BBS XE

Thanks BBS for the clarification. Yeah I have been reading around about modifying the internals but the details are very vague with no specifics. Just not sure I want to go buying a good/new alternator that I have to pull apart (I dont have a bearing puller so more expense on top)to see if the mod works.
 
Sly you wouldnt happen to have a part number for the alternator? Whats the advantage with putting the bigger diameter pulley on?

BXF1250A is listed in the Bosch catalag as 60A, I put one in mine a while ago and can confirm that it is 60A (better than the 45A that was in it lol). I've read on here that the internals of a VN to VR 85A alternator can be fitted into the crossflow case with a little modification. 

I have a very old Scorpion gun that I get great results from.  It is a direct Star copy.  Star guns are a good budget option for two pack - not sure on acrylic as I don't spray it. 
 
If there is one thing I have found it is that you need to give any new gun a really good clean before use.  also ditch the little filter they all seem to come with as they restrict paint flow leading to poor results.  Use paper filters instead to filter the paint on entry.
 
It really doesn't matter which gun you get if you don't know how to set them up properly to get a good fan.  I just bought one from Supercrap for $45 and I could not get it to spray properly until I turned the outer cap the wrong way around.  clearly someone stamped the 1.4 the wrong way around.  prior to that the fan was just rubbish.
 
Anesta Iwata are the best gun around in my opinion.  Nice and light - great action and they just lay it on like glass.  Not cheap but a really great product.  I'm working my way up to buying one. 
 
Really is comes down to good prep work - getting the fan right and laying it on nice.  If all else fails - jam the shit on there with 4 good coats and wet sand a buff the fek out of it.

Check the fusible link.

Make sure there's no shorts in your speaker wiring, the amp inside them turns off if there's anything wrong.

Good advice there BBS, put that one about magnatec in the old memory bank. Mine blows a puff for a couple of seconds on hot startup but once underway, she's clean as a whistle. Especially so when doing the headlight test at night: nail it away from the car behind and look for a cloud in front of their headlights... Nothing!

I don't touch Magnatec after opening up an engine that had been run with it for years, sludgy coating on everything, blocked up lifters. I'd agree with if it's smoking on start up only it would be stem seals, if it was rings it'd be either all the time or when you nail the throttle in my experience. 

I don't touch Magnatec after opening up an engine that had been run with it for years, sludgy coating on everything, blocked up lifters. I'd agree with if it's smoking on start up only it would be stem seals, if it was rings it'd be either all the time or when you nail the throttle in my experience. 

I'd say $3k would only cover it if you do most if not all of it yourself, farming out any machine work you can't do at home. 650dp would drown it wouldn't it?

I had a cheap one in the KH Laser crapmobile I had on my Ps, I repainted the steel part of it cause it was rusty when I took it out the box. (horn button came with boss kit hehe)

+1 On Sunbury Brakes kits.
Got this one when I converted to manual:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-Clutch-Kit-xe-xf-ea-Heavy-Duty-4-5-SPD-/360121081619?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53d8e39f13&_uhb=1
 
Good quality, and nicely priced.

Yeah LOL I think it's called: You Breaka My Car (or bike), I Breaka Your Face Disease 
 
I put some dynagrip on the back of the pads today so I'll see what happens. Fuel line was rattling around on the passenger side too cause the grommet had fell out, maybe that's what it was!

Haha, nah I don't like other people touching her, I'm getting the aircon gassed soon as well. I went through it the other day and got the wiring sorted out (had all been disconnected) so the clutch will kick in with the low pressure switch bypassed. Shop would've sorted it for no charge probably but I just didn't want them pulling trims off and risk damaging anything.
 
I'd say you're probably right about the spacer plates making the noise, I think I can remember them being a loose fit over the pad when I put them in a few months back. If I get a chance tommorow I'll have a look. Cheers.

jack it up check the bearings first, also make sure the little metal spacer plates are behind the pads, or if they have been glued back to the piston in the caliper,as a floating pad will give you the same noise

I rang the guy from Knox yesterday and he said he is all good and i can pick some up tomorrow. Recon thats the way ill go at this stage cause its seems easy to get there from our lodgings!
 
Thanks everyone for your input! Ill let you know how they go when i fit them up!

Just shit stirring.......I know what I meant.    

Great work, I've always been told rough finish on inlet side to promote swirl and smooth/polished on exhaust and combustion chamber to prevent carbon build up.

Great work, I've always been told rough finish on inlet side to promote swirl and smooth/polished on exhaust and combustion chamber to prevent carbon build up.

secondhand extractors

rare spares cable is a fdrive cable, they are the 1 and only manufacturer in australia, you can buy them from any local parts store
 
fdrive are the original manufacturer for ford

Top ring above thread tells rich lean condition and detonation,earth strap tells burn condition.Plugs can only be read correctly after rpm with a all but instant shut off.Other than that if there black or clean does it for non performance shit useally

I'm using a 6 cyl cluster with my v8. There's a trimpot down the side of the tacho that you adjust the rpm with. Even without calibration gear you can get it fairly close.
 
To get you in the ballpark, set your fast idle up to show 2000 rpm on the 6 cyl setting. Adjust the trimpot so at this engine rpm the tacho now shows 1500. Congrats, you now have a V8 tacho.

How you going to get out the car?

How you going to get out the car?

The light green vacuum hose should not have vacuum on it when the heater is on.
It will have vacuum when the heater is off, this will close the heater tap to stop hot water getting to the heater core.
On an XF Ghia, ZL or FE, the vacuum is controled by a solenoid valve that switches the vacuum to the heater tap (light green) vacuum hose.
The solenoid is near the relays to the left of the steering column, it should click when the temperatere control lever is coming to the full blue section, not the blended red/blue, the control lever also operates the blend door and thermostat via an electric motor.
On a GL,S or Fairmont it is not the same the vacuum is controled by the temperature control directly, and the blend door and thermostat are control via a cable from the temp control.