XFChris

Yeah, I reworked a dash recently also. I'd say 20% of the solder joints needed re working.
Inspect them with a 5x or 10x magnifying glass and a bright light. Before you solder make sure the area ia clean, if not, wipe with a brush or cloth/tissue (like that super cheap toilet paper that kinda halfway between ricepaper and copypaper, or a "kimwipe") and pure ethanol, acetone or for best results use isopropanol.
and add a dab of solder flux/resin to the joint before heating and re flowing it.
That will give you the best reflow possible without having to add and remove the solder.

you can have a look in this thread on xfalcon. but its probably cracked solder joints like i fixed .. copied this from my post there. http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/24537-arrrggghhh-need-help-with-my-dash/
 
 
fixed the flickering cluster brightness too which was what i was expecting.
i pulled the cluster completly to bits, inserted some dust into it Do'h too lol.
but it was a cracked solder joint on the small circuit board where that cluster dimmer button is. resoldered. FIXED.
i also cleaned the old dust off the LED screens too, and they are much nicer now.
heres a pic of the spot of where it was re soldered.

Both the mixer and converter had worn diapghrams,and needed fixing up, that's what I was told.

Both the mixer and converter had worn diapghrams,and needed fixing up, that's what I was told.

gas research on efi manifold..


impco 225 with hot air intake...(could run a longer tube and mount air filter in front of the radiator or other side of engine like the turbo setup)



impco 225 (with turbo) on efi manifold

 
impco 425(with hat and turbo on 4 barrel manifold)

 

425 is made to be mounted to a Holley 4 barrel baseplate, but you'll need a 4 barrel manifold to go with it. A 200 is easily mounted to a EFI manifold, since the inlet and outlet are at 90 degrees. WIth a 225, the inlets and outlets are inline, so unless you can fit an elbow between the mixer and shock tower, you'll run into packaging issues.
 
I'd say fit the manual gearbox first, then think about diff gears. Check whats in it now, then aim for a 3.23 or 3.27 diff.

425 would be My choice, on the efi manifold should be good , 225 would be an improvement over the 200, they shouldnt use more gas if tuned right.
My XG XR6 has a impco 200 on it.. goes well, but i bet its restricted.. i have an impco 425 to fit one day.. and a 225 .. but it works(so don't touch it?)

200 is way too small for your needs. That size would be suited to a dead stock 250 at best, but ideally a light commercial under 3 litres. I'd be looking upwards of a 300 to get any kind of performance out of your setup. If you can stretch to a GRA mixer to use with the EFI manifold, that would be the easiest solution, not necessarily the best though. The EFI runners would choke the engine at higher RPMs. Remember gas takes up 20% more volume in the inlet compared to air alone. Otherwise a 4-barrel carby manifold with a 425 would be more than adequate.

Apply a drop of Loctite blue, and Re torque the bolts. Then put on some more lock wire. Doesn't matter what type, just as long as it fits in the holes in the bolt heads. The Loctite and torque setting should hold everything. It's just an added safety mechanism.

 
Twist the 2 ends together with pliers, and cut off the excess. 

 
Shove the snowie back on, and gently pump the brake pedal, to allow the pistons to settle against the rotor.

 
Test drive..!!
 
20 - 30 slow and easy applications of the brake, to bed them in.
 
I'll be getting the mobile disc machining guys out, soon. The disc pad backing plate has scored the rotor, on the back of the passenger side.
Need to get to work on the morrow.....
 
Have fun, enjoy working on your Ford. They dont make them like that anymore.  
 
Bear.

I got an RRS setup , works so nice on the track, 1st time i took it out i'm like Yeeees nice !!!!!
 
A mate has the Vikings in a ZG Fairlane . Ride is excellent , would be fine for a driver . He does a lot of miles .

Thanks Valvebouncer. I gravity bled the brakes yesterday, and the brakes feel significantly better now, it's made the car driveable again. 

Sorry, I never read your original post.
You need to try and bleed the air out of the brakes. Grab a 10mm spanner and start at the furthest away from the master cylinder. Fill up the master cylinder, crack the nipple, make sure your comfy and watch. Don't pump the brakes, just watch. You will see the fluid slowly coming out and any air will come out as bubbles. This is called gravity bleeding. Even better, if you can get some clear hose that is a tight fit over the nipple, it will make it easier to see air bubbles.
Once done pump the pedal up, short pumps, don't do big long travel pumps as you can stuff the seals in the master cylinder going over crud. If it's back to normal you had air, if not your master cylinder has collapsed one of its systems - this is more likely than a system with no vacuum suddenly sucking in air while the car is stationary.
As for your weeping caliper, a more likely scenario is the flexible lines going porous, if so, replace all 3.
Good luck!
 
 
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That's exactly why I bought it mate
 
 
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You thinking of making it a work truck?

Could be a good way to earn a bit of coin, while getting to drive around a massive V8 truck 

You thinking of making it a work truck?

Could be a good way to earn a bit of coin, while getting to drive around a massive V8 truck 

Yeah Ando I agree, new spares are absolute rubbish these days, quality control is non-existent. They don't care if it breaks after 5 minutes, and getting your money back is a massive fuckaround with postage, etc.
 
At least OEM parts had to last as long as the rest of the car, so are 1000% better in quality.
 
I'd grab an old school 85A one, throw a $30 reg/brushes at it, $10 bearings (good Timken ones) big pulley like what sly said, freshen up the brush rings with a cordless drill and some 1000 grit, will love you long time. If you're getting really excited you could get the casing sandblasted/clear-coated to get it looking brand-spankers.
 
Make sure your lead coming off the output to the battery is decent, like small starter cable. I had to run a second one on mine recently as I measured 0.6V drop when running, enough to not charge the battery properly.
 
Another plus: you'll have a nice big "MADE IN AUSTRALIA" cast into it too, you can look at that with pride every time you pop the hood.

I would not buy anything 'new' Bosch. We have had a terrible run with them. I seized 2 brand new ones in a row and Brenton's brand new supplied by OEX starter last 1 meeting and then refused to start again. Gave him an 'old' Bosch second hand unit off a wreck and it worked perfectly.
I wouldn't have thought it was so hard but obviously down there everyone has moved onto late model stuff and know one keeps old stuff. I have a pile of 'old' BOSCH alternators at work bud. If you want I'll sort thru and find a big amp one and get Craig to check it out or service it for you if you like.
Steer well clear of that new stuff. It only brings trouble.

I'm using an e-series 109?amp. Cant remember how many wires it uses but it charges my boot battery perfectly. All I did was changed the serpentine pully for a stock XE pully. It's practically a direct bolt on, you may have to space it backwards or forwards depending on positioning. You can see in this picture the ungraded alt in stock location.[/url]

Was keen to see one of these kits fitted. I bagged my xf ute using a used kit out of a hilux.
I looked at mounting it where the bump stop is but then I couldn't go as low as I wanted. I sat the bags on the springs just behind the diff, probably not the best spot to fit them but mehhh.

Also fitted a tank and pump

Reserve capacity don't do much for starting, once the car is started then alternator takes over. Reserve capacity is good if you run accessories without the motor running. I got about 120amp/hour in my boat and i can pretty much listen to music, and troll for half day and it will still start the boat.
 
With the corrosion, just use really hot water and the bluish shit will just rinse off, so goes for the white crap. Then take the terminals off and some more boiling water then use some petroleum jelly smeared on it then put it back. That worked ok for me in the past and never had issues.

Found this on youtube today, i see a lot of people crimping incorrectly at work, so i thought for anyone doing their own work at home, might be an idea
 
Simple and informative, and the basic rules go for all crimping.
ALWAYS crimp the copper first and the sheathing second.
 

 

But stick a trailer on it and see what happens and how much fuel it uses

1 thing a V8 will do better then a 6 is pull. it will also be better on fuel doing it. V8s have low end grunt and that is why people that tow stuff use V8s or turbo diesels cause they have good flat lowend torque

Its funny the 6 is faster could it be cause its 300kg lighter, geared shorter, and revs a 1000rpm harder nar that cant be it

Injected V8s are shit on fuel over a 6? LOL beacon didn't we drive your lane to the summernats on 1 tank? show me a 6cyl that will do any better im keen to see it
 
 

Started work on the chamber of the MSC head. The chambers had already had a little touch but I need a few more cc's to lower the compression to around 10.5.
 
What better way than to make a THOR clone. THOR runs the numbers on the bench so I copied the chamber and started on laying back the inlet and exhaust swirls. I will leave one chamber as is and if time permits I will take it to the flowbench to do a before and after test.
 
THOR is on the bottom and the MSC on top. The MSC will need facing as it has a bit of damage from when it was used on the burnout car. This will reduce the cc's a bit but it is necessary.
 
Now that the oil pump is done I can modify a pickup and do a bit more work on the sump and then I can zip up the short motor. Small steps often.

Burnout comp. got postponed due to rain.  Bit of a bummer but gave me some unexpected time, so off to the shed I went for a bit of work on the Mad Scientist Crossflow (MSC).  Got the cam dialled in;
 

 
DOT to DOT the cam was 4 degrees advanced. This highlights to me the need to dial each and every camshaft in. It allows you to know exactly where the camshaft is and then make a decision as to where you want to run the cam. The cam notes from CROW show that this camshaft should make power between 2600 &5500. So at DOT to DOT, this would have shifted the power range down to approximately 2200-5100.
 
Now if that is what you wanted, DOT to DOT would be cool, but if you bought the camshaft to run in the 2600-5500 zone it would not be ideal. I decided that I would not mind the power coming on a bit earlier than 2600 so I installed the cam with 2 degrees advance. This meant putting the bottom gear at the 2 degrees retarded position to achieve that.
 
After that it was just a matter of pulling the camshaft out and giving the lobes a good coat of assembly lube, slip it back in and Loctite the thrust plate and camshaft retaining bolts. I've always done this cause I have seen them come loose. Mainly on engines that run straight cut gears but also on others. Also checked cam chain deflection as the cam gear and chain I am using did a season on the race car.
 

 
If you look closely you can see the white dot between the two gears. turn the engine clockwise so that the left side chain goes tight. measure the distance between the dot and the chain and write it down. Now turn the engine anti clockwise about half a turn to release the tension on the left side of the chain. Now grab the chain on the left side and pull it out towards the DOT. Measure the distance and write down the measurement. subtract that from your first measurement and that is you cam chain deflection. 13mm is limit. This chain was at 6mm so I should be good for a while in this motor.
 
Cleaned up the rest of the pistons, fitted the new rings and then slipped them into bed. Checked all the big end clearances and they are all fine at around the 1.5-2 thou region. perfect for a rev.
 

 

 
I will do an oil pump for the MSC this week and clean up a timing chain cover so that I can zip up the bottom end.
 
I re-did the deck height with the aid of the dial indicator and actual deck height is .038 so comp is down to 10.8. I'll still take a fraction out of the chamber, just because. Should be all together this time next week. I will say that the camshaft showed signs of wear (down on peak lift) but to hell with it - I'm using it because I have it and I'm sick of it lying around.

That's a complex converter, simple mixer setup. Opposite to impco setups .
 
I have the same converter as you, omvl r90e. I have seen rebuild kits for them .
 
sadly, I don't know enough about lpg to help with your issue