XES

Push lok is pretty good too. Just after a few years of driving it goes hard. Thats 5/8 barbs? Looks the goods too. Just be carful using push lok and hose clamps tho. The way they are designed to work is for thefor the barbs to bite through to the fabric braid. You dont actaully meed clamps and they can cause the barbs to bite too far into the hose and cause a weak spot and leaks.

Yeah mark use an fittings with either crimped ends or the reusable screw on type mate. That hose is rayed for decent pressure but the ear clamps will be the weak point.

This is my cooler and fittings, if I end up using it, I will be running hose clamps over the push lock hose ends for peace of mind.

Still building it up now, but if it doesn't work, I'm going down this path:
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Demon-Carburetion-625-cfm-Street-Demon-Carburetor-DEM1902-/281023394001?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416e4cb0d1
 
Plenty of rave reviews and a full-circle back to the ThermoQuad style

Yeah the one you said, 3/8 to 10mm

Wasn't a bad job to do, my dear old dad gave me a hand and made it easier, just wheeled out the old diff and wheeled the new one in. Wow the 3:23 gears feel like it has given it extra ponies for sure. They must just suit the 5 speed better. Only problem was that the studs were about 10mm too long for my mags to bolt on tight, had to use some s pack type open ended nuts. Dunno if I should turn down the end of the studs to make them shorter or just get deeper nuts. Other than that it was a simple 2.5 hr job, with a couple of beers in between of course

still need to do mine althow you need a engine to push diff gears LOL

Ended up getting one from the local abs store, they said the mf part number wasn't on their computer but I told them the size that I needed and it was in stock, got one for my sedan and one for my ute conversion later in the year. Seems to be a good fit in the diff end and hopefully on the weekend I can get it in the car. Thanks again for the help buddy.

No worries.  If you get it from their most of enzeds brake stuff is from brakequip.  The part number is BQ49
 
http://www.brakequip.com/products/automotive-fittings/male-to-female-thread-adapters

Thanks a lot for the help mate, really appreciate it

From what I've found out off the ends on the hoses you shouldn't need an adapter in an xf as they are both 10x1 with a bubble flare. It should screw sraight up. Xd and xe have the 3/8X24 imperial thread. Have a look at the end thats is on the car. It shoyld be the same as the one that you have of the ed.

So the end with the inverted seat screws onto the body of the car and the male end screws into tbe hose? I think what he's given you is a 10x1 female to 3/8x24male afaptor if its loose in the threads on the ed hose. I'll have to check bit I'm pretty sure that both xf and ed have 10x1 threads. Maybe just different seats. I've got a brake hose catalog at work I can look in after I finish lunch if you want.

I had 650 double pumper one of these on my stock 302 and found it was a bit big. I thought it was a pretty go carby though. Easy to switch jets like you said. I ended up switching to a 600 with vac secondaries and it goes really good now. I'm currently building a 351 and ill probably try this carby on it. Loved the induction noise when those bit secondaries open up on a speadbore carb. Especially with mechanical secondaries.

And another advantage is that even if you thought you had absolutely no cuts on your hands, you'll soon find out that you do, big times.

I know exactly what you mean XC, I should know better as my current Holley (bought second hand) is a mongrel made up of various bits, but the one I've just bought is professionally hot run-tested and I suspect that it's a clearance from Hume Performance's old stock.

Being a spread-bore, it has to be better in some way.

I'll post some results after I've fitted it up and driven a tank worth of fuel through it.
 
UPDATE: After pulling it down, it needs a kit. Bowls were corroded, one jet had to be removed with an easy-out, and secondary diapragm was shredded. Everything else seems ok, throttle shafts have minimal play. No choke fitted.
 
Jets were 60/64, Power valves were 5.5/6.5. I found it weird to have that size in the primaries and must have been fitted by someone. As far as i know, ALL Holleys come with 6.5s
 
Rebuild kits are pricey at $89, so I just got all the gaskets I needed individually, ended up being less than $40 with a diapragm. I'd suggest going this way if you're doing up a carby, as they give you shitloads of stuff in the kit that you dont need.
 
It takes funny fittings (9/16x24) so i made some up at work by sweating some 5/16 copper tube into some brass inserts. Looks a bit ghetto but will work.

These -
 

 
and -
 

Ok so just post a vid of what you like really...For me nothing betters the Pro Stock engines.
 
On the dyno...

 

 
Outside the car...
 

 
Inside the car...
 

 
OK Shane is a bit excited but I would be worse
 
What do others like then?

You wont hear the exhaust over the awesone induction noise that will be coming from those webbers any way

You wont hear the exhaust over the awesone induction noise that will be coming from those webbers any way

their gear isn't shit, i'm just abusive. ask my johnson. poor fucker cops a floggin.

All sorted today after spending lots of time and headaches, changing fuel rails, mucking around with heaps of different pumps, the car started and ran, thank god! All due to a dodgy fuel regulator and looks like my wiring is all good! Not bad for a 17 year old with no real electrical experience to wire up a fuel injected AU motor into a XC Falcon

Ohhhhhhh doe's mine need long rods then Ando?  I might rev mine a bit
 
P.S Yes laughed when I seen the "experimental do not exceed 7200RPM" changing to that pan gasket the other day.  

Update on this, I got a EA falcon bell and it was going to end up to deep and way to many mods to fit. I found a Quicktime bell form the states made for a BA-BF-FG to c4 and it was advertised as the same depth as the bell i have but when it came it is about 3mm deeper then the c4 6cyl bell but it fits good
 
Now I'll use the windsor flexplate with some arp insert washers on the holes to be able to use the M10 bolts, use me original xflow/windsor torque convertor and it all doesn't push the engine to far forward at all I'm actually using the std cortina engine mounts bolted to the FG block and i have to fill and redrill one hole. And to top it off it was $700 delivered to my door form the us with .85 exchange rate!! ( a local dellow is $800 and 20mm deeper then the old crossflow bellhousing)
 
I ended up just cutting out the firewall around where the starter motor mounts because it mounts on the left side of the engine now the cortina firewall wont fit at all ill bow it all in after the engine is finial fitted.
 
Next step is to finish the engine mounts off and start on the sump then it will be all fitted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuing on from my thread on the other forum. I Have recently sold off my crossflow and have decided to try a different route. I'm going to try and get some reasonable times out of my car now being powered by a DOHC FG falcon motor. The plan is to 1st get it in the car then get is running (not that hard when you say it like that) I'll be using my throttle body setup of my old motor and try and use my custom pipes as well. Also looking at my options at the moment as the ecu to control the cams. the rest of the car will be the same as before with the xflow, well thats the plan any way's!!!
 
1st picture to start off while I'm waiting for the bellhousing, engine came fully complete i have striped it down ready for install.