steve mcqueen

If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI.
 
Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability)
 
If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast. 
 
 

pretty much anyone that posts anything here know's what they are talking about.. sometimes there's a slip up of misinformation .. put that down to... i forget what i was going to say... 

Bypass module fixes smartlock forever and ever. Don’t worry Dean, you’ll get used to technology

yep that's the spoiler! Am guessing your at Alfa Fiberglass?
I still have my spoiler under the house although it needs some minor repairs, that bar hated speed humps.
Here is a pic of my old Millenium
 

Hey this is not a millennium falcon front spoiler, its actually a Modern motor/ mobil special.
The big difference is the spotlight mount holes on the millennium the spotlights were mounted either side of the center duct and on the Modern motor /mobil special the spot lights were mounted within the center duct the same as this.
Both the millennium and moderm motor/mobil front spoilers bolt onto the original bumpers.
How do i know these details i had a second Millennium ute built by phase autos after the fluro red one

bottom end is almost done,just waiting for full gasket set coming tomozza,cause i cant go any further without putting the 1 piece rear seal in.turns very easy and nice,should have it 100 percent by tomorrow afo.

Cam comes up as a stocker Dynotec from Precision International. Pretty standard engine reco shop fitment

http://www.precisionintl.com.au/StockSearch.aspx?Search=CM250&Cat=29

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Get hold of a volt meter and test them.
 
With engine off:  Battery should show between 12 and 13 volts.
With engine running at idle:  Battery should show 13.8 volts
With engine running at 2000 rpm:  Battery should now show 14.2 volts.
 
If the voltage doesn't change during idle and rev up, then the alternator is shot.
If the voltage changes during running, then the alternator is ok, but if the battery still shows low when engine is off, then battery is shot.
 
Next step is take it to a battery shop or Supercheap and have the battery LOAD tested to confirm.

No Aussie V8s had cable. Only Fox mustangs had cable and V8.
 
With the Clevo bell, you'll need 64 tooth flywheel, clutch pivot, mechanical pedal and all linkages, mechanical fork (not hydraulic).

LOL...start reading.  

Flux capacitor?

Saw brambles red on a XC GXL from factory years ago. 
I had to respray the bonnet for the owner. 
3 different brambles red from my knowledge so make sure you get the
correct colour for your car. 

Saw brambles red on a XC GXL from factory years ago. 
I had to respray the bonnet for the owner. 
3 different brambles red from my knowledge so make sure you get the
correct colour for your car. 

Aeromotive SS pump...noisey but it works and is street and time proven on my car. I use a large 4 port Mallory return reg to cut PSI and a Aeroflow dead head reg to trim PSI. Obviously mine is set up for Webers hence the set up but as this pump has done many PCM events many trips down Heathcote and Calder with up to 11 laps in 1 night while @ 31 degree's c. Did Drag Challenge (1800plus km's in 5 days with 5 race meetings) and just the other week did the trip to Summernats came 2nd in the NAT ASP 6cyl class again and drove home. Best part is it costs $260. 
Ando and I actually have the runs on the board with decent HP carby xflows doing it our own way. Yes I could of used a Aeromotive dead head reg but as I actually do street my car ALOT I need cool cycled fuel.Yes I could use a different smaller pump to fed the webers 2.5PSI but what makes people think I didn't try it both ways and have them fail ? Nothing is on my car that wasn't put on as a improvement or necessity. If nothing else it can supply you ideas and options as our stuff is legit.

That faucet/solid state pump supplies 2.16l per minute and you only need 1.7l per minute to support 350HP. So you're not going to need 2 in parallel.
Don't worry about a return, and if your not running e85, stick with the factory fuel line. 
 
I think Gerg is onto something here, if your not after anything flashy then just KISS it. Keep It Simple Stupid.

G'day Michael a couple of things to point out:
 
• Holley blues are pretty noisy
 
• Would be overkill on your engine
 
• 3/8" line would be overkill too
 
• More plumbing for gauges, etc means more possible points of failure. I'd try and keep the whole thing as dumb and simple as possible.
 
My suggestion: run a solid-state pulse pump inline. If you think you need two, run them in parallel with tee fittings before and after. They are internally regulated at a set pressure and with several types available, you buy the one you want based on its rated pressure.
 
They need no return line, draw bugger-all amps, are compact, very quiet, and can be mounted in any direction. They cost about 60 bucks for a decent one.
 
You could hook it up to your oil pressure light via a changeover relay. No oil pressure = no fuel supply. If you want all that other stuff just for show, go right ahead and ignore what I just said. But it won't be cheap, that's for sure.

AU bonnet I did for a mate...all steel
 

This is mine
 

Don't drink it, or paint your weiner with it, and you'll be ok.

If you have an auto paint store nearby, you could get some touch up paint mixed to formula and use that to colour. Then use that 2k in a can to clear over it and polish till your happy

Here is a few more pics, original kms on the speedo, I believe I am the third owner since new. Was sold new at Allan Powell Ford in Bundaberg, which is about an hour from me. 
Interior code is G2, Paint 4.

 

 

 

 

Awesome write up bear, thanks for going to all that bother and uploading the results.
Im a G clamp man myself and find they do the job perfect. 

Hello Ford Freaks, just did the front pads on the big, white, land yacht.  Took some progress shots, thought it might help someone.
 

 
 
Mine are the ones on the left......

S packs i have had(at least 5) have been same height as stock, i don't recall springs being different unless on ESP
 
this was My ute with those springs.. short shocks are suggested

I have an old EL falcoon  with a dead fuel pump so every time i want to move it (just so i can mow the grass around it) i spray that cheap as 
export degreaser  straight down the throttle body whilst i sit in the engine bay and my wife drives it. 
Whilst doing this the engine revs up like it would normally so am able to select gear and move it.
 
Anyway....
 
I was thinking,,,, if you did this to and found you could rev the car up that would almost determin that the fuel pressure reg
is not working???
Im sure there is a simpler method of testing the fuel pressure reg but im just thinking out loud here.