gregaust

Ok, end up taking the crank to the machinist said those holes were strange but said wont be an issue. Crank getting a grind and balancing done.
Just glad there's no need for a replacement.

Then it's time for a stroker crank  

Then it's time for a stroker crank  

Then it's time for a stroker crank  

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 
 
Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.
Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35
 
Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 
 
Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.
Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35
 
Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

Up to XP i think was the auto + manual tunnels .  XR is same as all other Falcons .   A T400 fits right in XR as does a C6

yes i have had that problem a few times with after market mounts,just grind them back a bit to give a little clearance,i also got 1 mount that was made upsidedown yeah it still bolted on but looks a bit like the first picture you have,something dont look right there.

Been through some changes since this photo.

 

I have been busy with a new direction on the interior still star wars themed but more Millennium Falcon.
cheers Scott

Thanks guys, 2.92 now installed i will see how it goes
cheers

sway bar is no where near the pitman arm, i'd be dubious if they know what they are on about, i also don't think the 4.0 is any different clearance wise to a clevo, so another sounding like rubbish response. 
 
easy way to tell would be to see if the part number is same for XG and XA XB XC XD XE V8 and an XF 6cyl with power steering, i'm betting they are all the same and only the manual one is different
 

Back to the ebay packages... this is the reply i got back from the seller i listed above for anyone interested.
 
 
Clint. All except the idler arm are Wasp units.
Idler is a Roadsafe one as Wasp do not do them in the standard form.
Ours are all good units. Nothing cheap and chinese about these.
I have sold them for over 30 years ..
Cheers
 
Rob Mills
Ringwood Auto Parts
PO Box 230
Hurstbridge
Victoria 3099
Australia
 
Phone 03 9714 8196
0408 104894
Fax 03 8692 6942

its the same caliper as an XE XF fairmont ghia
ZK or ZL fairlane would be the best to search for probably or FD FE LTD
 
those bolt hex's if you turn them and they don't turn the bush in the caliper mount they should come out. (grab with vice grips and twist and pull is best with heaps of spray where they go into the slide) 

asshole of things, i've cut them off in the past(when i had spares)
 
here's what they look like removed from the caliper bracket and fitted back into the slides 

Definitely no worth the money you pay.

Be sure to get the correct fittings for the case , they are a straight NPS thread , NOT NPT

Stay well away from TCI , They are junk . I've had to repair 4 TCI C6's that guys here have bought. 
Better to have yours built , then you know what you have 
 
Their valvebodies are rubbish, many have a 2-3 flare as a standard feature  

Be sure to get the correct fittings for the case , they are a straight NPS thread , NOT NPT

Unfortunately for you you'll have to source 221 specific flex plate, 221 (and 188) have the smaller pcd for the crank bolts like an earlier six cylinder but the step down to the crank flange is deeper like a later 6 cylinder, if you are lucky (or are having a converter made) you might be able to use the b/w flex plate with the c4 converter

My 2 cents - if it works, it works.
 
BTR's can be finicky things, when not maintained.
I've directly experienced ones playing up under 200,000km, and others still be working fine at over 600,000km
 
If it were mine, I'd probably remove the valve-body to check the B1 and B2 band clearances and re-shim if needed.
Then if within spec, I'd re-assemble, change the fluid, and re-install the trans.
 
If a BTR's B1 band can't grip the drum to stop it spinning when commanded, the trans will lose 2nd and 4th gear.
 
In my experience, second hand BTR's almost always have faults, despite what any seller says.
I regard them, as rebuildable cores.

Products like Helicoil, or Recoil will fix it.  You need to rethread (tap) the hole, and install a "coil" with the head bolt thread on the inner surface. Looks like a small spring. 

That should work fine 

The issue with swapping BTR , up to AU the solenoids earth through the case . BA on the wiring harness is different and all gearbox earths return to ECU 
 
Just something to be aware of when you are setting up which computer to use . Harnesses can be swapped although there can be differences where the plug fits the main case 

Ok I got it soughted and the finish line is not far away.

Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

You can run caltracs with a super pro or Nolathane front bush works ok too.