SirkWhyXF

If anyones interested i found a product that should do the job perfect at clarke rubber. They call it "Sponge extrusion self adhesive blister 16x12mm" part no. 31633, was $11.95/m. I bought 1.8m, but 1.6 will do the job easy.
 
Here's the stuff
 

 
Trial fitted this piece this arvo and it fits perfect, the rib at the top seals on the underside of the bonnet like it was meant for it.
 
I'll put up a pic when i clean up the area and install it.

I did the same thing today. Fitted the extra adjuster and moved it over one hole. Works well now, plenty of adjustment left to tighten it up more if needed.
 
Remember there's still the other adjuster on the driver's side if you need it shorter. The handle did feel light but it seems good.

It's not the right way, and i still have to fix mine as i doubt it will hold on a steep hill, but i had the same issue with my sedan and i've at the moment got the adjustment part from the xf on the system too to get the extra length. It's a bit too long though, as the umbrella is very light. Still holds, though as i said i haven't tested it on any sort of substantial slope....

once its registered chris i just might  
 
yeah corner bumpers. i like being able to see the nostrils at the front below the number plate. 

Well, here we go again. 
 
A week ago, i had no intention of buying another Mk1 Escort any time soon. However, a mate of mine from when I had my last escort couldn't resist contacting me, and putting me onto this beautiful little 4 door Mk1 for sale way up in Kerang, about 3 hours north of Melbourne. 

I took a look at the photos, and promptly called the owner. I was pretty much sold there and then. 
 
So yesterday, Michael (my Escort informant), my good mate Callin and I set off from Sunbury at around 9am in Michael's VW Amarok (I'm glad we did...ill explain soon) to go look at this car, with cash in hand ready to drive this beauty home to Melbourne. 
 
The owner was a retired old guy, who collects some interesting and beautiful cars. He was very honest with his asking price, and very genuine. I somewhat feel like i might have ripped him off a little with the price, but it was well within his price range, and he was happy to accept. Even left his club plates for me to drive it home. 
 
now for the good (and bad) photos of our adventure. 
 
These next few pics are the photos the owner sent me. the car is totally original. 1975 (october) factory 4 speed 1300XL. Has 139,000km on the odometer, but the engine in it apparently has about half that. The original engine came with the car, which has been rebuilt as some stage, with non standard pistons...so some investigation needs to go into that, as it may end up being a stronger engine than the one thats in it...very weird. 
 

 
interior is MINT.
 

 

 
the previous owner had it for about 3.5 years, and only drove it a handful of times. 
 

 
 
 
SO i bought the car, and set off on the long journey home. during the test drove she drove like a dream. smooth, plenty of power and comfy...
 

 
we got 30 minutes from Kerang then this happened....
 
obviously the guy i bought it from never had a problem with the car because it only ever got driven around town, never on the HWY. so me attempting to drive it home, sitting on 90km/h was enough to sort out the bugs...like the distributor which was inevitably going to die..and leave me standard  

 
SO, we flat towed the car as far has Harcourt, where Michael's dad was nice enough to borrow a friends trailer, and meet us. we trailered it back to Michael's house, arriving back to Sunbury about 8pm last night. and thats where i left the car, on the trailer in Michael's driveway, along with 1 of his Mk1 4 door Escorts. 
 

 
A big thanks to Michael and Callin for the support and help yesterday, i would've been fucked if i had taken the xf or my daily to go collect it. thank fuck for Michael and his Rok. 
 
anyway, Michael is a legend, he is going to get it going for me (just needs a dizzy) at his house. 
 
Can not wait to start enjoying this beast  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Bah ha ha ha ha.........friction ??

Just give it a tug

If anyones interested i found a product that should do the job perfect at clarke rubber. They call it "Sponge extrusion self adhesive blister 16x12mm" part no. 31633, was $11.95/m. I bought 1.8m, but 1.6 will do the job easy.
 
Here's the stuff
 

 
Trial fitted this piece this arvo and it fits perfect, the rib at the top seals on the underside of the bonnet like it was meant for it.
 
I'll put up a pic when i clean up the area and install it.

That's what she said

Looks a bit short.....

If anyones interested i found a product that should do the job perfect at clarke rubber. They call it "Sponge extrusion self adhesive blister 16x12mm" part no. 31633, was $11.95/m. I bought 1.8m, but 1.6 will do the job easy.
 
Here's the stuff
 

 
Trial fitted this piece this arvo and it fits perfect, the rib at the top seals on the underside of the bonnet like it was meant for it.
 
I'll put up a pic when i clean up the area and install it.

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

Cheers Rod, i'll give it a go but i'm pretty sure i've already contacted him a while back.

I never put on Goldie, looks ok and is good for an extra 10 kilowatts at the back wheels with out it 
I think Nana still has her's but its all hard and cracked.
 
Once you remove the glue residue and give that part a bit of paint you'll be like "Hey, that looks good"
Wonder what Clark rubber have you could whack in there??

Sorry, I never read your original post.
You need to try and bleed the air out of the brakes. Grab a 10mm spanner and start at the furthest away from the master cylinder. Fill up the master cylinder, crack the nipple, make sure your comfy and watch. Don't pump the brakes, just watch. You will see the fluid slowly coming out and any air will come out as bubbles. This is called gravity bleeding. Even better, if you can get some clear hose that is a tight fit over the nipple, it will make it easier to see air bubbles.
Once done pump the pedal up, short pumps, don't do big long travel pumps as you can stuff the seals in the master cylinder going over crud. If it's back to normal you had air, if not your master cylinder has collapsed one of its systems - this is more likely than a system with no vacuum suddenly sucking in air while the car is stationary.
As for your weeping caliper, a more likely scenario is the flexible lines going porous, if so, replace all 3.
Good luck!
 
 
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If I change my name to rich, do I get the money that goes with it? Logically, I'd say yes because that would also explain why I seem to get shafted a lot. (think about.... Aaaand there it is)

How mint does the bump stop look, doesn't look like it's ever had to do its job lol

Bloody hell!
That's what I'd imagine the clearance would be like in the old jim hunter suspension off road racing ute!!
 
 
Edit :

 
 
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Around $30 for a new receiver drier.
Re-use the TX valve, unless its sticking - put it in the freezer to check.
 
O-rings are as follows -
 
Sanden TR compressors
Suction - OR9031 (Jayair part) OUNI104 (Adrad) (OD - 23.85mm, ID - 18.69, 2.58mm thick)
Discharge - OR9032 (Jayair part) OUNI105 (Adrad) (OD - 20.35mm, ID - 15.19mm, 2.58mm thick)
OR
TR90
- OR9852 (Jayair part) - square cut o-ring.
 
 
TX Valve -
x2 5/8 - (15.88mm)
x1 3/8 - (9.53mm)
x1 1/2 - (12.7mm)
 
TX valve flexible hose to hardline - (Pressure switch block) O-ring
x1 3/8 - (9.53mm)
 
Hardline to Receiver Drier
x1 3/8 - (9.53mm)
 
Hardline (with Schrader valve) to Condenser core
x1 1/2 - (12.7mm)
 
Drier, to Condenser core
x1 3/8 - (9.53mm)

Wheel turned and hitting driveway at angle -perfect combination for a tyre and guard bash. Spend most of time remembering to hit driveways either straight on or having wheel straight then turn once into driveway. Or once and once only bellied the car  . Not the kids or wife said one thing it was complete silence other than the faint whimpering and the word 'FUCK' from me.

Il have to take a pic of mine before it gets lowered.... I'm picking il need a wide angle lense to capture the bump stop clearance.

Hey dude, they are pretty easy to fit and setup, they're bolted in with 2 bolts at the front and 2 at the back, the factory shifter hole simply gets plated over and sealed. A larger hole in front of the shifter where the cable goes through will need to be drilled and a grommet fitted to seal the cable.
 
Pic from driver side: (the only thing really visible from this side is the wiring for the shiter light)
 

 
Pic from passenger side: (as part of hiding the engine bay wiring i deleted the ugly wiring that goes across the firewall and to the gearbox, these were pulled back into the cabin and run directly to the gearbox under the carpet, wiring for reverse lights and neutral safety switch are on this side, you can also see the wiring that goes through the floor to the speedo sender. What you can't really see is the cable running through the floor in front of the shifter.)
 

 
Here if you look closely you can see where the cable comes through the floor, it runs around in a loop, goes through a bracket (supplied) bolted to the side of the 'box, and to the selector lever (also supplied).
To fit this you put the 'box in reverse, spin the connector (red) up the threaded rod until it lines up with the selector lever, poke it through and put a washer and splitpin through the other side (i also fitted a nut).
Easier than having a shit.
 

El is probably the better option . I don't understand why they went to coil pack on ef then changed back to dizzy for el and then back to coil pack for au . Stupid ford

Why dont you use an FM modulator to feed the signal from your blue tooth, ipad or what ever to your premium stereo.

I seriously can't wait to see them on your XD
 
 
 

 
And i can't stop looking at these now, i'd love a set of those in 8s & 10s!