfectly still, outside handle no go, I tried to make it as straight as i could, and it still didn't help.
So i googled something like 'falcon door mech adjustment' or similar, and a video popped up with a guy showing the same issue, he took the latch mech off and bodged a  screw to be glued right next to the metal pin to make the pin 'bigger', so i gave this a go using knead it, and it worked, its perfect.
The passenger rear door was similar , as in awkward to open, but if you were gentle, it always opened, so i did the same thing on it just to see if it wasn't a fluke figuring that its only Knead it so as strong as it is, you can always knock it off if its a fail so nothing to lose, and it worked, with almost no effort, both rear doors are opening perfectly.
Might be worth a try if anyones having door opening issues.
happy days.

Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.
 
Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  

Been through some changes since this photo.

 

Up to March 1993 at least, all the XF's (and maybe very early XG's) used the same XF bonnet and insulation.
 
Part numbers -
XF-16612-A - Hood
XF-16738-A - Insulator Hood Sound
 
At least some of the XG's (later ones or possibly all) had EDC part numbers -
 
EDC-16612-A - Hood
EDC-16738-A - Insulator Hood Sound
 
I have a New Old Stock XG Insulator, so can 100% confirm they are different to XF.

Deankdx,
I just had my 34 adm rebuilt by a place In Sydney, I took some close up pics of it while I had it off and back on the car, I'll get some pics loaded here later today.
Usual suspects of bad idling, (vacuum leak, excess fuelled jet)  flat spots on acceleration (accel. pump) 6 pumps to start (auto choke replace) also carb overtightening on the manifold causing vacuum leaks at the base.

I also had my reproduction stickers turn up today. 
Dealership sticker and rego sticker
 

 

Pre crossflow use the same cam bearings as xflow, its an extra hole for the pre xflow to oil the rockers as they have an extra oil gallery to supply oil to the head and rocker shaft, that gallery gets supplied from the top of the cam journals, whereas xflow use the lifters and pushrods to supply the rockers with oil, its no real biggie just interchangeable bearings
 
 

There's some bloody big mountains around here, just ask my poor old trucks.

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd suggest buying an original panel from the states and call the thing a Yankee Tudor

The problem is when you go to the rego mob, they only believe what the computer tells them. No numbers = Cant be regoed. Local cop shop tells you to go to State rego vehicle inspection centre, they say "car must be driven in, and driven out" No trailers. 
 
 

Or grandpa's axe... It's had 4 handles and 3 heads, but it's still the same axe.... "They don't make em like they used to"

But seriously, what's in a number anyway? The authorities don't really care as long as their criteria is met, so whatever it takes to get the old girl rolling again, I say do it. These cars were made to last a dozen or so years so the manufacturer's weren't too concerned about long-term identification.

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Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons.

Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered?

See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

A little bit like my Louisville. I think there are a couple of Ford bits still left on it.
 
English magazine I used to buy was "Classic Yacht" where this subject continually haunts their letters pages.
As Mr Polsons above stated...........A well known turn of the last century racing yacht "Rona" had all its planking replaced, ribs and stringers recut, the copper sheathing was all new, the decks had to be replaced and the doghouse was reconstructed out of remaining pieces from the original. The masts, rigging and sails were all new but the keel and mast step were totally saved with all its serial numbers etched into the casting of the lead ballast. 
So it was classified as an original 1899 yacht with Lloyds of London backing its authenticity.

Very philosophical question in a way, made me think of the Ship of Theseus, where a ship is repaired over and over again over time until every part has been replaced, is it still the original or now considered a replacement?

Personally with a car I'd base it on the main middle section, if that's original then you're just doing repairs to the front & back of it.

Hi everyone 
 
just posting the xf wiring diagrams on here for anyone to have a look at if theyre trying to find wiring faults or using a ea-el ecu and engine bay harness to convert to fuel injection or to update the ecu and remove airflow meter.
 
XF EFI WIRING
 
XF ENGINE BAY WIRING
 
XF POWER WINDOWS & DOOR LOCKS
 
XF CIGAR & COURTESY WIRING
 
XF REAR WINDOW WASHER & WIPER WAGON
 
XF REAR LAMP
 
XF POWER SEATS
 
XF POWER MIRROR
 
XF INTERMITTENT WINDSHIELD WIPERS
 
XF ILLUMINATION ENTRY
 
XF HAZARD FLASHER
 
XF AIRCON
 
Hope this helps everyone
 
thanks
 
 

XE  tail lights have always been the preferred, hence the shortage of XD. When the Taiwan replacement parts started to flood the market with the likes of SSS most XD were becoming XE and F’s. A V8 later looking Car. You could get after marked XD but demand not there hence there demise.
 
Dale

Reasons why you'd do this:
- Cheap and easy to get (roughly
$110 from Ripco trade)
- Extra clearance to headers
- Easier, lighter to fit/remove
- Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty.
 
Downsides:
- You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new.
- You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course)
- Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed.
- Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways).
- You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8.
 
Anyway....
 
Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8")
 

 
Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one.
 

 
Front view
 

 
Roughed out with the hackasaurus
(Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face).

 
Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file:
 

 
Top view:
 
You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all.
 
Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm).
 
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haha - with limited stocks avaialble - we are forced to make do with what we got...

How things have changed, back in the 70s and 80's we were all trying to update and modernize our cars now we're going the opposite way in looks.

How things have changed, back in the 70s and 80's we were all trying to update and modernize our cars now we're going the opposite way in looks.

Well, last Saturday was an epic day and has given me and my mate confidence and inspiration to push on harder than ever with the restoration of Granddad's old XC... 
 
After liberally lubricating each cylinder and leaving it for a week, we gently turned her over by hand. 
 
There were NO tight spots, weird sounds or unwanted friction at all and she turned beautifully... 
 
Battery was connected and carby was primed and after about 6 attempts, she briefly coughed and died... 
 
A few more attempts were made until, incredibly, the super fuel that was still in her tank (no, it HASN'T gone off at all) made it to the fuel pump and she ran long enough for me to get this very quick video. 
 
Pretty much a testament to the strength and engineering of the mighty crossflow engine... 
 
 

here's the thread i mentioned, 

if you wouldn't mind having a read, and seeing if anything needs a photo, that would be great.