Slow250XC

These are what i used with mine.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-2
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-15380-1

These are what i used with mine.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-2
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-15380-1

I'm about to embark on my own little project on my V8 wagon, involving an Isuzu exhaust brake switching off one of the dualies and diverting that side through the crossover, creating a single system.
 
The exhaust brake is vacuum type, so high vacuum (cruise/idle) shuts it off, low vacuum opens it (under power). I will valve it so that it opens quickly but delays shutting for 5 or 10 seconds to prevent it working on every gear change.
 
Also a bleed-off will manually keep it open all the time when switched. The extra vacuum bleed will give it a sick lumpy cam.
 
Watch this space...
 
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The crank looks ok nothing a quick linish wont bring up note 84da used larger bolts yet still has 1 piece rear seal


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Starting on the new head next week. Testing has shown him what he wanted to see and plan for. 
Black top dyno showed it made "real hp" even though it lacked epic cfm figures last time so this time will be no different im sure.

'There is currently no broken lifters', definately had one at some stage lol

Correct. I sent a 2.5mm drill right through, at an angle so the grease comes out closer towards the halfway point. Then drilled a shallow 5mm hole in the outer sleeve to take the 6mm tap. I greased all 4 bushes to ensure that grease comes out from between the inner sleeve and the bush, and it does.

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'There is currently no broken lifters', definately had one at some stage lol

If all else fails i have seen several siezed engines freed up by pouring coke into the cylinders. Works a treat.

If all else fails i have seen several siezed engines freed up by pouring coke into the cylinders. Works a treat.

I'm running https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-box-oil-30  .... not sure why people run such heavy oils these days, that's like from the 60's, just run this and change it every few years, it's like 20W-60W which is ok, just give it some time to warm up and it will quiet as it warms up, I like it
some of the 90W oil is just fucking stupid, if you'd be drag racing it I'd probably just run ATF and change it every few months 

Good gains. Might be his second only x flow head but clearly he is no amateur. At the end of the day they are all just ports and require similar things. If you have a flow bench, time on your hands, some skill and a customer willing to pay for that time - well you will get results. 
Looking forward to seeing how it goes on the car. 

And then?

If your 91 is as good as the stuff we get over here then go for the 96. I have a specific gravity fuel tester and I can tell you some of the stuff is crazy bad. Not what you need if your pushing the envelope 

Mobil 98 is the best here in NZ. All i use in my coon and my boat.
Makes starting a breeze too, always a bonus when on the water.
You won't go wrong with Kelfords

Mobil 98 is the best here in NZ. All i use in my coon and my boat.
Makes starting a breeze too, always a bonus when on the water.
You won't go wrong with Kelfords

Well finally that Walbro fuel pump arrived today with the mounting kit, so now it’s time to start working on the car.

Back at the flow bench this arvo with the cylinder head for HADES, the dedicated e85, 4 barrel customer engine I'm building. Pleasing results and will be a great match for the Aussiespeed 4 barrel manifold. Should make some solid numbers.

if you ask anyone ... they'll tell you to use 96 fuel.. or better. (plus octane booster even)
you can get far more timing in, and compression ratio for better power for essentially free(doubt the fuel used per year difference would be justifyable at all) 

Fantastic offer Crazy2287, really appreciate it, but I don't have anything ordered.  Enjoy your vacation!  I'm chatting with Kelford Cams in Christchurch right now and looks like he has something similar to the Crow speedway cams so I will see if that might be a solution.  Although I think I will be looking for an aussiespeed manifold in the nearish future.
To answer the older question, octane ratings here are 91 and 96.  I'd like to use 91 for cost, but in all reality, petrol is the cheapest thing about jetboating   I imagine the same thing is true for speedway.
 

Flying into Queenstown on wednesday next week. If you get a cam before then I can bring it over for ya.

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

Having been through cam selection and what not with my own kiwi xflow i can say that camtech in aus were great to deal with but import tax etc kills them.
I have used a few cams from Kelfords over the years with good results (old starlets and corollas) and am on my second cam from them in my xflow.
I recommend emailing kiel@kelfordcams.com and letting him know what your up to. Bloody good bugger and real helpful.
I have the old towing/lpg torque cam in the shed, might be a bit weak for your needs though.
Good luck with it, most engine shops look at you like you got the pox when you want to spend money on a crossie haha.

I've scoured our forum looking for a thread on the topic and couldn't find any, so I thought I'd start one.
 
I pulled the hat off the one kindly donated to me by Ando76 and found a bit of a surprise inside. After sitting around my yard for a while plus however long before, it's got some terminal corrosion on the gears. This is quite a setback as the thing seemed to turn OK when I received it. I was only counting on a fresh pinion seal and maybe axle bearings/seals and away I go. It's very sludgy inside, carrier bearings were locked up which made it difficult to remove the axle flange bolts: you can't turn the axles so you can't line up the little window to put a socket through with a rattle gun. All this festiness could just be from sitting collecting moisture in the last year or so.
 
After pulling it down further, I split the centre and found some shims behind the cones, not uncommon but these were quite worn and heat-affected. It could have been setup tight for speedway use so I'll be checking the pre-load and spider mesh on it on assembly. The cones seem OK, bit of corrosion inside the taper where they sit but I think are salvageable. Being a 28-spline unit, the axles and centre are worth hanging on to, but i'm fraid the rest is toast. The calipers, discs, gears, bearings are all too far gone.
 
The brakes seem to be an early disc setup (from say an XC) with vented discs/iron calipers. The axle flanges have a different shape to my current arrangement and are possibly incompatible with my non-vented, alloy caliper type from an XF ute.
 
So my plan is to:
 
* Source some early 2.92 gears
* Strip my housing with the 3.27/open/25 splines
* Use that housing with the 2.92/LSD/28 splines
* Install new bearings and seals throughout.
 
Early gears refers to the size of the ring gear bolts: from what I've read, early one had 3/8" LH thread Vs later 7/16" (possibly XD-onwards?). I have the diff in the coupe with 2.92s so I could strip that out. First I might see what a diff shop charges or an old set, might be easier that way.
 
Some pics so far:
 
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Lol. Trippa.
Sounds like a slipping trans belt.
Pity Im not closer with code reader.... can diagnose auto box with it... see if it throws up a code.

Bloody cars I tell ya! Hehe.
I got no spare room to save you from the war office...... only flowers, dinner and dancing can do that..... hahaha.

Best of luck mate.
Ol auto is in blue xg ute.... I never tried it ( never ran) . It is 50/50 if its ok still... but ute had blown head... so might be fine.
Yours if ya get stuck.

Jack.

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