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Not a very exciting update but here you go.

 

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Settled on an alternator for THOR. nice compact unit, only weighs 2.8kg (yes I'm that anal about front weight) and puts out 40amps. Now before you have a heart attack, it's a race car not a street car and the alternator is just there to help out. I will be making sure that the battery is fully charged before a meeting and during.

 

The way is see it the alternator will only really be throwing big digger thingys in after initial start up and probably on the return road. Remember methanol so fans will hardly come on. Current draw will be limited to the pumps (staged), CDI and trans cooler.

I could in fact run the car without an alternator but at shows where you get to cruise it wou,d be nice not to have any worries.

 

Now to make a nice light alloy alt bracket

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*Has a heart attack*

 

That's Bonkers, Between 10-15a at the coils, 5a to the ecu and injectors (they are low z right?) 15a on the fuel pump and 7A on the water pump that lil alternators going to get quite a surprise!

Just keep an eye on your voltage, If it's dropping below 12.4v your reducing your spark, fuel delivery and increasing injector dead time. The ECU should account for this but it could make tuning interesting and reduce possible power if your running at the limit... Yeah i dunno. Good luck? Interesting to see how it holds up in practice!

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Yeah. Crazy it will be on the limit when the water pump and thermo engages. But that's the beauty of alcohol. This thing will struggle to get water temp in it. They may engage after the burnout, hard to say. I don't imagine them coming on when the thing has 110+ mph passing over the alloy radiator. On the return road and the crawl back to the pits, yep for sure. The one gauge can log volts so I'll be able to monitor what's going on.

 

Basically I wanted just enough to look after the pumps, injectors, CDI, coils etc. and no more. Despite it being a drag car I plan on running a very big battery to compensate. I have no problem carrying the extra weight cause it will be where it needs to be for chassis balance - think counter balance 100kg of vanilla gorilla. One thing I have learned from speedway and most recently in helping clarkey out with his blown XY, is the importance of weight jacking and chassis balance. I've shaved 4 tenths off clarkey's ET and gained 6mph all through set up. No motor just set up.

 

That's the reason for the small alternator, reduce front right weight. It's just a theory based on semi sound math. If it doesn't work I'll make a tailshaft driven 90amp alternator. Lol. They actually use to do a race version of this small alt which throws out 90amp but not available anymore and those with stock have a decent price tag on them. MSD also do a mini chev alt. All are options.

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Yeah. Crazy it will be on the limit when the water pump and thermo engages. But that's the beauty of alcohol. This thing will struggle to get water temp in it. They may engage after the burnout, hard to say. I don't imagine them coming on when the thing has 110+ mph passing over the alloy radiator. On the return road and the crawl back to the pits, yep for sure. The one gauge can log volts so I'll be able to monitor what's going on.

 

Basically I wanted just enough to look after the pumps, injectors, CDI, coils etc. and no more. Despite it being a drag car I plan on running a very big battery to compensate. I have no problem carrying the extra weight cause it will be where it needs to be for chassis balance - think counter balance 100kg of vanilla gorilla. One thing I have learned from speedway and most recently in helping clarkey out with his blown XY, is the importance of weight jacking and chassis balance. I've shaved 4 tenths off clarkey's ET and gained 6mph all through set up. No motor just set up.

 

That's the reason for the small alternator, reduce front right weight. It's just a theory based on semi sound math. If it doesn't work I'll make a tailshaft driven 90amp alternator. Lol. They actually use to do a race version of this small alt which throws out 90amp but not available anymore and those with stock have a decent price tag on them. MSD also do a mini chev alt. All are options.

 

 

on meth/alch you just don't run fans at the strip, just water pump, lights, fuel pump and ignition/ecu ... hardly 30 Amps

i would fuck off the alternator and go 16V if it's a pure strip machine, fuck weight, 3-5kg 16V battery or two and a charger for in-between runs, gets rid of a lot of complexities 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/brl-b169lc/overview/

That is a nice combo, 950 amps (crank) and 4.5KG comes with charger and you can mount the thing anywhere 

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Maybe not in Brisbane the fans wouldn't run, but it gets bloody hot up here and I reckon they might need to come on. Besides I'd like to do a powercruise style event, and the odd skid comp so I sorta need some form of changing.

 

I really just need to find some time to get back onto it. I did get all the fuel hose and fittings the other day. I'll lay it all out and take a photo next week.

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Time for an update. I went and bought a UPC TC-TD corty front brake upgrade kit. It got it second hand, new never used, off a FB site. The seller was honest and said that he had heard bad things about how the kits fitted and hence he was selling it and buying a wilwood kit. I got it for less than half price delivered so I thought I'd take the risk.

 

I did a bit of research and most of the fitment problems seemed to relate to the TE-TF kits so I was prepared to give it a go. Well it turns out that what people were saying on the forums was true. The inner bearings and seals were incorrect size, but WAY more concerning was the fact that the kit was supplied with the incorrect thread pitch on the caliper mounting bolts.

 

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The silver bolts came with the kit and the black ones are the correct ones for the caliper

 

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Bit hard to see in the photo but you can see that the thread pitch of the black bolts is correct

 

Sort of explains why people have trouble with the kits and stories off calipers falling off due to bolts pulling threads out are true. Thing is there is powder form loctite in the caliper so the unskilled would just think it's the loctite causing the binding and wind the supplied bolts in.

 

By all accounts raising any concerns with the company is a waste of oxygen so I'm not going to bother. I'll see how they go. Just as many people say they work as those that say they don't so I guess it's a case of suck and see. Seems the TC-TD boys are happy, but TE-TF not so.

 

Anyway after getting the right inner bearings and seals and the correct caliper bolts and some spring washers and shortening the bolts by 4 threads, I got the drivers side done. Well 90% done. Turns out the hubs haven't been machined enough to take a stock dust cap, so I'll pull it all off and chuck it in the lathe and shave a whisker off so the dust cap fits.

 

Man if I had paid full sticker price for the kit, I would be filthy.

 

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As you can see I've decided to run Globes on the corty. Sort of period correct and I love the look. Might not be everyone's cup of tea, but with the paint scheme I'm looking at I reckon they will look cool.

 

Especially with the big 15x8's and ET Street on the back.

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I have the same kit on my Te. I got them pretty cheap an off ebay auction. I had fitting problems but not as much as others. My caliper bolts where correct and have a allen key head( still need washers). I had problems with the caliper bracket hitting the stub slightly and the disc hitting the lower ball joint bracket. Easily fixed with a good file.

I regret getting the kit as I enquired about an engineers report for a engine swap and they stated no ebay(machined down caliper) kits.

They do work rather well but I also have rear disc and falcon master.

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As you can see I've decided to run Globes on the corty. Sort of period correct and I love the look. Might not be everyone's cup of tea, but with the paint scheme I'm looking at I reckon they will look cool.

Especially with the big 15x8's and ET Street on the back.

The bolts issue was it the good old 1/2 unc/bsw mix up

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Those brake kits suck ass never heard a good report about themSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes yes they do, I would not recommend them to anyone with a road going car. I have no issue using it for my purpose, especially considering I will have r31 rear disc calipers, but in a road going application where rego, insurance and engineering are all required, I would give them a big miss.

 

The thread pitch issue was 12mm 1.5 (required) as opposed to 12, 1.75 supplied.

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Anyway, enough of the bad brake kit, onto some good bits. The above is a pile of fittings and most of the hose that will make up THOR's fuel system.

 

I love AN fittings and this proflow stuff is great quality and way cheaper than the other brands. Can't wait to start building this killer fuel system.

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Ok cool, Lucky this isn't your car then. I've used them for some time and I have no problem with the quality or finish of their product. Damage like that in the pictures could easily be caused by incorrect assembly.

 

I buy mine through my local PIRTEK dealer and I have had zero issues. Like anything man made there will be failures. Especially if the end user screws up assembly, then blaims the product. But to date I've not had a failure on any of their fittings or their other products.

 

Each to their own.

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I've sourced all my fittings by just typing "JIC" into ebay. Had stuff from aus, china, hong kong, USA and Britain. Am yet to have any major complaint with any of it. It is typically made from a soft ally, your not actually meant to use metal tools on it as it will damage the fittings.
I made my whole system by converting everything to 37º 3/8th flares and dash 6. one thing, the ally jic dose not like sealing against stainless hardline, So takes a bit of care when making the flares to get a good seal.

 

But that's enough of that, Enjoy screwing it together!, As much as it costs, and as much as it is overkill for a pressure system operating at <100psi, It is pretty fun screwing them fittings together. Something about it just feels good. Looks mint too.

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Funny thing is mate the Aeroflow rep bags speed flow, speed flow bag Russell and around and around it goes. At the end of the day the consumer has the choice. As an end user of the PROFLOW stuff I've got direct from PIRTEK, I have not had an issue on my stuff or the customer cars I've used it on. One thing I will say is I no longer buy PROFLOW stuff off eBay. In my experience e bay seems to be the dumping ground for factory seconds of most brands.

 

Yeah Crazy there is something nice about the overkill of them and screwing them together. As most of my stuff is used in racing or competition motor sport the ease of disconnect and re-connect is a big thing. It makes servicing race cars and the like really pain free. Add to that the fact that you know your not going to have leaks or busted hose clamp dramas and it's a no brainer.

 

Oh and I'll post a picture up tonight that should make you happy.

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