judgetread

check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed

 
The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em.
The top have a bracket  around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

I thought I'd put up a post about this in case anyone else has done similar dash/trans conversions and is looking to get their speedo working again.
 
After 2 years of driving the XF with no speedometer after the TH400 gear box installation I decided it was probably a good idea to get it sorted out.
I spoke to a company in Heidelberg who were very unwilling to give any information and told me that I was going to have to leave the car with them for at least 2 days with no specified cost so I basically thought these guys can get fucked and then left (Last time i left the car with someone to get the diff worked on I got it back as a two speed, hence the TH400 change over leaving me without a speedometer).
 
I did some research and ended up buying a Dakota Digital SGI5 -E to change the sine wave from the gear box's VR type sensor to match the square wave of the XF dash, once set up the calibration was very easy just using my GPS and adjusting the units PPM to suit. The unit was small enough to tuck in underneath the XF's cassette holder compartment out of site, The dash now operates like nothing was ever changed and I no longer have to carry a GPS at all times.
 
The unit cost $200 from Hotrod Hardware but is well worth it in my opinion as it both modifies and re calibrates the signal to suit your application.
 
 
A big thanks to Antonio and Michael at Autobarn Epping for helping me out with the technical bits.

I bent the posts ever so slightly to tighten the tension a tad in the springs and put a stop in the plate to restrict the total advance,, used to run 16-18 @ idle advancing to total 32 degrees,, it absolutely screamed. When hot it would crank a little slower for about one second and then fire like an angry beast.

The tool arrived today, now i can finish the rear brakes
 
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I was eyeing off a kit that has that catch can included 
 
but it will not work with where im gonna put the power steering and turbo 
and for 250$ i could make one that fits better for what im doing , i have it on the passenger side now next to the radiator

Managed to finalise the crank trigger mount. Recessed the adjustable timing pointer. Had to modify the end of the vac pump mandrel because space at the front of the car is a premium. Came up alright
 

 

My crossy will never wear them out lol

My MSD curve is actually a double curve, it kicks up at about 1500, dips back down at around 3000, then ramps up again to 4500 to a soft limit at 5500. I say that just because your engine will want whatever curve it wants.

Engine conversion is still a way off so no extractors in the way just yet lol.

I bought a xd manual box from a wreckers in redcliffe few months back.. $150 i think it was..
 
All bolted up fine ... easy as to change over, unless you have extractors where they shouldnt be and had to pull the spline from the coloumn down but thats because it was powersteer before.

Ok so anyone who knows me would know that I can't settle for anything without fucking with it so I tried a few different approaches to get it dialled in:
 
Leanest jet (74) with 52/60 rod still had the consumption up around 17l/100, and lacked a little something under power. Then to improve economy, I went to the leanest rod (56/64) had it running ok but obviously more lacking power. Cruise was pretty fine, only had a little surge now and then.
 
So I figured that it really needs the lean step of the second-leanest rod but the rich step of the second richest one, along with the leanest jet.
 
Enter my trusty Ozito "dremel" tool with sanding pad attachment. It was one of those nights that I had the kids asleep at home so I had plenty of time to kill. Using my fingers like a lathe, I rotated the rod against the wheel taking minute amounts off the end, measuring regularly with some verniers, getting down to 0.045" at the tip (down from 0.054") also introducing a gentle taper down to it from where the lean step started much like a rod on a bike carby.
 
.... And finally some success!
 
On the primaries, power is smooth and effortless, just as it originally was with the factory (rich) setup but even better. It cruises beautifully and it transitions perfectly from cruise to power. Before you could feel the rich step coming in, much like a power valve.
 
Secondaries needed some richening due to the smaller engine capacity than the carby was designed for, (350 cubes) starting with the standard 80s, moving up to 82s, then jumping right up to a drilled 89 (I had no drills in between that and 82). It pulls quite well from low rpm foot to the floor, but it's best not to nail it before 3000. The air door preload is now set at the factory 1 turn after contact. Initially, with the smaller jets it needed another 1.5 turns to get the bog out if it.
 
The accelerator pump is a whole new chapter that I'll go on about some other time.
 
So in summary, it's a brilliant design of a carby with plenty of potential. The tune of it however hasn't had much homework done by the manufacturer to get the most out of it. The fact that I had to buy a tuneup kit and then modify the rods even further to get where I needed to be shows that their approach is a bit crude and never has the right combination of tuning parameters to take advantage of the efforts they made to design the carby in the first place.
 
So to recap, my Holley 4011 performed well but drank way too much. I was often getting towards 20l/100km. When I first bolted on the Street Demon, I was immediately impressed with the performance but not with the economy. It showed little to no improvement over the old clunker I just pulled off and took a lot of trial and error to get it to where it is now. I'm hovering around 15l/100km with some runs dipping into high 14s. This translates to about 400km to a tank, but being a wagon it's hard to be accurate with such a wide and flat tank. It's very sensitive to what slope you have the car on so you can think you've filled it but it still has a few more litres left in it after the gun has clicked off.

Il treat this as a before pic...
 

Here is a rare 74da at the foundry

yeh they should all fit without issues. Mines a late model roller block with carb and waterpump from early style.

So what I did was buy timing cover, fuel pump eccentric, timing chain, water pump and fuel pump all to suit the older Windsor.

few things to keep in mind..
 
The roller may not have a fuel pump cam installed, and even may not have the slot in the timing cover for the mech fuel pump.
Depending on the setup, water pump rotation could be a issue so make sure you get the all sorted too..
 
Unless its a retro fit roller

3M panel bonding adhesive

3M panel bonding adhesive

Ok I promised a proper review so here goes:
 
It's been nearly 2 weeks since the install, and I've pretty much worked out its good and bad points.
 
• it's unbeatable bang-for-buck. I landed it here for a shade under $350 AUD. They sell locally (new, not refurbished like mine) starting at $550.
 
• the low end torque is amazing. I thought my annular Holleys were good but this is like fuel injection (no exaggeration). Driving around town, there's absolutely no need to hit the secondaries, the performance is enough at 1/3 throttle.
 
• although they say that refurbs are returned units that are checked and cleaned, mine showed no signs of previous installation (no marks around the stud holes).
 
• installation was piss-easy with exception to some issues that are peculiar to my setup, ie non-standard throttle cable and spread bore adaptor (outlined above in previous post). It fired up and idled by itself with very minor tweaks, just like they said it would.
 
• the secondaries open with a glorious howl just like on an Edelbrock or Quadrajet, and traction is now an issue that wasn't there before
 
• has a single fuel inlet so no dicking around with t-pieces and clamps, custom fuel bars, etc.
 
• Its float bowls are sealed so no longer has that old car aura of fuel smell after you park it. Also the composite body keeps temps down so much less or no percolation from heat soak.
 
• comes with lots of bits to cater for different setups: 3/8", 5/16" and SAE flare fuel fittings, 4x mount studs and nuts, 2 different ball ends or a clevis pin for the throttle cable, air cleaner stud, metal intermediate plate and 2 gaskets... Oh and 2 go-fast stickers
 
Ok now for the few issues that I've had:
 
• the primary throttle is a bit tight and hangs up a tad, but only when the engine's running. I suspect it's an alignment issue that will probably go away as it all beds in. I fitted an extra return spring that's made the accelerator a bit heavy but it works fine.
 
• The secondary air flap was catching on the housing, making it a bit clunky in operation. I noticed the screws that hold it to the shaft were a bit off from the holes, so I loosened them and tweaked the flap to open and close without catching. I suspect this is a new carby that failed QC due to these issues but I really don't mind, it's not an issue for me.
 
• the linkages are all held on with impossibly small circlips. They are so small that you can't feel them on your fingers when removing/replacing. Very scary if you lose one and wonder if it fell down the carby, etc. I made the mistake of changing the pump stroke in the dark on the side of the road and had all sorts of trouble putting it back on. I plan on removing them all and installing wire pin clips that you can at least change without tweezers. Changing rods requires removing the choke linkage right over the top of the carby with one of these clips needing removal. Again, scary.
 
• Changing jets (primary or secondary) involves stripping the carby apart completely. Not so bad if only your primaries need tweaking as there is enough of a selection of rods to tune them without needing to swap jets. Also primary jets are specific to this carby only. Secondaries are standard Holley jets.
 
• if a carby is sold ready to run out of the box, you can guarantee that it's going to be rich, which this one is. Stock rods are 60/52, jets are 78. Rods and jets are in increments of 0.002". On reading other reviews, I think I might go either 2 sizes leaner (bigger) in rods to 64/56, or one rod size up (62/54) and one jet down (76). Rods are about $10US a pair, jets $5.
 
• the secondaries had a pretty bad bog when I first drove it. A 1/2" spanner and a flat screwy is used to adjust the tension in the spring, and you go 1/4 of a turn each time to increase the opening tension. They reckon don't go more than 1 turn tighter than factory but I went 1-1/2 and it's mostly gone now. Even at that, the secondaries still feel a bit lean for my engine, might need a bigger jet.
 
• fuel consumption is pretty shit so far, which goes with being way rich. I also do a lot of short, cold runs which knocks the economy around.
 
Anyway I'll be doing more long country runs in the near future and after I tune the primaries I'll update any progress made.
 
 
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Bitches
 

 
Oh 4011 Holley... You've served me well but sadly now it's time to be put out to pasture.
 

 
You can see the unusual goggle-shaped secondaries:
 

 
Square vs spreadbore gasket
 

 

 
As you can see, the siamesed secondary valve, while very cool, can be a bit of a headache when trying to match the carby to a spread/square adaptor. The centre divider has an abrupt face that's smack in the middle of the flow so needs to be contoured with a die grinder to transition smoothly to the spreadbore manifold:
 

 
Smoothed and knife-edged:
 

 

 
A bit hard to see but looking straight down the open throttle into the plenum there's the contoured divider. If anyone is thinking of getting this carby, this is the sort of thing you might have to do to get it right on a split manifold, square or spread bore. Open plenums are no dramas.
 

They will bolt up fine, but as NZXD said, gt40p heads and almost all aftermarket heads have the spark plug angle changed and number 3 plug lead will catch fire Dont ask how I know lol
 
Either multi angle boots or 90 degree plug leads will fix that. Personally I had the number 3 pipe moved a little so clearance would be a problem.

I no reason a 28 spline in a LSD won't take what you are about to give it. I mean unless you plan on drag racing it in a car that "hooks" 28's will be fine IMO.
 
But if you want...Id suggest going to a 31 spline as they cost the same and there stronger. Axles can be had thru Rocket VPW and such easy enough though.

Id always go roller, too many benefits not to do it.
 
less hp to turn, roller cam dont wear out as quick. Use same lifters on multiple cams. and many many more

Id always go roller, too many benefits not to do it.
 
less hp to turn, roller cam dont wear out as quick. Use same lifters on multiple cams. and many many more

Id always go roller, too many benefits not to do it.
 
less hp to turn, roller cam dont wear out as quick. Use same lifters on multiple cams. and many many more