eattsie9

lucky that's not the one I'm using i guess

see that riveted ring gear..(pic below) 
i've heard a car with them so loose the rattle would make you swear the flywheel was going to fall off.. was one of the first things i sold when i started selling Xseries parts back when i wrecked one for parts for the daily
 

Bolts line up on on ba flex plate to my converter and atleast visually when stacked on-top of each other ba and xf flex plate appear to be same size and same tooth count (I can't be bothered counting) think I'll slap it in when the time comes and see what happens

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

just a thought  maybe you could get the bolts from Mandurah bolt supplies as you know what size ect  

Cheers.

Been doing a bit more digging looks like b series use the same size bolt as well. Anyone know if a b series flex plate would fit as well? Might increase my chances of getting a flex plate and bolts from a near by wrecker that mostly does b and f series Falcons. Thank you

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Looks like the bolts from an E series 6cyl are what is needed would that be correct? Would an E series flex plate be the go as well?

Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Imperial or big is 7/16th unf from memory

M10x1.25

Hey All
 
So my old engine is an 84DA block new one is 86DA. Discovered last night they use a different flexplate bolt (common knowledge to most I'm sure but I'm a bit slow)
 
Does anybody know what bolt the 86DA crank uses for the flexplate? Or better yet an ARP part number?
 
Will I need a new flex plate to suit the different crank? I would assume with the 86DA bolts being smaller the bolt holes on my original flexplate would be too big, is this an issue?
 
Any info will be greatly appreciated.
 
Cheers
 
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
 

Going to beat everyone in to it, make sure it’s a standard volume oil pump not high volume !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the hot air intake hose... you can buy aftermarket replacements, from memory.
 
Crossflows with triple weber carby's, sound very close to the triple weber Hemi 6's.
Here's a few youtube video's -
 
 
 
 

Pics or it never happened

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7027-ford-registered-technician-bulletin-eec-iv-xf/%5B/
 
That link will include some information on the TFI dizzy, which was only used in the XF EFI. XE EFI used a normal vac dizzy.
 
 

that's my photo from many years ago.. taken with a real camera(no phone built in)
 

@deankdx choice! I knew i had found it on either here or xfalcon, couldn't remember much else.

I'm running max stiff in the rear.  (Only have koni in rear)
It depends on what you want, street strip or drag. You generally want rebound to be firmer then compression. But this also depends on spring rate. 
Also how high is the car and how far from the bump stops. 
I use a stiff shock in the rear to stop my tail shaft slapping the tunnel. And for track.

Straight out of the box setting here.
I thought the rebound adjustment was just to account for wear mainly?

I did mine so it felt roughly the same pulling it out as pushing it in (that's what she said) ie: 50/50 rate

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Cheers

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

i can give you a brief description..
 
TFI has a TFI module on the side..(no vac advance thingy)
EST has nothing on the side (no vac advance thingy)
electronic one has a squarish box with 2 screws in the top and a chip inside.. 4 wires onto the chip.. has vac advance and inside has 6 pointy doover thingys that almost touch other whatsits. 
points(XD iron head and prior had them, thicker shaft so it can't fit later blocks.. has vac advance also but points inside

if i find pics before i forget i'll post again

Great idea I'll give that a go thanks alot.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

What you gunna put them in..............XF ?
 
Console ?
In dash ?
A-pillar ?
 
I usually like water temp, oil pressure, voltmeter and a Tacho, as a bare minimum. Regulations are different in some states, fuel pressure must be out side the cabin in SA, but, very handy if you have a heavy right foot. Trans temp too, if you have an auto.
 
 
 

i've always gone with the stock sports dash clusters because not a racecar. 
the XF i had was different though, because the s pack cluster were very prone to issues (bad solder joints and tarnish on connections)  i ended up adapting an XG cluster to mine, definitely wasn't easy to do. 

yeah, what do you want to do? and what car? 
do you like the A pillar guages? and the monster tacho on the column covering the fuel or temp guage? (first thing i'd remove if i got a car like that) 
ripping the ash tray out of the console and fitting 3 guages there is neat, volts guage i particularly use.. if it's always on 13 ish(less with lights on etc) and suddenly its down to 12 or less you look at the temp guage and open the bonnet see if the belt is still connected etc.
 
other guages i like are oil pressure (because the oil pressure switch for the standard light has fucked up twice, leaks huge amounts of oil out, could kill an engine... and light didn't come on)
if you have plenty of money the AFR gauge is handy to see if the engine is running lean or rich.. (can do this on a dyno for cheaper probably and car will be tuned to its potential) 

I used 4mm twin core wire,