user272

Does the side marker flash as well? If there isn't enough load on a flasher can it will blink too fast, easy way to test if it's a light or the flasher is to turn the hazards on, if they blink normally it usually means you have a bulb out or a bad earth

this post is a couple of years old, not sure you'll get a reply. 
 
@user272

Thanks heaps for the replies guys.
This proved to be far to fiddly for me so after hours of trying to make it work, a lot of swearing and the death of an innocent iphone who was just in the wrong place at the wrong time I decided to call upon a lock smithing wizard.
This guy was a fucking genius, he said its an anti theft feature so the car cant be started without the key and then got out some dentist tools to click it back into place.
At first he said the column may need to come out but after a couple of tries he fixed it while in position.
The car still needs to go to Ford about the intermittent starting issue but at least now I wont be getting it towed there.
 
No more tools on this car, sticking with the XF from now on...
Thanks again guys.

Wait, so my dads trick of wrapping a blown fuse in foil and reinstalling it is no good..?
 
Good video, 2 things worth spending extra cash on for quality are fuses and electrical meters, I've seen a lot of very cheap meters on sites and in shops and it blows me away that anyone would actually rely on them.

Thanks for the heads up!
But I'm not surprised... Not even a little bit... Now i want to test my fuses. 
This can and should be applied to anything you purchase, especially from ebay and ESPECIALLY if it looks like its from china. It's easier to assume that what your buying has been manufactured to the poorest standard they can get away with, and the advertising is a great big lie. Then you gotta ask yourself "What are the consequences if what i purchase is the worst case scenario" And if the consequences are acceptable. You can continue with the purchase.
I could go on but i wont. Suffice to say, always be skeptical. I've even caught Jaycar peddling the same low quality Chinese garbage. (Disclaimer: Not everything from china is garbage. But it's all definitely high risk) 

I like his Milliohm meter. The ones I use are cumbersome devices and connecting them to the target is usually frustrating due to having 4 contact points. His one has integrated each contact into 1/2 of the alligator clip. 

I've always gone to great lengths to obtain and use only OEM/name brand replacement fuses.
(much to the amusement of others)
 
Recently, I stumbled across a youtube clip, which clearly illustrates the reasons why.
NEVER use cheap fuses...
 
Some aftermarket offerings are so 'out of spec', that their TRUE rating is closer to x5 times higher.
ie - marked as 10amp, but ACTUALLY rated at 40amps
 
For those who value their vehicles, I'd strongly suggest to watch -
 
 

I know what you mean mate I've got Sony Xploud stereos in most of my cars with various brand speakers and they all sound great but the displays do annoy you.  

Sony also return to demo mode after power loss.
Ive considered replacing my head unit in the XF purely because of this haha. Every time I look at it it’s just bragging about all the things it can do and I’m just thinking “Fuck off Sony, I already bought you!”

Sony also return to demo mode after power loss.
Ive considered replacing my head unit in the XF purely because of this haha. Every time I look at it it’s just bragging about all the things it can do and I’m just thinking “Fuck off Sony, I already bought you!”

Sony also return to demo mode after power loss.
Ive considered replacing my head unit in the XF purely because of this haha. Every time I look at it it’s just bragging about all the things it can do and I’m just thinking “Fuck off Sony, I already bought you!”

Sony also return to demo mode after power loss.
Ive considered replacing my head unit in the XF purely because of this haha. Every time I look at it it’s just bragging about all the things it can do and I’m just thinking “Fuck off Sony, I already bought you!”

glue the face back on, and enjoy. 
who'd steal an old deck these days?
 
 
that current deck is what's in My van at the moment, got the model number? ah, just remembered how i mounted it, too hard to remove.
 
the JVC i have in My gemini wagon now came with the XG bought and it was too damn confusing, so took it out.. when i finally googled and found on youtube how to use it, i like it better. but.. i'll have to youtube how to use it again because it's been a month since i last used it. that said, the pioneer did back to the demo mode due to almost flat battery and i had to youtube that also (SO DAMN ANNOYING, demo mode needs a SWITCH)
the JVC has multiple colours of backlight and display text ) 

I'm willing to try anything at this stage

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2 sticks of dynamite, and close all the windows. Should get all 4 doors off at once. 

could be ign switch even. try it a heap of times, if it comes good, its likely the switch.
 

AU motors are probably the most reliable of the Ford 4.0 SOHC. By then Ford went with a multi layer steel head gasket which solved the head gasket issue.

You can install an AU gasket into the older 4.0

Did you have the head machined? If not it was almost always going to blow again.

DOHC 4.0 (Barra) swaps are fairly simple and straightforward into the older X series.
Whether it would need a mod plate seems to vary greatly depending on who you ask and what state you're from.
Probably the best way to get a more powerful motor.

Xflow swap would never be legal due to emmisions, even if you went injected. Could also have clearance issues with the XH steering setup.

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Thing is to not get caught up in the whole brake pad sales talk. You really need to think about your application, how your going to use 'your' car.
 
As an extreme example - no point putting a pad designed for circuit racing on a drag car. Generally circuit racing pads need to come up to temperature to work. The drag car needs a pad that's going to bite straight away and only do one big stop. They simply don't have the time to come up to temp. Sure at the end of the stop they will be worked, but they get plenty of time to cool off and be ready for the next run.
 
Generally a slightly upgraded stock style pad is good for most people, unless you do multi lap circuit racing type events. Of course you need to consider the weight of the car and the whole braking package. It's very easy to get caught up in it all and go for exotic materials used on late model high performance cars, but really you'd need a pretty serious engine and car and application to warrant them.

500HP and a cruiser...!!  I'd go the beefed up C4.
 
500HP and hillclimbs...!! I'd go the top loader, with new linkages.
 
Sorry, thats of no help at all.

dimples for the win.  Works on Miranda Kerr and she's enough to have me stop what I'm doing.

I'm running slotted T2 DBA rotors on both my XF ute and FG G6E. Mostly for the looks really.
 
I think DBA and the "kangaroo paw" ventilation is a step above standard though, and the rotors on the G6E are definitely better than the factory ones.
 
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so today i attacked the control arm bolts. I swear if i ever have to do them again, or pull the sway bar out again, I'm going to pay someone to do it  
 
it looks dangerous, but i promise I've done this before  
In case you weren't aware, Escorts dont have radius rods like x series falcons do. The sway bar on an Escort, IS the radius rod. So as soon as any work has to be done on the front end, the sway bar ends need to be pulled closer together (hence the 1600kg ratchet strap), because the ends are designed to be further apart than the holes in the control arms, which is how it manages to do such a good job of being both a sway bar and radius rod. It makes it harder that my sway bar is an aftermarket, 22mm Kmac sway bar. 
 

 
had to pull out the heavy artillery to undo the ends of the sway bar, so i could move the control arms around 
 

 

 
 
it seems that replacing the control arms has gotten rid of the steering wobble i had. they were definitely worn a little, but id never of thought they'd be whats causing the issue. i haven't driven it properly yet, but i have had it up to the speed where it would normally have the problem, and it didnt. so hopefully thats sorted. 
 
Tomorrow, is engine mount day. i have a fair bit of prep before i can put them in, so that will be a couple of days work to have it driving again from tomorrow. 

ok, so as i just mentioned above, i have the car home again to do the next round of work and upgrades on the car. 
 
Last week i ordered and received a heap of part from Burton Power in the UK. so so so much cheaper than getting the parts here in AUS. 
 
the list of parts:
GAZ rear shocks, adjustable
Steering rack mount rubbers 
gearbox mount
engine mounts (converting to Mk2/2L style which are stronger)
new brackets to run Mk2 engine mounts with 1300 engine. 
steering wheel boss kit 
 
i decided tonight to start on the rear shocks. took only about half hr to do both sides, and far out i am absolutely stoked with the improvement to how the car drives.  
 

 
old vs. new 
even on their softest setting, the new shocks are significantly stiffer than the old ones 
 

 
fair to say the old ones were well and truely stuffed. 
 

 
 

haha that was me. getting pissed off at the stupid traffic lol. 

I was bringing down to my house to do the next round of work/upgrades on it. Good timing on your part, i was just about to update the thread haha. 

Eski was looking good today mate, passed you on the way home from work around Heidelberg.
If not, you may have an impostor to deal with.

Flux capacitor?